Non aircon 940 heater valve

vickyg · Oct 2nd, 2019, 09:39

Hi folks,
Really struggling with this one. I understand the part I need to be completely obsolete. So my problem is what now? Given no part exists I might as well have a go at repairing the leaky valve but I am unclear how to remove it from the bulkhead. I am working in the footwell not the engine. The plastic control box that holds the cables seems to have no obvious means of detaching it - and breaking it would be fatal!

If of course I can't fix it and have to accept some other solution (meaning I will lose the heater control on the dash) what have others used? I considered a 240 RHD non aircon valve but am advised it is too large a diameter to fit. Someone else suggested a TX1 valve readily available on Ebay but they don't look anywhere near right. I am not keen to go to anything electric.

I can live with pulling the cables under the footwell if I must. The leak is fairly slow. I did wonder if I can try a repair on the valve and then adding K-seal might do the job.

Thanks,
Vicky
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...vtAwGdPXBuO504

Ian21401 · Oct 2nd, 2019, 09:51

Vicky,
There are a number of .”how to’s” in this section if you do a search, including one from me, but in the mean time, remove the trim panel from under the facia, remove the clutch pedal from the bulkhead leaving the securing bolts loosely in position as they also retain the clutch slave cylinder. Disconnect the control cables from the valve. The valve is located in the bulkhead with a bayonet fitting (like a light bulb). Turn it through about 90 degrees and it should be free.
I’ll try to find my right up about doing mine.

I’ve just bumped a thread which may be useful to you. See “940 heater control valve”.

vickyg · Oct 2nd, 2019, 10:54

Thanks have already gotten in there. Tried to add a photo but it won't let me. Useful to know about bayonet fitment, I didn't want to start twisting lest I break something further! It's an auto so access is fairly clear.

Ian21401 · Oct 2nd, 2019, 11:11

I didn’t know it was an auto. I’m fairly sure that there are others in the forum who have knowledge of work arounds for this problem. When my valve needed doing many years ago I bypassed it for a while by joining the heater pipes in the engine compartment. It worked but the car was freezing.

vickyg · Oct 2nd, 2019, 13:06

If it gets to that I'm thinking a piece of domestic copper pipe with an isolating valve!

827Roverman · Oct 2nd, 2019, 14:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by vickyg

If it gets to that I'm thinking a piece of domestic copper pipe with an isolating valve!

Vicky, have you seen my post today 11.36am , David.

Laird Scooby · Oct 2nd, 2019, 16:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by vickyg

If it gets to that I'm thinking a piece of domestic copper pipe with an isolating valve!

You can get away with 15mm domestic copper pipe and the same size isolation valve. The purose of the heater valve is to cut the supply of hot coolant to the heater whenyou select cold as the temperature setting. After that you set the temperature by moving the control knobs/levers to where you want it and the heater box blends hot and cold air to your preference.

As someone else commented further up, bypassing in the engine bay leaves you with no heater at all, using your idea of an isolation valve makes more sense but i have heard Mk1 VW Golf heater valves are near identical.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heater-Co...5/311930885143

For the sake of less than a fiver it may well be worth a try!

bob12 · Oct 2nd, 2019, 20:04

If you need to go the Golf Mk1 route I have the fitting details that were given to me by ano person (whose name I can't now recall) some years ago.

Bob

vickyg · Oct 2nd, 2019, 20:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by 827Roverman

Vicky, have you seen my post today 11.36am , David.

Hi David, just found it. I fear it's not the right part 0928400185 vs. 0928400183?

Laird Scooby · Oct 2nd, 2019, 21:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by vickyg

Hi David, just found it. I fear it's not the right part 0928400185 vs. 0928400183?

The part 0 928 400 185 is a totally different part Vicky, it's a Fuel Pressue Regulator (FPR) for something i believe.

If you check your other threads someone else did find it and posted a link to it but there is no photo and it says phone for stock levels.

Oct 2nd, 2019, 09:39	#1
vickyg Senior Member Last Online: Mar 29th, 2024 18:09 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Penzance	Non aircon 940 heater valve Hi folks, Really struggling with this one. I understand the part I need to be completely obsolete. So my problem is what now? Given no part exists I might as well have a go at repairing the leaky valve but I am unclear how to remove it from the bulkhead. I am working in the footwell not the engine. The plastic control box that holds the cables seems to have no obvious means of detaching it - and breaking it would be fatal! If of course I can't fix it and have to accept some other solution (meaning I will lose the heater control on the dash) what have others used? I considered a 240 RHD non aircon valve but am advised it is too large a diameter to fit. Someone else suggested a TX1 valve readily available on Ebay but they don't look anywhere near right. I am not keen to go to anything electric. I can live with pulling the cables under the footwell if I must. The leak is fairly slow. I did wonder if I can try a repair on the valve and then adding K-seal might do the job. Thanks, Vicky https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...vtAwGdPXBuO504 Last edited by vickyg; Oct 2nd, 2019 at 09:42. Reason: Add picture

Oct 2nd, 2019, 09:51	#2
Ian21401 Premier Member Last Online: Feb 11th, 2023 20:32 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Blyth, Northumberland	Vicky, There are a number of .”how to’s” in this section if you do a search, including one from me, but in the mean time, remove the trim panel from under the facia, remove the clutch pedal from the bulkhead leaving the securing bolts loosely in position as they also retain the clutch slave cylinder. Disconnect the control cables from the valve. The valve is located in the bulkhead with a bayonet fitting (like a light bulb). Turn it through about 90 degrees and it should be free. I’ll try to find my right up about doing mine. I’ve just bumped a thread which may be useful to you. See “940 heater control valve”. __________________ Ian. Since 2005: 1992 Volvo 940 estate 2.0L. Manual. Daily driver and workhorse. Last edited by Ian21401; Oct 2nd, 2019 at 09:58. Reason: Add text.

Oct 2nd, 2019, 11:11	#4
Ian21401 Premier Member Last Online: Feb 11th, 2023 20:32 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Blyth, Northumberland	I didn’t know it was an auto. I’m fairly sure that there are others in the forum who have knowledge of work arounds for this problem. When my valve needed doing many years ago I bypassed it for a while by joining the heater pipes in the engine compartment. It worked but the car was freezing. __________________ Ian. Since 2005: 1992 Volvo 940 estate 2.0L. Manual. Daily driver and workhorse.

Oct 2nd, 2019, 10:54	#3
vickyg Senior Member Last Online: Mar 29th, 2024 18:09 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Penzance	Thanks have already gotten in there. Tried to add a photo but it won't let me. Useful to know about bayonet fitment, I didn't want to start twisting lest I break something further! It's an auto so access is fairly clear.

Oct 2nd, 2019, 13:06	#5
vickyg Senior Member Last Online: Mar 29th, 2024 18:09 Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Penzance	If it gets to that I'm thinking a piece of domestic copper pipe with an isolating valve!

Oct 2nd, 2019, 20:04	#8
bob12 bob12 Last Online: Yesterday 18:45 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Woking	If you need to go the Golf Mk1 route I have the fitting details that were given to me by ano person (whose name I can't now recall) some years ago. Bob

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