Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > 200 Series General
Register Members CarsBlogs Help Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244

Views : 29992

Replies : 1435

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Jul 11th, 2020, 06:51   #1431
Othen
Master Member
 
Othen's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 08:42
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Corby
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Wasn't going to comment on this as it's a valid method, certainly for distributors with points and condensor inside but what's inside yours Alan?

The Hall Effect sensor for the electronic ignition.

You may get away with it but i wouldn't risk it, espceially as spare HE sensors are stored in the shop next to the unicorn horns and hens teeth.
I see Dave - so you think just sticking with the WMP and gentle persuasion over a long period plan would be best?

I'm in no rush whatsoever as the timing is correct now and will not change, so I've taken to applying an artists' paintbrush full of WMP after every time I take the RB out (most days). The capillary action sucks WMP into the shaft so it must eventually get to where it is needed. I'll keep doing that until the winter break and then try that big plumber's wrench I bought on the base of the distributor again.

This has probably been a victim of its own success in a sense. Because the RB has had electronic ignition (Bosch JHFUD4 from a 1984-7 240) - probably for three decades - no one has needed to adjust it, except perhaps at cam belt change time (it may only be on its third of fourth one at 108,000 miles). Those bits of cast iron and aluminium have lived in the same close proximity for maybe 30 years and have developed a pretty close bond.

This is not a problem that needs fixing with any urgency whatsoever, even if the timing needed to be adjusted it can be done (but is very stiff at the moment).

If it doesn't free itself with WMP by next spring then a good time to fix this might be if I change to a 4 speed auto box after 1 April next year when the RB will be safely registered as an historic vehicle (I don't want to risk some civil servant from Swansea telling me my vehicle has been 'significantly modified' and so doesn't qualify). That would be a good time to pull out the engine and transmission together and do any other remedial work that might be useful to both at the same time (I'm thinking crank seals and gaskets, maybe even rings and big ends to see the car fit for another 100,000 miles).

As always, many thanks for your help and advice chaps,

Alan.

Last edited by Othen; Jul 11th, 2020 at 06:53.
Othen is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Othen For This Useful Post:
Old Jul 11th, 2020, 08:02   #1432
Bugjam1999
Master Member
 

Last Online: Yesterday 20:34
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: London and Cambridge
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Wasn't going to comment on this as it's a valid method, certainly for distributors with points and condensor inside but what's inside yours Alan?

The Hall Effect sensor for the electronic ignition.

You may get away with it but i wouldn't risk it, espceially as spare HE sensors are stored in the shop next to the unicorn horns and hens teeth.
Fair comment- certainly wise to proceed with care when parts are no longer available...

There are other ways of freeing it, as discussed- and if the engine and gearbox are removed from the car at some point then everything will be easier anyway.

No doubt Othen will let us know what works

Cheers
Bugjam1999 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bugjam1999 For This Useful Post:
Old Jul 11th, 2020, 10:25   #1433
Othen
Master Member
 
Othen's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 08:42
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Corby
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugjam1999 View Post
Fair comment- certainly wise to proceed with care when parts are no longer available...

There are other ways of freeing it, as discussed- and if the engine and gearbox are removed from the car at some point then everything will be easier anyway.

No doubt Othen will let us know what works

Cheers
Many thanks for your advice Bugjam and LS,

I'll try the softly-softly approach first. If that doesn't work I suspect the engine will come out for one reason or another in the next 5 years. It looks like it would be an easy job on the bench.

:-)
Othen is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Othen For This Useful Post:
Old Today, 06:53   #1434
Othen
Master Member
 
Othen's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 08:42
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Corby
Default

Nothing much to report on the project this week. I had noticed the RB had developed a small oil leak on the right side of the engine. A little investigation of the usual suspects soon identified the culprit: the cam cover gasket. I had taken it off to check the valve clearances some weeks ago and taken a chance on not fitting a new gasket, the old one looked okay.

No matter, I had a spare anyway and got the new one fitted in about 15 minutes. The oil is staying inside the motor again now - which is nice.

:-)
Othen is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Othen For This Useful Post:
Old Today, 10:20   #1435
john.wigley
VOC Member since 1986
 
john.wigley's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 12:15
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Leicestershire
Default

Oil's well that ends well, Alan!! J.
__________________
Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana .....
john.wigley is online now   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to john.wigley For This Useful Post:
Old Today, 11:06   #1436
Laird Scooby
Premier Member
 
Laird Scooby's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 12:04
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Othen View Post
Nothing much to report on the project this week. I had noticed the RB had developed a small oil leak on the right side of the engine. A little investigation of the usual suspects soon identified the culprit: the cam cover gasket. I had taken it off to check the valve clearances some weeks ago and taken a chance on not fitting a new gasket, the old one looked okay.

No matter, I had a spare anyway and got the new one fitted in about 15 minutes. The oil is staying inside the motor again now - which is nice.

:-)
Always good to have the oil where it should be Alan! You're reminding me i need to do mine - valve clearances and rocker cover gaskets. Not quite so simple on mine though!
__________________
Cheers

Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Rover 827 Sterling and a 765 GLEa V6!
Laird Scooby is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:33.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.