Engine: 2.3 F/Inj B23E/B230F: - 17.41 Cam belt fails > 18.20 continue journey - Page 3

Clifford Pope · Nov 14th, 2006, 08:41

I think it's a good idea to turn it over 2 complete turns by hand anyway, regardless of interference or not. That way you can see that the belt is staying centralised on the sprockets. If it is not quite straight to start with it can gradually creep to one edge. It also helps to take up any initial stretchiness, so worth slackening and retightening the tensioner after this stage.

ravennexus · Dec 10th, 2006, 11:36

visual inspection on belts is good. they need to be changed well before they look like this

we found this when steve (doke?) cam up to my house to have me assist in putting in his New IPD turbo cam and new front seals. (having a nearly full redblock shim kit helps)

ravennexus · Dec 10th, 2006, 11:44

PS ipd turbo cam will make it an interference engine but it'll haul ass so thats a plus point.

molening · Dec 18th, 2006, 23:20

Attention all B200F owners

If your belt breaks call for a breakdown truck not a new belt.

See my posts earlier this year 4 bent exahust valves.

Cheers

Barry

stuckcrank · Aug 2nd, 2010, 18:07

I would be extremely grateful if someone could offer some advice on changing the timing belt on my Volvo 245. I managed to get as far as getting access to the old belt and setting number 1 piston to tdc. My Haynes manual said something like I would "probably" need to stop the crankshaft turning in order to get the nut off the pulley. Too right! The manual said there is an access cover to the flywheel where a screwdriver could be wedged so the crankshaft wouldn't turn. I couldn't find an access cover and so could not wedge flywheel.

Any suggestions please.

Thanks a lot.

Clifford Pope · Aug 2nd, 2010, 21:00

There are several ways:
1) special tool that clamps pulley
2) big socket on nut, wedge long breaker bar against the chassis, give a quick flick of the starter motor
3) Put in 4th gear, handbrake on, try turning breaker bar by hand, or giving it a wack with a hammer
4) Impact wrench with air line
5) Rope trick - feed string into a plug hole, wind crank so that the piston is locked. Remove string afterwards!
6) Cheat - cut slit in lower plastic cover so that you can remove it, leaving the pulley in situ.

57RKL · Aug 3rd, 2010, 10:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

5) Rope trick - feed string into a plug hole, wind crank so that the piston is locked. Remove string afterwards!
.

I like the sound of this one. Silly question, but how much string does it take to jam it up ???

Clifford Pope · Aug 3rd, 2010, 12:52

About a yard? Of course it depends how thick the string is - just feed in a few feet and try it.

I haven't actually used it for removing the nut, but I have for removing valve springs to replace inlet valve stem seals.

Two warnings:
It is said that there is a risk of twisting the crankshaft using any method other than the proper tool to hold the pulley.
It is important that you jam the piston on a rising compression stroke, ie when both valves are closed.

Stephen Edwin · Aug 3rd, 2010, 13:03

So, what is the proper tool? Would the cost be similar to a garage charge to do the job?

Stephen Edwin · Aug 10th, 2013, 22:43

To answer myself:

Crankshaft Pulley Tool
Part number 9995284
£29.60 plus VAT. Less discount.
Dealer has to order it in, from Sweden ... takes about two working days.

Dec 18th, 2006, 23:20	#24
molening New Member Last Online: Dec 28th, 2009 23:45 Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Edinburgh	Don't try this in a B200F Attention all B200F owners If your belt breaks call for a breakdown truck not a new belt. See my posts earlier this year 4 bent exahust valves. Cheers Barry

Aug 2nd, 2010, 18:07	#25
stuckcrank New Member Last Online: Aug 2nd, 2010 18:10 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: York	1991 Volvo 245 B200F engine - timing belt I would be extremely grateful if someone could offer some advice on changing the timing belt on my Volvo 245. I managed to get as far as getting access to the old belt and setting number 1 piston to tdc. My Haynes manual said something like I would "probably" need to stop the crankshaft turning in order to get the nut off the pulley. Too right! The manual said there is an access cover to the flywheel where a screwdriver could be wedged so the crankshaft wouldn't turn. I couldn't find an access cover and so could not wedge flywheel. Any suggestions please. Thanks a lot.

Nov 14th, 2006, 08:41	#21
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Yesterday 19:44 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	I think it's a good idea to turn it over 2 complete turns by hand anyway, regardless of interference or not. That way you can see that the belt is staying centralised on the sprockets. If it is not quite straight to start with it can gradually creep to one edge. It also helps to take up any initial stretchiness, so worth slackening and retightening the tensioner after this stage.

Dec 10th, 2006, 11:36	#22
ravennexus Member Last Online: Nov 4th, 2018 15:48 Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: rhyl	visual inspection on belts is good. they need to be changed well before they look like this we found this when steve (doke?) cam up to my house to have me assist in putting in his New IPD turbo cam and new front seals. (having a nearly full redblock shim kit helps)

Dec 10th, 2006, 11:44	#23
ravennexus Member Last Online: Nov 4th, 2018 15:48 Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: rhyl	PS ipd turbo cam will make it an interference engine but it'll haul ass so thats a plus point.

Aug 2nd, 2010, 21:00	#26
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Yesterday 19:44 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	There are several ways: 1) special tool that clamps pulley 2) big socket on nut, wedge long breaker bar against the chassis, give a quick flick of the starter motor 3) Put in 4th gear, handbrake on, try turning breaker bar by hand, or giving it a wack with a hammer 4) Impact wrench with air line 5) Rope trick - feed string into a plug hole, wind crank so that the piston is locked. Remove string afterwards! 6) Cheat - cut slit in lower plastic cover so that you can remove it, leaving the pulley in situ.

Aug 3rd, 2010, 12:52	#28
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Yesterday 19:44 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	About a yard? Of course it depends how thick the string is - just feed in a few feet and try it. I haven't actually used it for removing the nut, but I have for removing valve springs to replace inlet valve stem seals. Two warnings: It is said that there is a risk of twisting the crankshaft using any method other than the proper tool to hold the pulley. It is important that you jam the piston on a rising compression stroke, ie when both valves are closed.

Aug 3rd, 2010, 13:03	#29
Stephen Edwin Premier Member Last Online: Oct 26th, 2023 20:42 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Thurrock	So, what is the proper tool? Would the cost be similar to a garage charge to do the job?

Aug 10th, 2013, 22:43	#30
Stephen Edwin Premier Member Last Online: Oct 26th, 2023 20:42 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Thurrock	To answer myself: Crankshaft Pulley Tool Part number 9995284 £29.60 plus VAT. Less discount. Dealer has to order it in, from Sweden ... takes about two working days.

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