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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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Water pump

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Old Aug 5th, 2018, 21:03   #11
Faust
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Forgot to update this post... must be the heat!

Changed the pump with no major dramas... copperslip was used (as always on re-assembly) and I'd already seen the posted video.

Mine wasn't quite that easy to change - slight corrosion on the metal water pipe (the long one to the heather matrix) meant the rubber o ring wouldn't fit in the pump housing. Cleaned the pipe up and all was well.

No sign of any leaks!

Forgot to add: thanks for all the advice given.

Mike
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Old Aug 5th, 2019, 22:30   #12
sleek lemur
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Originally Posted by woodman View Post
Mike, a word of warning. Last year I had to change the water pump three times! The old one was getting noisy, so I changed it for a new one from Brookhouse while I was doing another job. After running the engine for about 20 minutes, the bearing on the new pump went. Exchanged it for another one from Brookhouse, that one only ran for 5 minutes before the bearing went. Simon obviously refunded, but I said I didn't want another from the same supplier. I found an NOS one on ebay that was a different make (I forget what), fitted that and it's been fine ever since (about 4,000-5,000 miles).

I trust Brookhouse in principle, and they're so knowledgeable and helpful, but the parts are only as good as the suppliers, and over the years I've bought many duff parts from there which have had a major impact in terms of time and labour cost of repeating jobs. I would say that sub-standard parts are the main cause of unreliability with my car. Mainly water pumps, alternators and anything made of rubber. Plus a new piston that cracked and damaged a recently rebuilt engine. In each case, I've ended up figuring out alternative solutions. I imported an alternator from the USA, found a water pump on ebay, and generally I avoid buying things made of rubber and choose polyurethane options wherever possible.

At the very least, try and get as much information off the new water pump as you can before you fit it, so that if it does let you down you can make sure you replace it with one that isn't the same make or batch.
I recently bought an 1800E, with a new water pump. The car overheats at tickover. Folk have been very helpful and now I've distilled the problem down to the water pump (I believe!). I was going to fit an electric fan in any case, so I'm going to do that and see how we go.
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Old Aug 6th, 2019, 18:24   #13
Ron Kwas
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sl;

There is a looong list of things that I would check and assure were right, before suspecting the WaPu...if at all!...I mean there's nothing to go wrong with this simple component from the standpoint of being able to move the coolant along...and don't tell me about an eroded impeller!...I've heard about those for 30 years and still have yet to see one (on a Volvo anyway)...here is the only known picture I'm aware of, of one of these:



Fact is that most vintage Volvos run hot at idle in the summer, when the shedding of heat from the Rad is at its least effectiveness...so no surprise there!...often simply revving the engine for a moment brings temp relief...only after all the below items have been checked, and you are still unsatisfied with cooling, should/may you consider the installation of an Electric Cooling Fan!

* List (somewhat in order that I can quickly think of and importance)

- Proper Coolant level, with no air pockets!
- Properly tightened (but not over-tightened!) Fanbelt?
- Adequate flow through a Rad and engine block (free of deposits)?
- A temperature indication that can be trusted (calibration of Temp Ind verified?...particularly your E with it's VStab!), and Rad/Exp Tank Pressure Cap is working correctly to allow Cooling Sys to be at pressure? (this obviously does not affect running hot, just point at which sys boils over!)
- Ignition Timing is correct and not retarded (engine generates more heat!).

Others are welcome to add to this list!

See also: https://www.sw-em.com/Cooling_System.htm

Good Hunting!
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Old Aug 7th, 2019, 01:22   #14
sleek lemur
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Very many thanks, Ron.

I am pretty sure I have most issues covered. Rad is recored, engine rebuilt, done my best to burp the baby, but I'm not thoroughly convinced as I haven't noticed any bubbling when filling, using the technique you kindly provide.

I fitted a Revotec 11inch sucking fan today (fits perfectly, with tight clearance to pulley boss) and it seems to work well, keeping the temp gauge out of the red at tickover, although today was not as warm as it has been. I did note that my rad cap is seeping, so have ordered a new one.

Re VStab, does the fact that my fuel gauge reads ok indicate VStab ok? I've half a mind just to replace it anyway.....
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Old Aug 7th, 2019, 01:42   #15
Ron Kwas
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sl;

VStab supplies Coolant and Oil Temp gauges as well as Fuel gauge, so if that is not reading high or oddly, you don't need to suspect VStab...but if any of the gauges act unusually, it is the common element for all three.

See also: https://www.sw-em.com/voltage_stabilizer.htm

Cheers
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Old Aug 7th, 2019, 08:25   #16
sleek lemur
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RK, thanks (again!).

You have saved me £18.90. I am from Yorkshire where we are known to have "short arms and deep pockets", so this is a significant win for me!

Seriously, I am v new to Volvo ownership and this forum has enhanced my experience massively.
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Old Aug 7th, 2019, 13:42   #17
Derek UK
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If your engine rebuild included a rebore/new pistons and rings, you should expect it to run a bit hotter during running in. After a thousand mile or so you should start to see the needle being less inclined to creep towards the red.
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