Paintwork refinishing?

[nrobinson]

Some of the paint work on my (currently off the road) 1998 V70 is looking a little poor - particularly bumpers.
I have some very basic experience of 'shooting paint' but would like to improve and i thought this would give me the ideal opportunity.

Is there anyone that could give me some advice / recommendations on paints to use as this has always confused me. The Vin plate states that i have 019-26, so from search i believe this is:-
019 = Volvo Black (stone?).
2 = Herberts (STANDOX)
6 = water based Solid/Metallic/Pearl + 2 component Varnish

Firstly I've never understood for what i assume to be a solid colour why lacquer is required other from the ease of achieving quick gloss finish. Of the various touch up kits being sold some seems to be single application products, others being two stage with a lacquer.
For the time being i will assume to be looking to do the two stage process unless someone suggests otherwise.

Can anyone therefore recommend what product i can use, that I'm likely to be able to order online bearing in mind the lockdown.

Looking for recommendation on the following bearing in mind my amateur working condition - 3hp/ 150litre compressor, but no spray booth or dust free environment.:-

-Primer? (although unlikely that anything will be back to bare metal so dont needs to consider epoxy or etc for example)
-Solid Basecoat? (cellulose / acrylic?) (2k?)
-Lacquer (assuming 2k?)

Thanks

Nick

[Luxobarge]

Regarding the compressor, the vital spec is the CFM - Cubic Feet per Minute, which is the volume of air it can deliver under pressure per minute. For a decent spraygun you need around 15CFM, they use quite a lot of air although at fairly low pressure. If you don't have this capacity you will need to keep stopping while the compressor catches up, which can ruin a paint job as keeping a "wet edge" as you apply the layers is important for a smooth and consistent finish.

If you're going straight on to bare metal I would strongly recommend using an etch primer, only a thin layer is required, and unless you're doing a large area or are going the two-pack route I reckon rattle cans are good enough, especially if you get decent quality cans. Just search for "etch primer aerosol".

HTH

[Gonzobard]

Hi Nick. I can’t specifically answer all of your questions but have recently got my bumpers and trim looking better. When I bought my car 12 months ago I used C4 on the plastic trim and it looked better. I have recently followed some advice on here and tried linseed oil and have found it to work well and is easy to apply, so can be done as frequently as needed. I did leave slightly too much on the roof rails such that they collected wind-blown dust and debris, next time I’ll go back over with a clean cloth to remove any excess.
I do need to shortly attack some poor lacquer and paint on my 850. Paint I should be able to get from a local automotive paint supplier, they will either use the vin code or may match from the car, I’m not sure as yet.

[Gonzobard]

I intend to use rattle cans, they should be suitable for my needs. I don’t intend to do all panels at the same time. I have had an estimate for a full re-spray and it isn’t cheap, so I will be happy with my own efforts - they won’t be to a professional standard but they will be affordable!

[nrobinson]

Thanks for the comments so far all.

Its the spraygun approach (rather than cans) that i want to take, as i have other projects in the pipeline that want to be proficient at spraying. As mentioned Ive had some very limited experience already. I have a Land Rover Defender that I've recently sprayed a quarter panel and it acceptable but not brilliant - but does highlight that on these particular vehicles due to steel / aluminium reaction , wear and tear dings etc that the easiest way to keep them looking good is a respray :-)

Luxobarge - yes compressor is 14cfm, and should give no problems there. It certainly runs a 3/4" Impact Gun and Air Chisel / Needle Gun ok - as the neighbours can testify:-)
Re the Etch Primer. No bare metal planned on the Volvo but might be on the Land Rover. My understanding is that 2k epoxy primer is overtaking etch primer in popularity. Im sure there are preferred situations for both, but i understand the benefit of epoxy is that once its on the bare metal, its as hard as nails, but also allows you to apply body filler over it if necessary, which apparently you cannot ( or its not recommended) with an etch primer.

If anyone can , I'd be interested in comments about the basecoat and clear coat paint options.

Thanks

Nick

[Luxobarge]

Yep 2K epoxy is great stuff, but (unless my info is out of date) is dangerous stuff to use, as it has cyanide compounds in it, so you need full breathing apparatus, i.e. positive pressure face mask etc. and there may be environmental regulations too. Your call whether you go the full 2-pack route or just stick with single-pack cellulose based stuff. If you do go 2k, then personally I'd recommend that for the lacquer too - I did this on a silver metallic Jag I had way back, and it worked really well, very tough finish and a great shine.

[volvo again]

2K paint uses Isocyanate Hardeners which are harmful to both humans and animals, and are known to cause cancer and other serious respiratory illnesses, hence the need for breathing equipment.
However it's now possible to get Non-Isocyanate Hardeners, gives the same 2k results.
2K paint is much harder than 1k or acrylic, doesn't always need a clearcoat.
Cellulose is still available but needs a lot of flatting & compounding to obtain a good gloss, it can be lacquered on top

If you can, try to get everything from the same manufacturer, this could save any reaction between different makes

[Luxobarge]

Originally Posted by volvo again

However it's now possible to get Non-Isocyanate Hardeners, gives the same 2k results.

Ah! Thanks for that - things have indeed moved on then, since I last did any proper spraying. Thanks for that.

In that case, if it were me I'd go for the option of "safe" 2K paint - will end up much more like the original finish and toughness.

[volvo again]

Jawel paints have a good range and also some very good tips if you browse through their site...have a look at 'painters guide' on the left of the page

https://www.jawel.co.uk/

[Austin160]

In addition to the very important health issues which will prevent the not correctly equipped DIYer using 2k paint and lacquer, you also have to consider the high degree of masking necessary when using this system.
Unlike cellulose, where you only have to mask off the surrounds of the area you are spraying, with 2K, you have to cover the whole vehicle ( and whatever else is in the garage) otherwise the overspray settles out as adhering hardening paint dust, and is a devil to subsequently remove - unlike cellulose overspray which can be just dusted odd.