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Volvo 940 Wanting to Cut Out on Startup in Mornings

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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 12:51   #21
albertsmith
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Lubricated valve with penetrating oil. Started ok. Running better but as a matter of course we are replacing the distributor cap, rotor arm, fuel relay, new fuel sender (broken) etc and we have to reposition the new horn we got as the the connectors rusted away, so need to find a new postion for the horn.
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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 12:56   #22
ovlov236
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Hi Albert
sorry to hear about your problems have you checked the following

1/ fuel pressure regulator pull off the vaccum hose while engine idling does the idle speed pickup if so your fpr is good ?

2/ground wires on the injectors make sure they are nice and clean these wire send a signal to the oygen sensor because the resistance is high if the grounds are not nice and clean sending excess oxegen which thinks its a lean condition and calls for more gas

3/ Temp sensor is out of spec


4/ Faulty amm make sure the cannistor the charcoal cannistor is not faulty allowing vacuum to suck fuel from tank to intake manifold though it causing a rich engine running condition
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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 12:59   #23
Stephen Edwin
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The valve is outside my experience. But in general.

Did you use WD40, excellent for dispersing damp? Or?

Did you use say Plus Gas. A penetrating & lubricating oil / service spray? Also available in traditional cans with a metal spout. That is recommended at engineers' trade counters. And often available in car accessory shops.
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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 13:53   #24
Laird Scooby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albertsmith View Post
Right now hes cleaned the idle control valve with carb cleaner its now lumpy and burning black smoke fromengine so the cleaner has made it worse. You can smell the carb cleaner. It was black inside, its now shiny.

How long should we leave it before starting car again?
Obviously it's shifted some dirt/oil/gunge from somewhere.

Clean it again, give the throttle body a clean as well, start the car and keep the revs up at or slightly above 2000rpm until the smoke and smell disappears from the exhaust. The trouble is, it sounds as if you've switched the engine off to come and write the post so whatever was liquid ish after being dissolved by the carb cleaner has now solidified again as it's cooled down and the solvent has evaporated. That's why i said clean it again then use the engine running to "vacuum" the remains out of it.

Then, take it for a run to blow the final cobwebs out of the system.
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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 16:44   #25
albertsmith
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Gave it a squirt with Tigris pen oil (not wd 40). Started up idling settled down, driving around this afternoon. Still going to cover the other points described on here. What is the large black Cylinder behind the radiator on the passenger side, two pipes coming off to the inlet manifold??

Need to source a fuel sender unit too, aftermarket or original.

Thanks
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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 16:46   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin View Post
The valve is outside my experience. But in general.

Did you use WD40, excellent for dispersing damp? Or?

Did you use say Plus Gas. A penetrating & lubricating oil / service spray? Also available in traditional cans with a metal spout. That is recommended at engineers' trade counters. And often available in car accessory shops.
Used Tigris. not wd40. We had to look at videos to find where the pcv valve is, still couldnt find it. Haynes manual was rubbish for info.
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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 17:15   #27
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
take it for a run to blow the final cobwebs out of the system.


Please be sure that the hedgehogs do not eat the spiders that built the cobwebs.


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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 17:44   #28
Laird Scooby
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What is the large black Cylinder behind the radiator on the passenger side, two pipes coming off to the inlet manifold??

Need to source a fuel sender unit too, aftermarket or original.

Thanks
Sounds like the oil separator with the flame trap sat on top, connected by a short length of hose. That all needs cleaning out internally with carb cleaner as well.

THen pull fuse #1 for a few minutes and refit before trying to start it.

Why do you think you need a fuel sender?
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Old Nov 17th, 2018, 19:56   #29
mocambique-amazone
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Charcoal canister ;-)

The black cylinder behind the left front beam
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Old Nov 20th, 2018, 11:40   #30
albertsmith
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
Sounds like the oil separator with the flame trap sat on top, connected by a short length of hose. That all needs cleaning out internally with carb cleaner as well.

THen pull fuse #1 for a few minutes and refit before trying to start it.

Why do you think you need a fuel sender?
The fuel gauge wangs over to the right for a minute even though you only put £10 of fuel in. So its reading incorrectly.

My husband has tried finding the oil separator and flame trap. How much are these, it could probably do with a new one and new hose.
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