New Rubber Bellows on Boge Shocks.

[Ian21401]

I’ve received the replacement rubber bellows. Now I have to obtain some suitable soft jaws and find the courage to give it a go. I think that I would opt for plastic soft jaws with a longitudinal groove to create a larger gripping surface on the shocker shaft.
Thanks bob12 for your “how to”. You mentioned “brute force” to start the eye moving. Is that because you didn’t try using anything to soften the thread lock first?
Dave, you suggested acetone to weaken/dissolve the thread lock. I don’t have acetone to hand but should be able to acquire some. I do have some cellulose thinners though. Might that have the same effect?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

I’ve received the replacement rubber bellows. Now I have to obtain some suitable soft jaws and find the courage to give it a go. I think that I would opt for plastic soft jaws with a longitudinal groove to create a larger gripping surface on the shocker shaft.
Thanks bob12 for your “how to”. You mentioned “brute force” to start the eye moving. Is that because you didn’t try using anything to soften the thread lock first?
Dave, you suggested acetone to weaken/dissolve the thread lock. I don’t have acetone to hand but should be able to acquire some. I do have some cellulose thinners though. Might that have the same effect?

Cellulose thinners probably would work too Ian or stteal some of your wifes nail varnish remover - that's acetone, just not as chemically pure as they add things to stop it drying the skin so much as normal acetone. Will still work though.

[Bob Meadows]

Not sure if this helps as I’m not familiar with these Boge shocks: ~

Thread lock will respond to localised heat- you don’t need to cremate it just heat with a standard gas torch and the locking compound will turn to dust enabling the fitting to be undone with normal tools.

For soft jaws in a vice then use two aluminium pieces angled into “L” shapes – the shaft will remain undamaged when gripped etc.
Hope it helps Bob.

[bob12]

I never used anything to soften the thread lock .... possibly because I didn't realise there was any there until I separated the piston from the bush. I did however put some release oil around the joint as it's metal thread to metal thread and I assumed it might have been just a bit 'rusty'. I recall that I had to use an old dentists 'pick' to scratch out the hardened thread lock from the threads.

If you used heat you will more than likely damage the rubber insert of the lower bush and maybe even the top piston oil seal. I would not advise any heat.

I bought a pair of those green 'plastic' soft jaws and found that they were not man enough for the job. Aluminum is the only way to go as they are very unlikely to damage the chromed piston. Need to be a very tight grip on the piston to stop it turning.

For those that might have missed it this thread is associated rather bizarrely with another recent thread at pages 2/3 concerning 940 Fault Codes see: https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=298026&page=2

Best of luck,

Bob

[Ian21401]

Removed offending shock with the split bellows. Cannot shift that lower eye.
Painted cellulose thinners on for a few hours - didn’t work.
Judiciously applied heat - didn’t work.
Tried one of my old dodges which has worked on stubborn stuff in the past, i.e. whilst still hot apply penetrating fluid - didn’t work.
Neither of the soft jaws I bought would hold the shaft from turning.
The rubber on the Draper soft jaws has split and come way from the aluminium.
The plastic grooved soft jaws couldn’t hold it either.
Vice so tight I bent it’s toggle bar.
Have left it overnight with more cellulose thinners brushed on.
Not sure whether to have one last try tomorrow using the Draper jaws without the rubber as they appear to be aluminium.
If that fails I’ll try gluing the split with rubber solution for the time being and consider buying new ones if I can find the correct part number.
No cause for complaint really as they were part used when I obtained the pair for £50 and they have been on the car for 11 years and have done 86,000 miles. Just not happy as they were still performing OK.
Does anyone know the correct part number for my car?
VIN: YV1945273N2045689. I read somewhere on this forum that the “N” is the important bit.
Not a happy bunny tonight. Expected it to be difficult, but not impossible.

[Ian21401]

Frequent applications of penetrating fluid throughout the day whilst doing household stuff. Used the Draper aluminium jaws as the rubber had pulled off. Still couldn’t shift that eye. The shaft still moved in the jaws but the aluminium didn’t mark it. Looks like rubber solution later tonight and source some new ones. There appear to be several different part numbers relevant to different vehicles. I need to know the part number for my car.

[Ian21401]

I see “trustcarpartsltd” on eBay have two Nivomat (9140553) for £299.00 each.
Does anyone know nothing about that seller?

[Forrest]

I looked at those and was tempted but got mine from Skandix in the end. At €351 they are not that much more expensive and a known quantity. I think delivery from Germany was around £18.

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts...vomat/1003113/

[bob12]

Sorry you are having problems. I had my own over the weekend and missed this update. I will read these updates tomorrow.

I see it's a 945 and ?. I may have somewhere the Sach nos. for your car. Boge are the same as they are Sach badged Boge.

If you are going down the route of new I would suggest it's best to get a replacement set from Volvo via FRF. There are four different versions depending on model. You get 2 Nivos, 2new springs and 2 new bump stops. The kit with discount was coming in at £500+. I have the details of the Part nos.

It's a pity you are not nearer as I am sure we could have shifted those bottom bushes!!!

Bob

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Ian21401

I see “trustcarpartsltd” on eBay have two Nivomat (9140553) for £299.00 each.
Does anyone know nothing about that seller?

I've had a few bits from Trustcarparts Ian, most were fine although there was one part i bought that was wrong.
However, there was a slight doubt over that part to start with, i'd contacted the seller before i bought it and in all fairness, i had a refund fairly quickly and if memory serves, they told me to keep/dispose of the part as i saw fit.

It was a relatively cheap part though about £10-15 so probably not worth the return carriage etc.

I daresay if the part had been in the price range of Nivos, the seller would have wanted the parts back though!