Steering rack identification

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

Play in the steering could be the track rod ends (also known as tie rods). There's two (the inner track rod that connects to the steering rack & the outer that connects to the steering knuckle).

I would have thought that as the car has recently been MOT'd, any loose parts would have been identified. Then again, an MOT isn't a given that everything is totally perfect either. A pass just means the car has met minimum roadworthiness, yet there still could be the odd underlying issue here & there. After all, its known that some garages are stricter than others for MOT's.

For example, a car could have a suspension knock that's driving you nuts & it'll still pass an MOT without an advisory, if the person doing the MOT doesn't spot the offending part that is. Or you might get an advisory saying "x part is worn, but not resulting in excessive movement" & still drive the car away. Yet when you actually inspect it, it could be worse than what the tester thought was "not excessive" movement. I'm not implying that all mechanics/garages do this, but I've come across vehicles that are clunking very badly & they went through their MOT's without a single advisory! I'm not implying that your MOT was like this either, but its something to bare in mind.

I'd suggest whilst you still have the car to test the suspension properly. Worn control arms can also cause play in the steering. By doing this, you'll be able to rule out whether you have more than one issue. Check the steering rack itself, the mounts that secure it in place etc. I wouldn't just buy a rack for the sake of it... diagnose & then replace.

Here's a video that shows how to check the track rod ends (inner & outer) for play;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brI2feYiEi8

Watch this video. It shows how to test your control arms for play at around 5 minutes 50 seconds. Then it explains some of the other parts that can fail.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QyFFT_NHg8

If possible, jack the car up & have a good look around. Check the suspension parts for play with a pry par, look for split rubber boots on the ball joints, outer tie rod ends etc.

Thanks for the info, last year both the control arms had an MOT advisory, but not this year, this year it says steering rack, hence my question Theres a knocking from the control arm area when going along a fire track, also when sat still and you rock the steering wheel back and forth, theres a knock from below the steering wheel area

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Bashy

Thanks for the info, last year both the control arms had an MOT advisory, but not this year, this year it says steering rack, hence my question Theres a knocking from the control arm area when going along a fire track, also when sat still and you rock the steering wheel back and forth, theres a knock from below the steering wheel area

The only way you'll find out is to inspect it, or bring it to a garage to get it up on a ramp & have a good pry around with a bar.

If doing it yourself;

• Inspect both control arms (check for split bushings/play with a pry bar).
  
• Check the steering rack itself for any leaks & check the mountings are secure (could also cause a knocking noise). If you see a leak from the rack, then that'll need sorting sooner rather than later because fluid loss won't cure itself. There's leak stop products you can get, but I don't know whether they're any good being honest. Chances are, given the age of the vehicle, you'll need a replacement rack if you see fluid everywhere.
  
• The knock from the steering wheel area when the car is sat still sounds like the universal joint. Although, my car does the exact same thing when parked stationary & it went through the MOT without a thing being mentioned... The knock from the footwell/pedal area can't be heard when driving though. It might be worth checking that its lubricated too, so applying a bit of bearing grease wouldn't do any harm if it looks dry.
  
• Check the other suspension parts whilst you're at it (drop links, ball joints, inner/outer track rod ends).

By doing these steps, hopefully you can identify whether you have more than one issue.

[oragex]

As above, just knocking is not a correct way to blame a rack. If it's a MOT advisory, I would be really aware, mechanics like to blame steering racks because they make good money replacing them (had this happen at three different places, one even tried to tell me the steering lock is a failed rack ) A knock could come from plenty of areas, even a loose bolt at the upper steering coupler. The car must be inspected carefully and the mechanic must clearly put your finger at a place and say : "feel it, this is the play" The safest way to diagnose correctly is to put you finger at some place, then you 'feel' the knock and may even feel the play. Yes, a rack may knock usually after an inner tie rod is replaced without counter holding the rack which damaged a centering sleeve and allows the rack rod to have some play. But if you hear knocking while driving, this can be many things, spring seat (will usually 'squeak'), ball joint ( a deep but not too loud clunk), anti roll bar bushes (irregular cracking and clunking usually after climbing an incline road), etc I don't know what a fire track is, but knocking over irregular road surface I would expect perhaps a worn roll bar bush - usually it will look very crushed and a large gap above the bush when the wheel is lifted, and perhaps a spring seat https://youtu.be/kj4JmZS2yM4

[Christerart]

Originally Posted by Kev0607

I think the buttons do affect the ride, but also steering. Cars that have 4c suspension will have sensors on the chassis & a speed sensitive steering rack.

My understanding is if your car hasn't got the buttons to adjust the suspension setup to comfort or sport on the dash, then it won't have 4c shocks or speed sensitive steering. Don't quote me on that though.

Quote from IPD USA:

"Models equipped with FOUR-C have comfort and sport options selectable on the dashboard.

In much the same manner as the human brain, the sensory information is received and immediately acted upon. The Four-C system has a sophisticated microprocessor and software that computes the motions of the car to adapt the hardness of the shock absorbers. The result is that the car is always fluid with the surface of the road.

While the car negotiates varying terrain, the shock absorbers are updated with new information 500 times a second. In essence, the system makes adjustments continuously, and instantaneously.

The Four-C is a first in the world of cars. To develop this totally new technology Volvo collaborated with high-tech system developer Öhlins Racing AB and shock absorber manufacturer Monroe (both leaders in their fields).

The computerized electrical system of the Volvo, known as Multiplex, also sends information to the Four-C system. Under severe braking for instance, the Four-C system receive the braking information a few milliseconds before the brake pads touch the brake disc. By then the Four-C microprocessor has computed how much the braking will cause the front end of the car to dive, and uses this information to set the shock absorbers to maximize control and tire grip.

When the car is accelerating, Four-C receives the corresponding information from the longitudinal acceleration sensor. Similarly, the system passes on information about a sharp deflection of the steering wheel a few milliseconds before the car actually changes direction.

So Four-C can predict what is going to happen, making the pun in its name (foresee) highly appropriate.

At this point, we do not know of a way to remove the Four-C shocks and struts from a vehicle without setting off warning lights, setting fault codes and potentially disabling onboard systems. Four-C is integrated with the traction control, braking systems and engine management on your Volvo so removing it is not a simple matter."

Interesting. One of my XC's is a 2008, originally bought in Germany but to UK specs, so right handed.

The steering feels like someone else described in another thread:

"I've noticed a weird effect on the steering and on investigation it seems to be a"tight"spot slightly right of centre."

It's like it "binds" when you make small adjustments. The steering is also heavier than my 2005 XC70.

I called FRF and according to Simon when checking my reg #, I do not have speed sensitive steering (although I DO have 4C active suspension, complete with the buttons to adjust the suspension setup to comfort, sport or advanced).

He told me according to the reg # my car has a one piece steering rack (so no "steering rack lower" as on my 2005 XC as I thought I could change) and a replacement is £608 plus VAT before any discount.

[Bashy]

I've just noticed it say inner joint nsf, is that still that whole rack or just part of that needs replacing?

[volvo again]

Had exactly the same advisory on my MOT last week, just need to replace the inner tie
rod, that's the part that screws into the steering rack end, covered by the bellows and connects to the track rod end. Very straightforward job.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Bashy

I've just noticed it say inner joint nsf, is that still that whole rack or just part of that needs replacing?

That'll be the inner tie rods or inner track rod ends as they're known here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brI2feYiEi8

^This video shows how to inspect them. Its a different vehicle, but the process is more or less the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05XOhz67jGA

^This video shows how to replace them. Again, its not a Volvo, but a similar process.

Worn track rods/tie rods can cause a knocking noise, so maybe that's what you're hearing. Although, as I said in another post, you'll be best jacking the car up & inspecting the suspension for play or bring it to a garage.

I wouldn't be buying a steering rack just for the sake of it because the knocking noise might not be the rack, it could be the track rods or another part of the suspension for example. It could be the mounts that hold the rack too.

Lots to check really...

[oragex]

Order carefully the part for your rack, the part for the other rack model would not fit

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by volvo again

Had exactly the same advisory on my MOT last week, just need to replace the inner tie
rod, that's the part that screws into the steering rack end, covered by the bellows and connects to the track rod end. Very straightforward job.

Originally Posted by Kev0607

That'll be the inner tie rods or inner track rod ends as they're known here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brI2feYiEi8

^This video shows how to inspect them. Its a different vehicle, but the process is more or less the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05XOhz67jGA

^This video shows how to replace them. Again, its not a Volvo, but a similar process.

Worn track rods/tie rods can cause a knocking noise, so maybe that's what you're hearing. Although, as I said in another post, you'll be best jacking the car up & inspecting the suspension for play or bring it to a garage.

I wouldn't be buying a steering rack just for the sake of it because the knocking noise might not be the rack, it could be the track rods or another part of the suspension for example. It could be the mounts that hold the rack too.

Lots to check really...

Originally Posted by oragex

Order carefully the part for your rack, the part for the other rack model would not fit

Thanks guys and phew....
The only wee technical issue now is the fact that the rack is still leaking but could now be back to my original thought, its leaking from the o-ring where the pipe mates to the rack? #20 in my last image

So, if further inspection does in fact lead to the inner joint(s) then these could be replaced when the control arms are done?

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Bashy

Thanks guys and phew....
The only wee technical issue now is the fact that the rack is still leaking but could now be back to my original thought, its leaking from the o-ring where the pipe mates to the rack? #20 in my last image

So, if further inspection does in fact lead to the inner joint(s) then these could be replaced when the control arms are done?

Yeah, you could get the control arms & inner track rods done at the same time (replace both sides though).

Whilst you/garage is at it, inspect the outer track rods for play/split rubber boots too. If they're worn, then you may as well replace the outer track rods both sides too (at the same time as the inner's).

You'll need an alignment afterwards too.