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How to: Manual EPB removal/wind off

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Old Sep 22nd, 2019, 19:08   #41
Ian21401
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Default Re the Volvo Brake Pad Kit. VO31445796

Replaced rear brake pads on daughter's 2011 XC70 a few days ago using the 9volt PP9 battery method to wind the EPB motor back.
I had the car up on axle stands and after loosening the wheel bolts I put the parking brake off.
As stated elsewhere care is required to release the catch on the inboard side of the electrical plug when removing it, otherwise it was very easy. Old pads were well worn down, the outer ones to 2.00 mms so motor took a while to wind all the way back. Once motor wound back, opened caliper bleed nipple (previously treated with releasing fluid) and pushed piston back with standard brake piston compressing tool.
I had obtained OE pads kit as above from my main dealer.
It contained four "spring clips" and four pads.
Upon first inspection the four "spring clips" appear identical, but they are not. Two have a thin rubber coating on the side which fits against the caliper bracket and on closer inspection they also have an extra tab. The instruction leaflet points this out and states that these clips must be fitted to the upper part of the caliper bracket. (i.e. the disc is turning towards them ).
Okay, understood, BUT
The four pads in the kit have two different part numbers on them.
Two marked with 32337286 and two marked with 32411312. All four pads appeared physically identical but the friction material on one pair did appear to be slightly different to the material on the other pair.
I could not find any reference to this in the instruction leaflet so queried it with the main dealer. The parts assistant produced an identical kit which also had the two different pad part numbers within it. After checking with the service staff he informed me that:
Pad part number 32337286 should be fitted on the inboard side of the caliper, i.e. against the piston.
Pad part number 32411312 should be fitted on the outboard side of the caliper.
He also confirmed that the instruction leaflet does not make any reference to this.
Having reassembled the brakes I wound the EPB motor back in by reversing the polarity of the battery leads.
After refitting the road wheels and before lowering the car back onto it’s wheels I checked that each motor was operating correctly by applying the brake off and on and checking that the wheels were locked or free to rotate as they should.
Well pleased as I had approached this job with some trepidation as never having worked on EPB before but it was a doddle.

Ian

Last edited by Ian21401; Sep 22nd, 2019 at 20:27. Reason: Add text.
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Old Jan 12th, 2020, 22:03   #42
Zebster
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After an MOT failure a couple of days ago for excessively worn rear brake pads, I decided to follow this guide. Given that the guide had been originally written around a previous model I was a bit cautious, however it seems that Volvo have carried over that same rear braking system with no changes that were obvious to me! Rather than remove the motor from the caliper I decided to use a PP3 battery applied to the EPB assembly terminals to unwind the mechanism. I would suggest that using anything 'beefier' than this would be a mistake, as the PP3 limited power delivery avoids damaging the motor when it hits it's limit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by green van man View Post
Thinking on this, if one were to obtain an epb plug with a pair of wires, fit a pair of crocodile clips to said wires and use this to connect from the slave battery to the motor...
That's a good suggestion, however instead I fixed the battery connector flying leads to a pair of 30mm long M4 screws which I then attached to either side of a lolly stick using hot melt glue, setting the screws to then project outwards at roughly the same spacing as the motor connector pins. I then cable-tied the battery lower down on the stick... Making this 'tool' is obviously not strictly necessary, but it did make it easier to operate the motor by simply prodding it into the connector, rather than having carefully hold and then line up the loose wires to make a reliable connection (and all the components were things I had laying around in the shed) and it saved me having to obtain a connector. And it's easy to reverse the polarity by turning it round (I would post pictures but whenever I've posted on the forum I always insert a giant picture that dwarfs the page).

To unwind the calipers requires the positive connection to be applied to the upper connection of the motor on the driver side (UK RHD car) and the lower connection on the passenger side... I wound until they stopped (took about 15 seconds). Then obviously vice versa to apply the brakes afterwards, which I did to save the car having to do this and possibly getting confused (plus it also made it far easier to tighten the disc retaining screws, as I also had to replace both rear discs).

Quote:
Originally Posted by sheaton View Post
The worst part is releasing the plug from the EPB. It is probably woth repeating that bit (I broke the first connector before realising this).

The part of the connector which is fixed to the motor body has a small projection (like a ski ramp) on the back. The free part of the connector which is on the cable has a clip which rides up the ramp when the connector is pushed home, until clip reaches the end of the ramp and drops drops off the end, so clipping it in place securely.

To release it, you need to insert the screwdrive upwards (running it close to the body of the fixed part of the connector). As you do this, it will lift the clip away from the end of the ramp, and so allow you to pull the connector off.
Amen to that! Great advice and using a mirror and torch made this part of the job fairly easy.

The caliper bolts were incredibly tight - probably due to the thread/stud lock used - and the 13mm AF heads had an unusually low profile, resulting in the standard 12-point socket initially slipping off as soon as I applied some serious torque. I was quite worried about this but then discovered that an old 1/2" socket I found was actually a much nicer fit (and was also a 6-point type as an added bonus).

A massive thanks to everyone who has contributed to this really useful thread.
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Old Apr 8th, 2020, 16:59   #43
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My rear pads are down to 3mm and can’t get it replaced at dealership as it’s closed. My local garage is open and showed him this guide.
He is happy to try it so fingers crossed it works as I need the car for work.

Just noticed this guide is for V70, hopefully this is the same for my 17 reg S90?
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Old Jul 17th, 2020, 23:49   #44
Baggiebird8
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Smile Replaced rear brake pads and discs on 2015 XC70

Hi All,

I wish I had seen this very useful guide before I started the job! I made the mistake of trying to use a copy of VIDA that I had obtained. The advantage I thought would be that the wind back of the caliper would be easier. The VIDA copy worked OK until the car battery voltage dropped. I have not used it much recently due mainly to the Covid-19 pandemic and staying at home. What I learned from doing this work for the first time:

1. The bolts (15mm hexagon screws) for the caliper carrier to the suspension arm are quite tight due to threadlock.

2. The bolts (13mm hexagon screws) for the caliper are also fairly tight due to corrosion and threadlock>

3. New bolts (1 and 2 above) with threadlock on them are included with Volvo supplied pads and discs.

4. I would recommend the manual method for winding the back of the caliper with a torx type tool and then closing up the piston with a g clamp and suitable padding/wood to protect the drive plate.

5. The O ring seal for the motor cost an eye watering £23 + vat from a Volvo dealer. This is ridiculous for a heat resistant O ring and 2 T30 torx screws!! I have actually complained to Volvo UK about this price. In the event the O ring is likely to be reusable, but always handy to have one just in case.

6. All the parts were very well made IMO, and fitted without problems

I am getting around 30 000 miles from a set of pads and discs and wondered what sort of mileage others achieve. I perhaps could have left the discs in place as they had not reached the wear limit (19mm) but were noticeably 'lipped'.
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Old Jul 11th, 2023, 18:59   #45
Paww
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baggiebird8 View Post
Hi All,

I wish I had seen this very useful guide before I started the job! I made the mistake of trying to use a copy of VIDA that I had obtained. The advantage

3. New bolts (1 and 2 above) with threadlock on them are included with Volvo supplied pads and discs.

4. I would recommend the manual method for winding the back of the caliper with a torx type tool and then closing up the piston with a g clamp and suitable padding/wood to protect the drive plate.

5. The O ring seal for the motor cost an eye watering £23 + vat from a Volvo dealer. This is ridiculous for a heat resistant O ring and 2 T30 torx screws!! I have actually complained to Volvo UK about this price. In the event the O ring is likely to be reusable, but always handy to have one just in case.

6. All the parts were very well made IMO, and fitted without problems

I am getting around 30 000 miles from a set of pads and discs and wondered what sort of mileage others achieve. I perhaps could have left the discs in place as they had not reached the wear limit (19mm) but were noticeably 'lipped'.
I think you mean 9mm? My new pattern ones are 10.5 mm out of the box.

I’ve a bucketful of lights on the dash so went for a Foxwell 530 dedicated to Volvo. Seriously miffed that despite offering to put the brake into service mode it hasn’t done it despite three attempts. Given its just a polarity change to advance or retract I get all sorts of stuff that tries to explain but just confuses. I had to buy a cheap windows computer to actually initiate the Foxwell! There’s me thinking I was rid of windows ten years ago and yet its back in the house again. Still not intuitive but a lot better at getting from one end of a task to the other.
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