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Locked out (battery dead) but have the keys!

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Old Apr 28th, 2011, 16:57   #11
Luxobarge
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Originally Posted by acshortt5 View Post
It's because the deadlocks are engaged - that's why the door handles don't work.
Exactly right - that's why I suggested charging the battery, so you can effectively get in the way you're supposed to.
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Old Apr 28th, 2011, 17:12   #12
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Is there not a way of popping the bonnet from underneath? Or even just taking the plastic undertray off and try to get the +ve lead of a charger onto the battery from underneath? The -ve can go onto any part of the chassis.
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Old Apr 28th, 2011, 18:47   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acshortt5 View Post
It's because the deadlocks are engaged - that's why the door handles don't work.
What exactly is meant with the deadlocks are engaged? Is this the little electric emergency button underneath the window?

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Originally Posted by acshortt5 View Post
It will be very tricky doing it all the way from the boot but have you tried to get the bonnet lever with your wire?
I tried to reach the handle to open the bonnet with a long metal stick from within the boot, but because I have to pass that stick through the ski opening in the boot which is in the middle of the car) i cannot go around the front seat (the handle of the bonnet is very close to the door underneath the dashboard...)

trying it with the wire is practically impossible... distance from the boot till the bonnet handle is too far, so the wire cannot be handled precisely (it was already difficult to pass from one side of the car to the other side...)

tx everybody for thinking with me...
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Old Apr 28th, 2011, 18:49   #14
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Is there not a way of popping the bonnet from underneath? Or even just taking the plastic undertray off and try to get the +ve lead of a charger onto the battery from underneath? The -ve can go onto any part of the chassis.
I'm sure that could be done, but would it not just be easier to clip the charger on to the live side of the boot light like I suggested? Same effect....
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Old Apr 28th, 2011, 18:53   #15
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I'm sure that could be done, but would it not just be easier to clip the charger on to the live side of the boot light like I suggested? Same effect....
i prefer to not put the charger to any place of the car for now, i am afraid i could mess up the electronics system, so i shall better wait for the volvo engineer passing by before trying out that one...

I keep you posted about the outcome!

hubert from belgium
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Old Apr 28th, 2011, 19:45   #16
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It might be a good idea for everyone with a 850 based lock system up to 2000 to try their door key , make sure it opens the car ! The rod going from the lock barrell to the mechanism can corrode and break as it never gets used therefore not actualy unlocking the car when you use the key .
As Above , if the battery goes flat it is the only easy way of getting in the car ...
You cannot get this rod on it's own , a new key barrell is required complete with rod , matched to your car's key number .. from your dealer ..

now how many people tried this and found theirs broken? someone set up a poll ..
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Old Apr 28th, 2011, 19:55   #17
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A few years ago my 850 T5 suffered a flat battery. Deadlocks were on. Key worked in the lock but the locks would not disengage. I had to squeeze into the ski bit enough to reach the back seat unlock, crawl into the car, release the bonnet, remove battery, charge it, crawl back in, open bonnet refit battery and then the locks would disengage and only then.

Jim
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Old Apr 28th, 2011, 21:19   #18
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A few years ago my 850 T5 suffered a flat battery. Deadlocks were on. Key worked in the lock but the locks would not disengage. I had to squeeze into the ski bit enough to reach the back seat unlock, crawl into the car, release the bonnet, remove battery, charge it, crawl back in, open bonnet refit battery and then the locks would disengage and only then.

Jim
sound promising, Jim, except that my c70 is the convertible model with only a very small boot and cannot unlock the back seats... they are fixed

I fear however, that the rod is broken in my car, see prev mssg, because i can turn the key completely 360°
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Old Apr 28th, 2011, 23:19   #19
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lock out kit.......air bag that pulls the door out (no good for you hard top only) find a car with a long bonnet stay (hood) use that to hook the bonnet pull its going to be the way to do bend it and its strong enough to hook to the handle..........used to do it and have got in to many cars locks deadlocks etc even unwound man windows using the handle...
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Old Apr 28th, 2011, 23:48   #20
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Only just noticed this thread or I would have posted earlier.......

Deadlocked car with DUFF door lock ... the ONLY way to get in is as follows


1. Get under car.

2. Locate Starter motor & Main Feed

3. Connect Battery Charger (+) to main feed on Starter motor (Its the only cable that feeds DIRECTLY back to the battery) & can handle the current Connect (-) to Chassis.... doing it with the aforementioned "Boot Wiring" will FRY THE ELECTRICS)

4. Wait 30 Mins & then push the remote....Battery will have enought juice to unlock car....

NOTE*****

it WILL NOT make the car "CRANK" ( this will only happen if the Starter Solenoid is "Cross connected" to the starter main feed******)


I have had this on 2 of my Previous Saab's TRUST ME it IS the ONLY WAY to open the car. the Starter motor cable is the ONLY cable large enough to carry the current to charge the battery.

In the last of my Saab's I actually installed a "Flying Lead" connection under the passenger side front bumper, 1 large brass Bolt/Nut bolted to the bottom of the inner wing/bumper area with some very large Rubber washers ....


So for future reference... Car locked with dead Battery...

Connect Charger to Main Starter motor feed & Chassis (FROM UNDER CAR) IT IS THE ONLY WAY to open the vehicle ......
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