240 General: New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Wasn't going to comment on this as it's a valid method, certainly for distributors with points and condensor inside but what's inside yours Alan?

The Hall Effect sensor for the electronic ignition.

You may get away with it but i wouldn't risk it, espceially as spare HE sensors are stored in the shop next to the unicorn horns and hens teeth.

I see Dave - so you think just sticking with the WMP and gentle persuasion over a long period plan would be best?

I'm in no rush whatsoever as the timing is correct now and will not change, so I've taken to applying an artists' paintbrush full of WMP after every time I take the RB out (most days). The capillary action sucks WMP into the shaft so it must eventually get to where it is needed. I'll keep doing that until the winter break and then try that big plumber's wrench I bought on the base of the distributor again.

This has probably been a victim of its own success in a sense. Because the RB has had electronic ignition (Bosch JHFUD4 from a 1984-7 240) - probably for three decades - no one has needed to adjust it, except perhaps at cam belt change time (it may only be on its third of fourth one at 108,000 miles). Those bits of cast iron and aluminium have lived in the same close proximity for maybe 30 years and have developed a pretty close bond.

This is not a problem that needs fixing with any urgency whatsoever, even if the timing needed to be adjusted it can be done (but is very stiff at the moment).

If it doesn't free itself with WMP by next spring then a good time to fix this might be if I change to a 4 speed auto box after 1 April next year when the RB will be safely registered as an historic vehicle (I don't want to risk some civil servant from Swansea telling me my vehicle has been 'significantly modified' and so doesn't qualify). That would be a good time to pull out the engine and transmission together and do any other remedial work that might be useful to both at the same time (I'm thinking crank seals and gaskets, maybe even rings and big ends to see the car fit for another 100,000 miles).

As always, many thanks for your help and advice chaps,

Alan.