Farecla??

Profpriv · Apr 15th, 2010, 22:06

Is it suitable for the metallic type paint finish and the lacquer??

Shaun(profpriv)

oman5 · Apr 15th, 2010, 22:13

I'm by no means an expert, but I've used it on my car with no ill effects, its one of the best you can buy in my opinion

rallyman · Apr 15th, 2010, 22:26

absolutely. Its a compound in various grades for all top coats. Your metalic is basically a clear coat (laquer) over a cellulose formerly, or water based flat paint latterly. The base coat is your colour whereas in a solid colour, imagine the top coat is a laquer with a colour pigment in it.
Farecla was orig produced for a mop (industrial polishing machine) When i do a top quality job, i always finish by mopping the surface to take any small imperfections out. For this i would use a 1500 grade wet or dry (used wet with soap) to flat the surface, then polish back with G7 on the mop.
They also make G3 which will do the same job by hand and a G10 for perfect fine finish but always put a decent polish on top of any compounded surface to protect it. Carnuba wax is probably the best you can get but it has to be done a sq mtre at a time.
anyone wants to PM me on bodywork issues feel free.
Nick

Profpriv · Apr 16th, 2010, 13:47

Is it like a T cut or similar cutting compound?

As soon as you start talking about wet and dry im a dit concerned.I rather like the shiny surface on my Volvo!!

Shaun(profpriv)

rallyman · Apr 16th, 2010, 14:04

Put the wet and dry down immediately!!!!!!!!!!!
The only resemblence to T cut is that it is indeed a rubbing compound. When i talk of wet and dry, that is for new paintwork as a de-nibber (small particles of airborn dust) not original but having said that, it will with a mop take all the scratches out if you flat the surface but i wouldnt reccomend you try or need to do so. So, on original paintwork, simply apply G3 in small circular motions with a wet muslin cloth, do the whole panel, then, unlike T cut which has a greasy residue, just wash off with clean water and wax. Simples

Profpriv · Apr 16th, 2010, 14:52

Thanks Rallyman

Where would I look for it??A specialist auto body shop??

Is there anything else I need?

Shaun

rallyman · Apr 16th, 2010, 23:12

Shaun
most self respecting car paint suppliers should be able to get it if not stock it. whilst there, get a roll of polishing cloth. the only thing you will then need is a bit of time and some dark glasses

ps. ive a feeling a large Half ford may stock it.
Any further info
always willing
Nick

Apr 15th, 2010, 22:06	#1
Profpriv I've Been Banned Last Online: Jun 15th, 2015 21:48 Join Date: May 2009 Location: BURGESS HILL	Farecla?? Is it suitable for the metallic type paint finish and the lacquer?? Shaun(profpriv)

Apr 16th, 2010, 13:47	#4
Profpriv I've Been Banned Last Online: Jun 15th, 2015 21:48 Join Date: May 2009 Location: BURGESS HILL	Farecla Is it like a T cut or similar cutting compound? As soon as you start talking about wet and dry im a dit concerned.I rather like the shiny surface on my Volvo!! Shaun(profpriv)

Apr 15th, 2010, 22:13	#2
oman5 Senior Member Last Online: Oct 23rd, 2022 03:06 Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: merthyr tydfil	I'm by no means an expert, but I've used it on my car with no ill effects, its one of the best you can buy in my opinion

Apr 15th, 2010, 22:26	#3
rallyman Junior Member Last Online: Nov 13th, 2022 11:07 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: NEWBURY	absolutely. Its a compound in various grades for all top coats. Your metalic is basically a clear coat (laquer) over a cellulose formerly, or water based flat paint latterly. The base coat is your colour whereas in a solid colour, imagine the top coat is a laquer with a colour pigment in it. Farecla was orig produced for a mop (industrial polishing machine) When i do a top quality job, i always finish by mopping the surface to take any small imperfections out. For this i would use a 1500 grade wet or dry (used wet with soap) to flat the surface, then polish back with G7 on the mop. They also make G3 which will do the same job by hand and a G10 for perfect fine finish but always put a decent polish on top of any compounded surface to protect it. Carnuba wax is probably the best you can get but it has to be done a sq mtre at a time. anyone wants to PM me on bodywork issues feel free. Nick

Apr 16th, 2010, 14:04	#5
rallyman Junior Member Last Online: Nov 13th, 2022 11:07 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: NEWBURY	Put the wet and dry down immediately!!!!!!!!!!! The only resemblence to T cut is that it is indeed a rubbing compound. When i talk of wet and dry, that is for new paintwork as a de-nibber (small particles of airborn dust) not original but having said that, it will with a mop take all the scratches out if you flat the surface but i wouldnt reccomend you try or need to do so. So, on original paintwork, simply apply G3 in small circular motions with a wet muslin cloth, do the whole panel, then, unlike T cut which has a greasy residue, just wash off with clean water and wax. Simples

Apr 16th, 2010, 14:52	#6
Profpriv I've Been Banned Last Online: Jun 15th, 2015 21:48 Join Date: May 2009 Location: BURGESS HILL	Thanks Rallyman Where would I look for it??A specialist auto body shop?? Is there anything else I need? Shaun

Apr 16th, 2010, 23:12	#7
rallyman Junior Member Last Online: Nov 13th, 2022 11:07 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: NEWBURY	Shaun most self respecting car paint suppliers should be able to get it if not stock it. whilst there, get a roll of polishing cloth. the only thing you will then need is a bit of time and some dark glasses ps. ive a feeling a large Half ford may stock it. Any further info always willing Nick

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