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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Water pumpViews : 1209 Replies : 16Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 5th, 2018, 21:03 | #11 |
Master Member
Last Online: Today 00:42
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Location: Nottingham
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Forgot to update this post... must be the heat!
Changed the pump with no major dramas... copperslip was used (as always on re-assembly) and I'd already seen the posted video. Mine wasn't quite that easy to change - slight corrosion on the metal water pipe (the long one to the heather matrix) meant the rubber o ring wouldn't fit in the pump housing. Cleaned the pipe up and all was well. No sign of any leaks! Forgot to add: thanks for all the advice given. Mike |
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Aug 5th, 2019, 22:30 | #12 | |
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Aug 6th, 2019, 18:24 | #13 |
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Last Online: Today 01:38
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Location: Connecticut, USA
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sl;
There is a looong list of things that I would check and assure were right, before suspecting the WaPu...if at all!...I mean there's nothing to go wrong with this simple component from the standpoint of being able to move the coolant along...and don't tell me about an eroded impeller!...I've heard about those for 30 years and still have yet to see one (on a Volvo anyway)...here is the only known picture I'm aware of, of one of these: Fact is that most vintage Volvos run hot at idle in the summer, when the shedding of heat from the Rad is at its least effectiveness...so no surprise there!...often simply revving the engine for a moment brings temp relief...only after all the below items have been checked, and you are still unsatisfied with cooling, should/may you consider the installation of an Electric Cooling Fan! * List (somewhat in order that I can quickly think of and importance) - Proper Coolant level, with no air pockets! - Properly tightened (but not over-tightened!) Fanbelt? - Adequate flow through a Rad and engine block (free of deposits)? - A temperature indication that can be trusted (calibration of Temp Ind verified?...particularly your E with it's VStab!), and Rad/Exp Tank Pressure Cap is working correctly to allow Cooling Sys to be at pressure? (this obviously does not affect running hot, just point at which sys boils over!) - Ignition Timing is correct and not retarded (engine generates more heat!). Others are welcome to add to this list! See also: https://www.sw-em.com/Cooling_System.htm Good Hunting! |
Aug 7th, 2019, 01:22 | #14 |
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Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 12:47
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Location: Thorndon, near Eye, Suffolk, England
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Very many thanks, Ron.
I am pretty sure I have most issues covered. Rad is recored, engine rebuilt, done my best to burp the baby, but I'm not thoroughly convinced as I haven't noticed any bubbling when filling, using the technique you kindly provide. I fitted a Revotec 11inch sucking fan today (fits perfectly, with tight clearance to pulley boss) and it seems to work well, keeping the temp gauge out of the red at tickover, although today was not as warm as it has been. I did note that my rad cap is seeping, so have ordered a new one. Re VStab, does the fact that my fuel gauge reads ok indicate VStab ok? I've half a mind just to replace it anyway..... |
Aug 7th, 2019, 01:42 | #15 |
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sl;
VStab supplies Coolant and Oil Temp gauges as well as Fuel gauge, so if that is not reading high or oddly, you don't need to suspect VStab...but if any of the gauges act unusually, it is the common element for all three. See also: https://www.sw-em.com/voltage_stabilizer.htm Cheers |
Aug 7th, 2019, 08:25 | #16 |
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Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 12:47
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RK, thanks (again!).
You have saved me £18.90. I am from Yorkshire where we are known to have "short arms and deep pockets", so this is a significant win for me! Seriously, I am v new to Volvo ownership and this forum has enhanced my experience massively. |
Aug 7th, 2019, 13:42 | #17 |
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Last Online: Yesterday 17:01
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Location: Chatham
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If your engine rebuild included a rebore/new pistons and rings, you should expect it to run a bit hotter during running in. After a thousand mile or so you should start to see the needle being less inclined to creep towards the red.
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