Starting issues

[Lauriem]

I bought a 2010 D5 xc90 recently, I paid well below market price as it had engine service, engine system service, and service due now messages, but it started perfectly and ran well, albeit often in limp mode and the handbrake was faulty.

I put in in my local Indy garage and a full service was done (oil, air, fuel filters etc) and the handbrake sorted. No real detective work was done on the service messages but when the car came back it had a starting issue whereby it starts reluctantly when cold, perfectly when hot, and very reluctantly when lukewarm. I have had the Service Message issues sorted (a set of DPF sensors, plus a cam and crankshaft sensor) and all messages are off, but the car still won’t start reliably. I have also fitted a new battery. The car will turn over fine, and will fire but not run for several turns, but will eventually start and then runs perfectly.

I have read that an air leak on the low pressure side of the fuel system can cause this, but how do you check this, and any other suggestions would be appreciated.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Lauriem

I bought a 2010 D5 xc90 recently, I paid well below market price as it had engine service, engine system service, and service due now messages, but it started perfectly and ran well, albeit often in limp mode and the handbrake was faulty.

I put in in my local Indy garage and a full service was done (oil, air, fuel filters etc) and the handbrake sorted. No real detective work was done on the service messages but when the car came back it had a starting issue whereby it starts reluctantly when cold, perfectly when hot, and very reluctantly when lukewarm. I have had the Service Message issues sorted (a set of DPF sensors, plus a cam and crankshaft sensor) and all messages are off, but the car still won’t start reliably. I have also fitted a new battery. The car will turn over fine, and will fire but not run for several turns, but will eventually start and then runs perfectly.

I have read that an air leak on the low pressure side of the fuel system can cause this, but how do you check this, and any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Sounds like water in the fuel. Get the fuel tank level down to 1/4 tank or less then add 2L of meths - Toolstation sell 2L of meths for £9.99 :

https://www.toolstation.com/methylated-spirit/p99550

Add ALL of it in one go, it forms an emulsion with the water (condensation) in the tank which will burn with the other fuel.

I take it the glow plugs were checked during the service? Also are you getting white smoke from the tailpipe during the failed starting attempts?

[Lauriem]

Thanks for this, gave it a try but no luck. Had it checked out and the camshaft position sensor comes up as the issue. The one in my car is an aftermarket one, and I have been recommended to try to get an OE one. The local Volvo dealer wants £173 for the sensor, plus another £7.00 for the sealing ring (gulp). There are loads of “OE Equivalent” ones out there, including highly respect brands (Bosch, Hella, Valeo etc), but can anyone confirm which one Volvo use? My car is a 2010 D5 EC90.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Lauriem

Thanks for this, gave it a try but no luck. Had it checked out and the camshaft position sensor comes up as the issue. The one in my car is an aftermarket one, and I have been recommended to try to get an OE one. The local Volvo dealer wants £173 for the sensor, plus another £7.00 for the sealing ring (gulp). There are loads of “OE Equivalent” ones out there, including highly respect brands (Bosch, Hella, Valeo etc), but can anyone confirm which one Volvo use? My car is a 2010 D5 EC90.

Probably Bosch or Valeo. I'd forgotten they'd adulterated diesel engines with electronic control so wasn't even on my radar to think of that. You'll probably find many other cars use the exact same sensor and you can pick one up from Kia or something silly for 1/4 of the price.

Find out the Volvo part number, type it in to your search bar and hit Return. Then look at the Bosch number and search for that, you should find a "Buyers Guide" at some point, click that and it should list all the vehicles that use the same one.

[Lauriem]

Hi. Can you tell me where to find the Volvo part number?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Lauriem

Hi. Can you tell me where to find the Volvo part number?

Did Volvo not give it to you when you asked for the price of it?

A quick search on an Intermotor catalogue suggests :

VOLVO 8658726 or VOLVO 21123875 , searching fleabay brings up :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSCH-0-2...O/323269426838

From the listing :

Item specifics
Condition:
New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging is ... Read more
about the condition
Hersteller: BOSCH
Artikelnummer: 0 232 103 063 Herstellernummer: 0 232 103 063
Marke: BOSCH EAN: 4047024356979
Preis/Leistung: sehr gut Referenznummer(n) OEM: 0 232 103 063, 0232103063, PG-3-8, FACET 9.0651, METZGER 0903109, VEMO V95-72-0015
Oberflächenbeschaffenheit: NEU Referenznummer(n) OE: 21123875
Produktgruppe: Zünd-/Glühanlage Weitere Artikelnummer: 0232103063


Highlighted the important bit in red!

[Lauriem]

Amusingly Volvo refused to give a part number (I did ask).

Thanks again for your help!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Lauriem

Amusingly Volvo refused to give a part number (I did ask).

Thanks again for your help!

They're obviously not an "old skool" proper Volvo dealer then!

Joking aside, it's standard procedure in main dealer parts depts to withhold parts numbers if possible to stop people going elsewhere. It also stops them finding out about the extortionate mark-up some dealers charge.

You're welcome and glad we've found one at a sensible price!

[Lauriem]

I have now replaced the aftermarket ecu with a Bosch unit as per the OEM advice kindly given above. It made no difference, with the car still refusing to start when warm. I took it to a small Volvo specialist in Doncaster (Evolve Motoring Services), whose diagnostic (not VIDA) showed up Camshaft Sensor issue, but fitting another different sensor again did not do the trick. He then checked the ECU output, and the cables from the sensor to the ECU, and all were as they should be. He suggested it must be an ECU problem as all other avenues had been exhausted. That he did all of this work but refused any payment was a surprise, but a great indication of what a top guy who is! He said he could not do anymore, but he certainly

Any recommendation re ECU checks or tests. I have contacted ECU express who will test it for £60, and repair it (if possible) for a further £70.

[Lauriem]

Fur ecu in the first sentence read Camshaft Sensor.