I Have Returned...

[Foeux]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

It's in here somewhere David :



This makes it easier :



The long black fill-tube pulls out, peel back (carefully) the rubber donut-shaped ring from the top of the reservoir and remove then lift out the strainer.

Soak both in a bowl of boiling water heavily drenched with white vinegar to remove the limescale. Concentrated lemon juice will also help if you don't have white vinegar.

Wash, rinse and dry both parts and clean the outside of the fill tube. Rub some silicone grease into the rubber-donut and let it soak in for 10-15 minutes then wipe off any excess, don't rub.

Then Haynes it and fill up a lot quicker than you used to!

If you feel energetic and want to remove the whole washer bottle, you can soak it overnight with either a couple of dishwasher tablets or half a dozen denture cleaning tablets (preferably extra strength version) and hot water.
Rinse and dry after. If you do that, take a note of where each screen wash pump lives and also remove the rubber grommet type seals for them - give them the same treatment as the donut-shaped bit.

Refit, job done!

This is really helpful and far more detailed than my lackadaisical explanation.

I wonder if my rear washer not working is a rear problem or a front (washer bottle end) problem.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Foeux

This is really helpful and far more detailed than my lackadaisical explanation.

I wonder if my rear washer not working is a rear problem or a front (washer bottle end) problem.

Could be a number of things. Easiest thing to start with is to disconnect the hose between the body and tailgate and operate the rear screen wash. First, can you hear the pump running? Second is do you get a jet of water out of the stub where you've disconnected the jet?

There are more steps if necessary to getting to the bottom of this but it depends what results you get from this.

[Foeux]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Could be a number of things. Easiest thing to start with is to disconnect the hose between the body and tailgate and operate the rear screen wash. First, can you hear the pump running? Second is do you get a jet of water out of the stub where you've disconnected the jet?

There are more steps if necessary to getting to the bottom of this but it depends what results you get from this.

I'll be out there after dinner....... Reporting back.

[Foeux]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Could be a number of things. Easiest thing to start with is to disconnect the hose between the body and tailgate and operate the rear screen wash. First, can you hear the pump running? Second is do you get a jet of water out of the stub where you've disconnected the jet?

There are more steps if necessary to getting to the bottom of this but it depends what results you get from this.

OK.

Hose disconnected. She is not a squirter but the pump is sounding.

My thinking goes a bit like this: If the tea strainer was all gummed up, perhaps the inner gubbins are too. I won't take it al apart on the drive and I won't do the 16 wheel shuffle to get it into the garage this evening. Wednesday will be the day of reckoning.

What tips have you got for getting to the root of the problem?

Thaks for the help and interest.

Fred.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Foeux

OK.

Hose disconnected. She is not a squirter but the pump is sounding.

My thinking goes a bit like this: If the tea strainer was all gummed up, perhaps the inner gubbins are too. I won't take it al apart on the drive and I won't do the 16 wheel shuffle to get it into the garage this evening. Wednesday will be the day of reckoning.

What tips have you got for getting to the root of the problem?

Thaks for the help and interest.

Fred.

First thing to check is the NRV (Non-Return Valve) ner the washer pimp. Disconnect the rubber hose from the inlet side of the NRV (sometimes also called a check valve) and operate the rear washers. If wet stuff squirts out, try bypassing the NRV and see what you've got.

Once you've got everything moving, adding a pint of white vinegar to the washer reservoir will help clean things through and it does a pretty good job of cleaning the widows too!

Might smell a bit like you've just ram-raided Harry Ramsdens but that's not a great problem really

[Foeux]

Dear Pals,

Thanks for the continued interest. I've sorted the squirter (see Video link below) and also changed the plugs and leads (looks like they wanted it).





Hope everyone is happy and well.

Best wishes and thanks very much for helping me,

F

VIDEO

[Laird Scooby]

Good shout on the plugs and leads, i take it you gapped the new plugs to 0.65-0.7mm before fitting?

You're right about the front washer pump being "gruntier". The rear pump only supplies washer fluid to the rear screen single jet. The front pump supplies not only the two screenwash jets but the headlight washer jets as well.

All in all some great work there and a satisfying result!

[Foeux]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Good shout on the plugs and leads, i take it you gapped the new plugs to 0.65-0.7mm before fitting?

You're right about the front washer pump being "gruntier". The rear pump only supplies washer fluid to the rear screen single jet. The front pump supplies not only the two screenwash jets but the headlight washer jets as well.

All in all some great work there and a satisfying result!

I did not gap the plugs but they all looked uniform in gap at least.

Not much of a pain to get them out and do it once I have some feelers.

Next thing I'd dearly love to do is give it a drive. Alas I can't; it is sent out in rotation with the other cars to do the shopping collections.

Two jobs upcoming are:

• Collect and install roof rack
• Collect and install dark grey leather interior

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Foeux

I did not gap the plugs but they all looked uniform in gap at least.

Not much of a pain to get them out and do it once I have some feelers.

The plugs look like NGKs and the default gap from factory is 0.9mm - this equates to having driven 20k miles on them in terms of gap size (plug gaps increase by 0.1mm per 10k miles in a normal, good engine) so i'd definitely suggest getting some feeler gauges and correcting the gaps on them.

[griston64]

Green book states 0.7-0.8 for my B230FK. I fitted new NGK plugs last year and when checked with feeler they were all a tight 0.8 so I didn't adjust and they have been fine.

The one nearest the distributor is a bit of a pain but using Dave's excellent hose pipe trick made it a lot easier