V70: - Tracking: am I being unreasonable? - Page 3

JumboBeef · Oct 28th, 2016, 07:26

Update:

The car had started to judder under braking, the steering wheel shaking, for a few weeks before all this tracking issue started. Not too bad, the brakes worked fine apart from the slight judder. I lived with it for a few weeks and it went in for an MOT. Passed (after the work already described in the first post was done) no advisories on the brakes which I was pleased at but surprised. Shortly after the MOT the steering wheel started to pull to the right under braking. More accurate to say the car braked in a straight line but the wheel pulled itself straight under braking, and then the top of the wheel would go back to 11 o'clock with foot off the brakes.

I booked it into a garage as this was most definitely not right. The garage found the offside wishbone 'completely knackered' and the nearside not much better.

Both replaced, now no judder and the steering wheel is now straight.

Luxobarge · Oct 28th, 2016, 09:04

Immediate question that comes to mind is, how the hell did the MoT tester pass it like that? Those wishbone bushes don't fail suddenly, and it's super-easy to test them, you need to be asking yourself what other life-threatening faults has he also missed? I think I'd be taking the old wishbones back to that MoT station and having a quiet chat with the gaffer there if it were me.

Cypher007 · Oct 28th, 2016, 10:03

ive had a set of bad wishbones go through an MOT. then when I got the car tested at a different place the following year they failed it and showed me how much play was in them. I thought something was up as the steering wheel would turn slightly under braking. those wishbones were crap only lasted 4000 miles till the first MOT, when I guess they were knackered, but passed.

t+m · Oct 29th, 2016, 23:37

I used to do tracking when I worked in a tyre and exhaust centre 30 yrs ago. We used the old dunlop gauges where you look down the site to the mirror opposite,
Only after determining that all the bushes and ball joints are ok, that there isnt a sagging or broken spring that the tyre pressures are ok , the tyres are the same size across the axle and that directional tyres are actually facing the right way and the car is settled onto level ground can the base measurement be taken. If its out then both trackrods have to be loosened. The car has to be resettled again after it was jacked up and the steering wheel locked straight. Then each track rod has to be adjusted the same amount otherwise youll end up with one side longer and an offset steering wheel.
The gauges also have to be calibrated to zero before each use because they get knocked about.
in your case I would check tyre pressures etc then count/measure the number of exposed threads behind tge trackrod lock nuts. They should be exactly the same. You probably have a tighter turning circle in one direction.

Oct 28th, 2016, 09:04	#22
Luxobarge Premier Member Last Online: Today 14:53 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Horne (Nr. Horley)	Immediate question that comes to mind is, how the hell did the MoT tester pass it like that? Those wishbone bushes don't fail suddenly, and it's super-easy to test them, you need to be asking yourself what other life-threatening faults has he also missed? I think I'd be taking the old wishbones back to that MoT station and having a quiet chat with the gaffer there if it were me. __________________ Some people are like Slinkies, they serve no useful purpose but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them downstairs.

Oct 28th, 2016, 10:03	#23
Cypher007 Master Member Last Online: Jan 8th, 2024 14:20 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Lincolnshire	ive had a set of bad wishbones go through an MOT. then when I got the car tested at a different place the following year they failed it and showed me how much play was in them. I thought something was up as the steering wheel would turn slightly under braking. those wishbones were crap only lasted 4000 miles till the first MOT, when I guess they were knackered, but passed. __________________ Volvo 854 T5R Yellow 1994 Aquamist 2D (Don & Aquamist) BMC panel filter (Don) Ferrita Cat Back (Don) Denso Iridium Spark Plugs (Hong Kong) PowerFlex Top Engine Mount (?) PowerFlex Wishbone Bushes (Elk Parts) 302mm front brake upgrade Goodridge front hoses (rears to be fitted later) 600W Inverter (ebay) History: 1991 Volvo 340DL (1982) 1994 Volvo 360GLE (1989) 1999 Volvo 360GLT (1988) 2002 Volvo 850GLT (1991) 2004 Volvo 850T5R (1994)

Oct 28th, 2016, 07:26	#21
JumboBeef Member Last Online: Sep 22nd, 2018 12:43 Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Dartmoor, Devon.	Update: The car had started to judder under braking, the steering wheel shaking, for a few weeks before all this tracking issue started. Not too bad, the brakes worked fine apart from the slight judder. I lived with it for a few weeks and it went in for an MOT. Passed (after the work already described in the first post was done) no advisories on the brakes which I was pleased at but surprised. Shortly after the MOT the steering wheel started to pull to the right under braking. More accurate to say the car braked in a straight line but the wheel pulled itself straight under braking, and then the top of the wheel would go back to 11 o'clock with foot off the brakes. I booked it into a garage as this was most definitely not right. The garage found the offside wishbone 'completely knackered' and the nearside not much better. Both replaced, now no judder and the steering wheel is now straight.

Oct 29th, 2016, 23:37	#24
t+m Member Last Online: Sep 11th, 2017 08:58 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: reading	I used to do tracking when I worked in a tyre and exhaust centre 30 yrs ago. We used the old dunlop gauges where you look down the site to the mirror opposite, Only after determining that all the bushes and ball joints are ok, that there isnt a sagging or broken spring that the tyre pressures are ok , the tyres are the same size across the axle and that directional tyres are actually facing the right way and the car is settled onto level ground can the base measurement be taken. If its out then both trackrods have to be loosened. The car has to be resettled again after it was jacked up and the steering wheel locked straight. Then each track rod has to be adjusted the same amount otherwise youll end up with one side longer and an offset steering wheel. The gauges also have to be calibrated to zero before each use because they get knocked about. in your case I would check tyre pressures etc then count/measure the number of exposed threads behind tge trackrod lock nuts. They should be exactly the same. You probably have a tighter turning circle in one direction.

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