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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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VOLVO 960 3.0ltr AutoViews : 582 Replies : 11Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 24th, 2019, 02:13 | #1 |
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VOLVO 960 3.0ltr Auto
Hi All
We have come across an issue where our Volvo 960 3.0 Auto has had an ECU failure, unfortunately when the previous owner valeted the car it got water into the ECU and caused damage. If anyone has a car breaking please could you get in touch on 07956939603. The ECU is a BOSCH 0 261 203 854 We have a local breaker who is trying to sort something out but thought i would try here as well. (Read View Garage - Hapton) Highly recommended by the way! any help would be appreciated. Regards Javed |
Apr 24th, 2019, 09:16 | #2 |
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Can't help with the ECU but assuming the later models have the ECU in the same place as older models (drivers kick panel), i'd strongly suggest you find out just how the ECU got wet!
It's fairly well protected where it is and if water got into it, that suggests it has to come from above. In turn that suggests one or more from a badly sealed windscreen, serious corrosion around the screen, A-pillar/scuttle/bulkhead area, poorly done previous repairs (for example, it may have had a new wing at some point) or maybe somewhere else. Good luck in your quest for a replacement ECU but i'd look at how it got wet before you commit to buying a replacement - you may find the repairs to make sure the new one stays dry exceed the value of the car!
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Apr 24th, 2019, 10:19 | #3 |
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what year 960?
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Apr 24th, 2019, 10:59 | #4 | |
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Apr 26th, 2019, 00:20 | #5 |
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What are the symptoms you're getting? I was thinking about this today and it's unusual for an ECU to just fail, even if it has got wet, usually it will still do something.
It's very common that a car will be put into a garage for some work to be done and for the garage person to talk the fault up to an £OUCH level where the owner is at the point where they will take an offer of scrap value just to get something back on it as the repairs are (allegedly) going to cost more than the car is worth. The unscrupulous garage person (not necessarily the owner, sometimes the owners don't know this is happening) will make an offer of scrap value or just over, the unsuspecting victim hands over the keys and V5 and shuffles off to lick their financial (and sometimes emotional) wounds while the person who has just bought the car "for scrap" fixes a tuppence-ha'penny fault, slaps a new MoT on it, mops the bodywork and has it on ebay for £1000 more than it owes him.
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Apr 26th, 2019, 01:02 | #6 |
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Perhaps a cynical, but nonetheless all-too-frequently, true, view, "LS'!
Regards. John.
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Apr 26th, 2019, 08:25 | #7 | |
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Replacing that bulb saw a Pass certificate issued. In the past, i've had a couple of testers try the same trick, one was with a near immaculate Cortina 2.0 Ghia, the failure list from a certain well known "high st chain" of tyre, exhaust and MoT centres was like the puppys toilet roll - very, very long! I knew there were certain failure points so in between whiles i did those and presented it at another MoT station where it once again failed - on both rear fog lights blowing at some point between when i dropped it off and being tested. A pair of bulbs saw a pass. Another was my last SD1 V8 Rover, again a failure sheet as long as your arm, booked for test somewhere else where it passed with a clean sheet. In recent years i've known several cars where the tester has tried it on, car presented for retest at a different garage and passed. In fact i know of one garage who removed a headlamp bulb, put a greasy pawprint on it, refitted it in the wrong place and failed the car on headlamp aim. The pawprint revealed itself a couple of months later when the bulb blew but the bulb was still in the wrong place. That means they had charged for realigning the headlamp aim and done nothing as it was still skew-whiff afterwards. They didn't need to touch the bulb at all as both bulbs were brand new and had been cleaned with meths and alignment checked before it went for test. They also charged the owner for Cataclean to get it through the emissions and a "road test" to get the Cataclean to work - more cowshed confetti as the miles hadn't gone up commensurate with said road test. It's scary just how much of it goes on and it seems to be getting more common.
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Apr 26th, 2019, 08:59 | #8 |
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As vehicles become increasingly complex, with more items subject to test, so the number of potential fail points will also increase, 'LS'. Unscrupulous testers may exploit this as it can be difficult for 'Joe Public' to gainsay their findings without recourse to another tester. I think this, and the fact that some younger testers have no experience of older vehicles - which frequently had vague steering and barely adequate brakes even when new - is why we now have the 40 year rolling test exemption.
It is the same with bikes. I used to take my '60s mopeds to a classic friendly tester for their MOTs. It took him only a few minutes to do the test (no indicators, brake lights, ABS, etc., etc.). Start engine, check lights, brakes wheels, tyres, horn, that was about it! The remainder of the time, until the system allowed him to print out the certificate, was spent putting the world to rights over a brew! Regards, John.
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960 ecu 3.0ltr auto |
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