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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Restoring my P1800EViews : 23986 Replies : 185Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 7th, 2011, 09:36 | #171 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Aug 22nd, 2022 21:05
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Warwickshire
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Nice work as ever Mitch. I'm looking forward to seeing the car in a few weeks.
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Apr 7th, 2011, 21:54 | #172 |
Michael 1800E on carbs
Last Online: Mar 16th, 2014 09:25
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Long Load, Somerset
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Re: and the plan now is to use a MX5 as the platform or just the front and rear MX5 suspension which unbolts.... I know you've moved on a bit since this comment, but did you look into how 'easy' it is to unbolt MX5 axle & shove it in a standard P1800 chassis? I'm just working on my rear end as it were, & if instead of a refurb there was a fairly simple swap to MX5 that'd be nice! Cl;early hubs are wrong ... how good & easy fit is MX5 back axle into the hole where the original item went? Thanks for any advice.
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Apr 8th, 2011, 10:30 | #173 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Yesterday 18:30
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
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Hi Michael,
How easy or hard to fit the MX5 rear subframe is a question you need to answer for yourself as depends on your skills and experience. But it is definitely doable and would be a good upgrade. If doing the rear I'd also think of fitting the front with the steering rack. Advantages are you can have independent rear and front suspension, certain MX5s come with a limited slip, large selection of excellent suspension choices including height adjustable coilovers, disc brakes all round and bolt on big brake kits available, and non-powered or power assisted steering rack options. If fitting the MX5 rear subframe you should also consider stiffening the P1800 floor with triangulated (is that a word?) bracing as as ladder system like the P1800 has is not a stiff structure but add triangulated bracing will significantly increase the structure stiffness. Another area where the floor has it's stiffness is the tunnel so fully welding it and adding stiffener plates will also make a good difference and with independent suspension it will work much better with a stiff floor. This website http://www.miata.net/garage/alignment/index.html has good diagrams of the MX5 front and rear subframes so you will get an idea of what you're looking at. Fire me any questions and will try and answer them but I'm no expert on MX5s or P1800's. Cheers, Mitch |
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Apr 8th, 2011, 12:28 | #174 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Yesterday 18:30
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
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Hi Michael,
Also if someone thought about using the MX5 front subframe then the MX5 engine and 5 speed box could be fitted. And if looking for more HP there is turbo bolt on kits that can take it from standard up to 265Hp at the rear wheels without opening the engine. Just another option but obviously doing this sort of thing probably takes value off the car. Best way would be to buy a cheap 1.8l NA MX5 with a hard top then you can sell off the bits you don't want. £1000 for the car and you can sell the hardtops for £350 on ebay so you could get your money back from the purchase of the car by breaking it if you wanted. The MX5 seats are also a nice upgrade for the P1800. Cheers, Mitch |
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Apr 13th, 2011, 03:02 | #175 | |
New Member
Last Online: Jan 13th, 2014 20:18
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Location: Vancouver
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I'm not so sure this is a fair statement- regarding the amount of work. One never knows what lies under the paint until it is removed.
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Apr 13th, 2011, 06:23 | #176 | |
Trader
Last Online: Aug 1st, 2014 05:07
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Madill
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Quote:
If I run into too much rust, believe me, I will be looking at Mitch's Thread for direction. Hell, I may have to convince him to come and take care of it.. ha ha I had some fairly solid floor pans, but I have some slight bubble here or there on the outer rocker and lower back panel, other than that, it seems solid.. I only made the dont get discouraged comment, because in one of his last post, it seems that he was going in that direction. And believe me, I know what happens when you get fed up and dont want to do anymore.. LOL I have had a few cars sitting around for quite awhile when they ****ed me off and I didnt want to dedicate the time anymore...
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Robert Jackson Classic Auto Glass Innovations Flush Mount Glass Classicautoglassinnovations.com Last edited by Iamtheonlyreal1; Apr 13th, 2011 at 06:28. |
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Apr 13th, 2011, 07:50 | #177 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Yesterday 18:30
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
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No offence was taken guys and I do have a lot of work ahead of me. I would have loved to have started with a better car but they are far and few between in the UK but am really enjoying the build but would just like to be further along.
I'm still fiddling with the windscreen aperture and scuttle fit. I was in the garage last night and I am slowly getting there. I tried the windscreen from my parts car and it is slightly different to the one I'm using but I'll keep using the original one. I'm getting the windscreen aperture repair I did spot on with the windscreen and then I'll tweak the scuttle to fit where necessary so I may need a bit of shrinking or stretching along the edge to get as close to spot on that I can get it. It's surprisingly a challengingly bit to get right. I think the guys in the factory even had fun with this as there were some nice hammer marks along the inside of the right side windscreen aperture. |
Apr 13th, 2011, 08:28 | #178 | |
Me ? Surely Not!
Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 19:48
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 2007 Volvo XC90 D5 Geartronic. South of Hadrians Wall.
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Quote:
Correct, this is my wifes 1997 1.8 Mk1 MX5 which i turbo'ed in 2004. It has never missed a beat over the years and still goes like stink. Darryl Last edited by S60D5-185; Apr 13th, 2011 at 11:06. |
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Apr 17th, 2011, 17:16 | #179 |
Chief Bodger
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Location: Aberdeen
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Finally got the fit right with the scuttle and windscreen aperture so decided it was time to prep and paint the lower scuttle and underneath the top scuttle section. So I stripped it all back, spayed everything with metal ready and let it soak for a good while then washed it all off and dried the surfaces, then did one coat of POR-15, will do another before painting two coats of POR-15 tie coat primer.
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Nov 9th, 2011, 12:49 | #180 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Yesterday 18:30
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
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All keen again to get back on the P1800 project
It's amazing how you forget things. Looking through my old posts here this lunch after reading the recent post about P1800 panels and repairs and it amazes me how much I have done so far on the P1800 and how much I enjoyed it. I need to get back working on the P1800 so am going to bring my tools back this weekend and make a start again next week. Bring on those cold winter nights welding upside down and catching on fire again... ;-)
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