'96 960 Line Identified?

[Blacksmith]

Running over the top of the engine on my 1996 960 wagon is a small diameter green line (hose). I do not know the terminology of what it connects to (possibly a valve). The line needs replaced but I need to identify what it is in order to do so (order the right one!). I am certain on how to put the pic on here yet but I tried to attach one - it is not mine (I can also send). Thank you.

[360beast]

If it is just vacuum hose then all you need to buy is some vacuum hose of the right diameter and cut to length.

[rwdkev]

This light blue line controls the vacuum operated diaphragm valve for the secondary air injection. Check the condition of the black elbow that connects the vacuum line to the valve. The rubber elbow always perishes before the plastic pipe (as is the case with all these type of vacuum line) so I guess your pipe has been damaged if you are having to replace it...?

[Laird Scooby]

In addition to what Luke and Kevin have pointed out, if you are replacing the whole vacuum hose, do it as one piece so you bypass those rubber elbows that perish for a pastime.

I had to renew the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) on mine some time back and i noticed the rubber elbows were slightly perished so i bought a length of 4mm bore vacuum hose and replaced the vac line to the FPR in one complete length of hose. Reduces the places it can leak instantly by half and IMHO looks neater as well.

Check the diameter of the stub on your Pulsair vacuum solenoid (the black tower thing on the manifold) and you'll probably find it's around 4.3-4.7mm so 4mm bore vacuum hose will do perfectly. Obviously if it's a different size, get the one that will be tight on the stub.

You can even find coloured vac hose if you really want it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...&_sacat=107059

Pick your size, colour and length then order it and have fun fitting it!

[Blacksmith]

Thanks for the replies. I was a bit worried about placing another line (different from what was there) as I didn't know what it was meant for. Ended up doing as suggested and replacing the entire length of line and getting rid of the elbows that were also badly worn. The line itself was brittle and broke which is what started this. I could be reading into something that is not there, but sure seems to run smoother with a bit more pickup. Thanks again. Cheers!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Blacksmith

The line itself was brittle and broke which is what started this. I could be reading into something that is not there, but sure seems to run smoother with a bit more pickup. Thanks again. Cheers!

Any vacuum leak that isn't designed in will always cause running problems, unless there is another problem such as overfueling.
If you have air-con, you should find there is a vac line going to the interior light - that's where the cabin temperature sensor is for the A/C so pulls vacuum over the sensor to pull the air from the cabin to get a more accurate temperature reading. This is obviously designed in, brittle cracked and leaking vac lines aren't!

The sneaky vac line faults are the switched ones where a split line causes rough running when the ECU tells them to open or close and because of the split, they don't do as they're told.