B230FD Problems :)

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

I can try, but we found out it were the distributor that turned 180degrees. Timing belt is there nothing wrong with, the tensioner is new aswell

That's not physically possible for the distributor to turn 180 degrees. The original breakdown happened before you changed the leads, correct?

New leads didn't resolve the problem. Meanwhile during the fitting of the new leads, you had mixed up the firing order on the dizzy cap.

You then fitted (on my suggestion) a new ignition amp module and on Ruby37s suggestion, rechecked the order of the leads. Hey presto, it started!

I then advised you to do what is in the post above. You say you haven't done it. What you do say is you took it for a test drive. You haven't removed fuse #1 since. Where does the contact cleaner come in?

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

I tried contact cleaner on every socket.
Could lambda be full of soot and send Incorrect information to ecu?

If you've taken it for a test run as described and got it nice and hot with a long fast run, you should have cleaned the Lambda sensor.
However the ECU will have learned some very strange fuel trims as a result of the flooding caused by the non-start. For this reason, you neeed to remove fuse #1 for a few minutes to clear the fault codes and fuel trims from the ECU memory.

Then and only then, cnyou take it for another run and check to see if everything is as it should be. If it isn't by then, there is another problem.

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

That's not physically possible for the distributor to turn 180 degrees. The original breakdown happened before you changed the leads, correct?

New leads didn't resolve the problem. Meanwhile during the fitting of the new leads, you had mixed up the firing order on the dizzy cap.

You then fitted (on my suggestion) a new ignition amp module and on Ruby37s suggestion, rechecked the order of the leads. Hey presto, it started!

I then advised you to do what is in the post above. You say you haven't done it. What you do say is you took it for a test drive. You haven't removed fuse #1 since. Where does the contact cleaner come in?






If you've taken it for a test run as described and got it nice and hot with a long fast run, you should have cleaned the Lambda sensor.
However the ECU will have learned some very strange fuel trims as a result of the flooding caused by the non-start. For this reason, you neeed to remove fuse #1 for a few minutes to clear the fault codes and fuel trims from the ECU memory.

Then and only then, cnyou take it for another run and check to see if everything is as it should be. If it isn't by then, there is another problem.

Nope, the firing order is correct. Always been 4-3-1-2
The distributor changed position... so I changed the distributor 180degrees and it fired right up.

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

That's not physically possible for the distributor to turn 180 degrees. The original breakdown happened before you changed the leads, correct?

New leads didn't resolve the problem. Meanwhile during the fitting of the new leads, you had mixed up the firing order on the dizzy cap.

You then fitted (on my suggestion) a new ignition amp module and on Ruby37s suggestion, rechecked the order of the leads. Hey presto, it started!

I then advised you to do what is in the post above. You say you haven't done it. What you do say is you took it for a test drive. You haven't removed fuse #1 since. Where does the contact cleaner come in?







If you've taken it for a test run as described and got it nice and hot with a long fast run, you should have cleaned the Lambda sensor.
However the ECU will have learned some very strange fuel trims as a result of the
flooding caused by the non-start. For this reason, you neeed to remove fuse #1 for a few minutes to clear the fault codes and fuel trims from the ECU memory.

Then and only then, cnyou take it for another run and check to see if everything is as it should be. If it isn't by then, there is another problem.

The car is almost impossible to drive so I can’t take it for a long drive...when I first checked under the hood. I tested spark. Checked relays and fuses. Nothing. Checked rotor. Thought I found the problem but still didn’t start. Checked a new distributor. It didn’t start. New plugs and leads. Still didn’t start. Checked for vacuum leaks and bad ground. Still didn’t start. Changed ignition module. Still didn’t start. Took out the whole rotor and changed 180degrees. Fired right up.

[Laird Scooby]

Then there is a mechanical problem somewhere. You need to check the cam timing, the timing belt tension and ensure the belt hasn't jumped. Also ensure the drive dog between the camshaft and distributor hasn't failed. It's impossible to fit the rotor or distributor cap 180 degrees out because they are keyed so they won't fit.

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Then there is a mechanical problem somewhere. You need to check the cam timing, the timing belt tension and ensure the belt hasn't jumped. Also ensure the drive dog between the camshaft and distributor hasn't failed. It's impossible to fit the rotor or distributor cap 180 degrees out because they are keyed so they won't fit.

Worn rotor/distributor

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Then there is a mechanical problem somewhere. You need to check the cam timing, the timing belt tension and ensure the belt hasn't jumped. Also ensure the drive dog between the camshaft and distributor hasn't failed. It's impossible to fit the rotor or distributor cap 180 degrees out because they are keyed so they won't fit.

Hey, I think the butterfly valve on the TPS is clogged. But the potentiometer sensor I have to loosen a little bit and then adjust the tps? 0,15mm clearance?

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

Worn rotor/distributor

Timing strobe shows cyl4 is misfiring. On low rpm.
High rpm the engine runs fine. But on idle tachometer bounces up and down. I could try cleaning the throttle.

I also read this article. May I try this?


[[[[Here's what I just did 30 minutes ago to correct my drooping idle. I simply adjusted the TPS sensor screw and the idle raced up to 2000 rpm at first and when I put the car in gear it went down to 1000rpm but the idle was smooth and consistent. So I figured I may have adjusted it too much until I took it for a spin....and WOW!!! :mrgreen: I can feel a BIG difference in powerband and giddy-up and as I stopped and started from redlights the idle finally settled at 750-800rpm which was WAY better than jumping from 200rpm to 500rpm and back down to 300rpm and up again to 700rpm. such a annoying thing!!! :x ...but now.. the idle is smooth at 750-800rpm in gear with my foot on the brake and it holds at 1000rpm steady when the I shift the car into park. It's like the smallest Torx bit ever, but there is room for adjustment on the side of the TPS sensor bracket. I adjusted mine all the way out, which was only about 1mm. but it fixed my rattling idle!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

So if you are still having idle issues I would definitely try adusting the TPS sensor screw as part of tracking down the problem]]]]]]

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

Hey, I think the butterfly valve on the TPS is clogged. But the potentiometer sensor I have to loosen a little bit and then adjust the tps? 0,15mm clearance?

It's not a potentiometer!

It's two microswitches, one for idle and the other for WOT (Wide Open Throttle) but the WOT microswitch isn't used on turbo models.

The idle microswitch should be adjusted so it is on when the throttle butterfly is in the idle position but only after checking that the base idle speed (with AICV disconnected and blcoked off) is 500rpm.

For this you will have to sort the misfire on #4 cylinder first.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Volvo940GL

Timing strobe shows cyl4 is misfiring. On low rpm.
High rpm the engine runs fine. But on idle tachometer bounces up and down. I could try cleaning the throttle.

I also read this article. May I try this?


[[[[Here's what I just did 30 minutes ago to correct my drooping idle. I simply adjusted the TPS sensor screw and the idle raced up to 2000 rpm at first and when I put the car in gear it went down to 1000rpm but the idle was smooth and consistent. So I figured I may have adjusted it too much until I took it for a spin....and WOW!!! :mrgreen: I can feel a BIG difference in powerband and giddy-up and as I stopped and started from redlights the idle finally settled at 750-800rpm which was WAY better than jumping from 200rpm to 500rpm and back down to 300rpm and up again to 700rpm. such a annoying thing!!! :x ...but now.. the idle is smooth at 750-800rpm in gear with my foot on the brake and it holds at 1000rpm steady when the I shift the car into park. It's like the smallest Torx bit ever, but there is room for adjustment on the side of the TPS sensor bracket. I adjusted mine all the way out, which was only about 1mm. but it fixed my rattling idle!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

So if you are still having idle issues I would definitely try adusting the TPS sensor screw as part of tracking down the problem]]]]]]

Don't know where you found that article but i don't think it relates to your car!

[Volvo940GL]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Don't know where you found that article but i don't think it relates to your car!

I don’t know. That’s why I’m here
Could I clean idle control valve?