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Turbo - it's out, what next?

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Old Aug 1st, 2019, 22:19   #1
Mistero
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Default Turbo - it's out, what next?

Following massive oil usage, and various other indications, plus a code analysis by the garage in Leeds, I summised that my turbo seals have gone, a fact verified by repeated DPF blocking, quantities of oil found in the forced air pipe which runs under the engine and the pipe from turbo to the air filter housing, plus the small volume of oil in the coolant header tank. Anyway, it's been a bit of a slog to remove it but the turbo is now out and being examined / rebuilt by a Garrett specialist.

So I have some questions on which I'd really appreciate some guidance, please.
1) What should I be cleaning / checking / flushing while the turbo's out?
2) Is there a special lubrication / coolant routine required when refitting and before the first start?
3) Is there anything else I need to be aware of?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2019, 06:52   #2
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Clean all pipework contaminated by oil. Or you can run an oil solvent through the pipes and the inter cooler

Clean EGR and make sure it operates freely

Clean the MAF gently and carefully

Ideally, remove DPF and get it professionally cleaned with solvents and then baked in a furnace.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2019, 17:52   #3
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Many thanks Swiss. I'm going to refill as much lubricant / coolant into the turbo pipes as I can, as I refit it, (rather than wait until the end).

I heard from the turbo service agent today - not good news; seals have gone, end float which has lead to the blades hitting the casing, worn shaft, juddery operation from the actuator and exhaust impeller damage from 'an object'. Judging by other threads on this subject I'm guessing the 'object' may be part of a piston ring.

Again, thanks for guidance provided.
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Old Aug 19th, 2019, 09:29   #4
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Update. Rebuilt turbo is back and shiny with most of its internal components replaced. AET supplied a gasket kit and fitting instructions and I've throughly flushed and cleaned the oil supply and drain pipes, but I have a question re priming the unit with oil.
Basically, when in place, the oil feed pipe is fixed at both ends and doesn't have any flexibility to facilitate top up at the left hand side of the engine where it connects with the oil pump. Additionally, the instructions say to check the unit is receiving and draining correctly by disconnecting the drain pipe and running to a catch can. I think this is impossible because the drain pipe is rigid and held into the block by the support bracket for the first soot filter.
Suggestions as to how to prime it greatly appreciated, please. Thanks.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2019, 12:46   #5
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Is priming of the oil supply line necessary?
If the lines are flushed and cleaned (how?) and the oil pump works, wouldn't the line fill instantly upon start-up?
Similarly, wouldn't the drain line just work?
Assembly grease in the turbo's bearings would prevent wear during this brief time period.

If priming is required you'd think a port would've been built into the side of these pipes.
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Old Aug 25th, 2019, 07:17   #6
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Thanks for your reply. I'm hoping it's going to be how you describe because the way the lubrication and coolant pipes 'crowd' round eachother in the turbo's centre bearings makes it difficult.
AET (the turbo people I used) have a helpline so I'll use that and I'll add oil and coolant to the turbo's feed pipes as I go along. That's my plan.
Thanks again.
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Old Aug 26th, 2019, 12:25   #7
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You could probably remove an electrical connector from the fuel pump(or similar component required for starting the engine) and turn the engine over with the starter motor a few times for a few seconds. That would then prime the turbo with oil before you reconnect the connector and start the engine.
Can anyone suggest a suitable electrical connector to remove?
This approach may trigger some fault codes but they should hopefully clear on start up - can anyone comment?
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Old Aug 26th, 2019, 15:19   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonygreen1966 View Post
You could probably remove an electrical connector from the fuel pump(or similar component required for starting the engine) and turn the engine over with the starter motor a few times for a few seconds. That would then prime the turbo with oil before you reconnect the connector and start the engine.
Can anyone suggest a suitable electrical connector to remove?
This approach may trigger some fault codes but they should hopefully clear on start up - can anyone comment?
You could remove the fuel pump fuse.
But the fuel rail will still be pressurized, and the engine will probably still start and run for a few seconds....

Or you could unplug the injectors, and then no fuel will flow...

All actions will log fault codes, which will clear when fixed, but leave a logged fault.

And all at YOUR risk. These are only suggestions.
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Last edited by SwissXC90; Aug 26th, 2019 at 15:22.
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Old Aug 26th, 2019, 23:07   #9
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Thanks Tony, thanks Swiss. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks again.
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