Oops I did it again

[Magyver]

Sooo not having learned my lesson with a 480 waaay back when (those pop up lights), I just bought a V70 2.5t SE (2002) with rediculously low mileage. Obviously there are a few common (I am now discovering) problems such as Alarm service warning (corroded battery I assume), drivers lock constantly popping up on remote lock (UEM reset didn't work), interior passeneger lights corroded switches (cleaned up now and working-ISH) but one thing that has me stumped is the rear left fog light not working. The bulb is fine and I am assuming it's a common fuse as opposed to a fuse for the left and one for the right so what are the likely scenarios here.
Any and all suggestions most gratefully received.
Including what to do/check as it's my first v70 and I don't know what it may have undergone with it's previous owner.
😀

[reggit]

Left as in nearside? It’s not wired in from new. Some have linked it to the offside one to make it work.

MOT only requires driver side one (or centre) to function.

[Georgeandkira]

1) The infamous "Stop Neutral" feature MAY have been left installed such that it caused damage to the trannie's inwards. It appears that the feature was such a boner (as in bone headed) it was removed summarily around the world.

2) The previous owner obeyed the STUPID notice that the transmission fluid was "lifelong". Completely impossible. Red and clear fluid is OK. Search "correct fluid"..HINT: It ain't rocket science nor as dire end-of-the-world scenario as many say. If the fluid is dirty, change it.

3) The several soldered joints in the DIM might need addressing at some point.
The production flaw here is of reformulated solder or cold joints opening -usually when the car gets warm. Removal of the DIM is easy and there are people who fix 'em affordably. You can actually live with a bad DIM if you can fathom basic fuel mileage math. See if the blue indicator for the high beams comes on. Its failure to come on with the brights is one of the first symptoms.

4) The old design ETM may require rebuilding when the mylar positioning strip wears. Again, removal is dead easy and companies rebuild ETMs affordably.

Beware of the "rebuild them yourself" kits said to be offered on the internet. Each time I went to look at them the sites were suspiciously shoddy looking. Still, people here have posted success with them. Do what you like.

NOTE: My 2002's ETM was trouble free through 198,600 miles when I sold the car. I am a steady driver who makes frequent long trips. I suppose goosing around town 100% of the time wears 'em faster.....probably not worth thinking about.

5) ABSOLUTELY inspect the rear hand brake hardware. This requires removal of the rear rotors. Pay for it to be done before purchase and use shabby hardware to lower the price. It isn't dear to maintain but if the brake shoe lining delaminates at speed a bunch of damage can result.

6) If the previous owner failed to change the oil or used inadequate oil there may be chunks of sludge in the engine. At 16 years of age the PCV hardware will need replacing anyway so the cost of that collection of replacement parts (hoses, catch box and clamps) and installation is coming your way. No biggie really.

Use only 0W-30 or 0W-40 oils which are turbo heat capable. Someone here will be along to give you a brand name available over there.

Bargain oils are the mark of the "dippy-doo". Don't be a dippy-doo.

7) The low mileage may not help you with the exhaust system. Frequent short trips will deposit moisture in the system so it may rot from within....again, over 16 years.

8) Pay to have the car hooked up to a VIDA at a dealership because I just had the idea that some dishonest person may have installed the DIM from a low mileage wreck into this car. They say CANBUS communications won't establish in a car so tampered with.

Best of luck with it. G&K