2006 V50 2.0 Sport buying advice

[SonyVaio]

Okay I know where the confusion is coming from!

The car is a 2006 on a 56 plate but is actually a MY (Manufacturer Year) 2007.

The 2.0 Petrol came out on the 2007 MY cars. So yes it can well be a petrol (Engine code B4204S3) and certainly won't have any of the dreaded DPF problems or costs.

Have a search for Daim and C30 as he has a C30 2.0 petrol and has put up a great deal of info on the engine.

Personally though I think the price for age and mileage is pretty top dollar, you really want to be knocking a good £1000 to £1500 off that price. There is a couple of really nice ones for sale on here in the sales section worth a glance.

[x DTR x]

Although the mileage is quite reasonable and the condition looks good, 6k seems a little high to me? Would try knocking it down a bit!

[joelmacdonald]

Ah Mr Vaio. How did you figure that out then? No wonder I couldn't find anything on a 2006 petrol!

Yeah DTR I have the Ka to trade in and some cash. I plan to have a bit of a haggle.

[joelmacdonald]

Just back from giving the car a run.

AC works. Speakers all working. Nothing to complain about on the drive. Felt like a ferrari compared to the 1.2 Ka.

He's not budging on price though!

[x DTR x]

If you are really happy with it then go for it. I had a look on Auto trader and it seems to be the going price from trade sellers. May have got one a bit cheaper privately as sometimes easier to haggle when waving cash under their noses! The V50 sport is a great looking car and lovely to drive, and if you have a little one on the way, then it's the perfect choice

[Daim]

Originally Posted by joelmacdonald

Why would the DVLA have it down as a petrol though when you do a reg check?

Hey, don't worry about them. It will be a 2.0l petrol. I have a 2006 C30 with the same engine. It is the 1.8l in a bigger bore.

What to keep an eye on?

Well, the engine doesn't require much service. But it WILL need it and that regularly. Oilchanges MUST be done regularly. If not, you'll lose a reliable engine.

Make sure the gears are all "rather easy" to engage. If not, then the gearbox will need adjusting and possibly the clutch changing. Otherwise engine wise, it is totally okay. No issues what so ever... No standard "faults".

[joelmacdonald]

Cheers folks. Yeah I came home to try and find a cheaper one to leverage with but they all seem to sit around this price.

One thing I did notice was a bulge in the front left tyre. Might try and angle 4 new tyres.

If not would it be safe to replace just the one? Or just the front two. With a baby on the way I don't fancy a hefty tire bill in a few months. Ill be up to my neck in nappies and baby lotion!

Thanks daim. Good to hear there's nothing but general maintenance to worry about. Just need to get into the habit of keeping the oil in tip top shape. Gears felt fine. Obviously use to the Ka as we've driven it for 4 years so will feel different.

[x DTR x]

Would be ok to change one as long as it's the same rating etc but a set of two would be better. Tell them this has to be done before you acquire it but if they only do the one, perhaps you could swap the rears onto the front if they are a matching pair?

[t5_monkey]

Things to check....

clutch, vibration on quick starts or biting near top of pedal.

Handling feel if its a bit 'wooly' and loose worn bushes and dampers.

Tread depth ... don't want to be shelling out for new tyres soon after buying!

brake discs... how deeply are they worn etc...

is the steering stiff at low speed, is the pump whining? could need new top mounts.

Basically take your time driving it and see what you think.

17" wheels rides much better than 18's

[Daim]

@ joelmacdonald

Well, there are a few little bits and bobs what the engine CAN do, but they are seldom to never... Really. Though there was one recall regarding the wiring of the fan, but that should be done. Otherwise:

altenator belt tensioner:
The tensioner can start to make noises. Volvo has 3 systems to try.
1. normal belt, spring loaded tensioner
2. normal belt, hydraulic loaded tensioner
3. self tensioning belt, not spring/hydraulic tensioner needed

Version 1. should be standard fitted. From ~2009 it was version 2. If Version 3 is fitted, then 1 and 2 didn't work. So listen for some "clicking" noises on the drivers side.

If you can hear the chain rattle at first start up, don't worry. The engine sounds like it is going to fly to pieces when cold, but when it is warm, you shouldn't here a rattle at all (the older the engine gets, the more it starts to rattle, but it shouldn't be like many VW TSIs with their chain).

The throttle body CAN fail. CAN means that it most likely won't, unlike with the Volvo Magneti Mirelli throttles, but you never know. It is also recommendable to clean the TB every ~2 years. Depending on how much sh*te is stuck behind it, you'll possible be affected by a very lumpy idle, sporadic stalling and when you take it out of gear whilst rolling (coasting), that the idle is erratic. Clean it, should all go. It is rare for that to happen, but it can.

Otherwise the engine is really really really reliable. I not once have had an issue with it. Not once. I had a slight judder at higher rpms (when flooring it) but that was because my fuel pump was on it's way out... About 3 years ago...!

Service for the 2.0l is mere too. As said, a good full synthetic oil, say at least a 5w30. Better an 0w30. I only use that, what Volvo fill in, that is Castrol Edge Professional 0w30. It used to be something else, but Volvo has changed that since.

A recommendation for sparkplug: NGK irridium plugs. Ford has gone so far and replaces all normal Ford plugs with the NGKs. As the engine is a Ford Duratec, it is spot on the same as that what Ford offers. incl. torque, power etc. Airfilter change every 3 years/37.500 miles (what ever comes first) with the sparkplugs.

The timing chain doesn't require ANY maintance for 12 years/150.000 miles (what ever comes first). And even then, it doesn't need to be changed. They check the timing, the chain condition and the valve clearances. All adjusted, and you are fit for another 150.000 miles.

I haven't put any money towards the engine other than servicing. And that since 5 years. I doubt any engine (not even a T5 and that isn't mean negativly) is more reliable...