Engine: 140 1986cc B20E: 142E Not starting

[Kyvinaria]

Recently, my 1972 142E has refused to start.

It Happened one day after it had been sitting on the driveway (I'd just driven it across town to my new house), and I decided to move it up a space for the winter (The driveway holds 4 cars, 2 abreast, and it was at the back). So, I went to start it, but it wouldn't go. I figured This was due to the angle the driveway sits at (about 30 degrees from horizontal), so I rolled it down to the street, let it stand for a few minutes, and tried again. Nothing, then it started up, but sounded strange, as though it was firing on 2 or 3 cylinders, and wouldn't idle.

I tried to move it, but it would die as soon as it was put in gear (Autobox). I pushed it across the street, and it's been there for 2 weeks. I've been tinkering with it periodically, but haven't gotten anywhere with it. It's stopped starting at all now (won't run on any cylinders, or fire at all), but I used to be able to get it to catch and run unevenly, but not idle, and it appeared to burning a fair amount of oil. I've gone over the plugs and leads (The plugs look as though the mixture is too rich, but I already knew this), the distributor looks good, there are no leaks in the fuel system (Though the engine bay does smell like petrol after trying to start it), the other electrical systems still work, the battery is good, etc.

Today there was a new development. I had just charged the battery, and put it in. I cranked the starter, and it went as usual (turned over, but wouldn't catch or even fire a little bit). Then, for a split second, the car seemed to lose power, then continue. For roughly an 1/8th of second, all the lights went out, the starter stopped cranking, etc. I've no idea what it means.

Another, more alarming thing happened as well. I attempted to start it, and there was a loud snap sort of sound, and wisps of smoke came out of the intake and Aux. Air regulator. I'm worried by this, and I'm not sure how to proceed.


Your thoughts?

[capt jack]

Hmmm. Interesting.

There are really only two reasons why an engine won't start - no fuel or no spark - unless you add major mechanical failure, but really, fuel or spark it's likely to be.

It sounds as though petrol is getting through as you can smell petrol in the engine bay when trying to start, but you need to establish that this is the case.

The crack and the wisps of smoke were probably petrol in the inlet manifold.

What makes you think there is oil burning? Where did the smoke come from? What colour was it?

Here's a suggestion for steps to follow:

1. Check the oil and the coolant. Is there one invading the space of the other? If so this would suggest a head gasket failure.

2. Check all the major electrical connections - the battery and the earth connection to the engine block, the alternator, the starter motor. Check the fuses in the fuse box. Check that the vehicle lights work. Check that the electrical connections to the coil and to the distributor are all intact.

3. Turn the ignition on, but don't start the engine. Do the ignition lights come on? If no, then the lack of electricity needs to be investigated, if yes, then can you hear the fuel pump run for two seconds after switch on? If no, then you have a fuel pump problem, fuel filter problem, or a faulty fuel relay. (This relay is one of the two or three on the right hand side of the engine bay, just above the pressure sensor). If yes, then switch off and make sure that fuel is reaching the engine. Do this by removing a clip on a fuel line in the engine bay, and CAREFULLY pull the pipe. Does petrol come out? Are there any obvious fuel leaks around the pressure regulator? The system is pressurised, so be ready for spills. Make sure there are no sources of ignition lying around! Remove each plug in turn. Are they wet with petrol? If so petrol is reaching each cylinder. If not the problem is fuel starvation. Once you can confirm that petrol is getting through you need to turn your attention to the ignition system. Put everything back and go make a cup of coffee.

4. If everything so far checks out, and the engine will crank, pull the HT lead from the centre electrode in the distributor cap. Using insulated grips, hold the end of the lead a few mm from the cam cover and crank the engine. You should see a strong, bright spark. If not, then the problem is ignition-related. If you do get a good spark, repeat this for each of the four plug leads. You might find it easier to put a plug in each lead and hold the plug against the cam cover. If all 4 plug leads spark the same then you know that this much is working properly. If there is no spark then you need to investigate the ignition. Switch everything off

To do this, remove the distributor cap and rotor arm. Examine both for obvious faults - burning and or anything obviously broken. Switch the ignition back on and with an insulated tool gently push the points apart. You should get a brief spark at the points. Switch off the ignition and remove the points. Look at the contact surfaces - they should be smooth and clean. Remove the condensor and check the condition of the electrical connections. Fit a new condensor and rotor arm, refit and re-set the points. Try to start the engine.

If all appears well with the ignition and the fuel supply but the car still won't start then you'll need to turn your attention to the fuel injection system. The car has the Bosch D-Jet system. First step is to check every electrical connection. You really will need a wiring diagram, but the key ones are: the three-pin plug on the distributor; the coolant sensor; the air intake sensor; the throttle switch; the pressure sensor; the connections to each injector; the cold start valve; the thermal switch (if fitted). The Haynes manual will help you to identify all these components.

The D-Jet system will require a complete essay of it's own, so to save my typing fingers, I'd suggest you go through all the fuel and ignition checks systematically, and if the car still won't start post on here again. I have some detailed stuff on checking through the Bosch system which I can send you if needed. This goes through the system, plus gives values for electrical checks, pretty much all of which can be worked through with a multimeter and basic tools.

My initial gut feeling is that you've got an electrical glitch, possibly the condensor or the points or the rotor arm, maybe the coil. Second favourite would be a fuel pressure/delivery problem.

Good luck and keep us posted. Go careful around the fuel and ignition systems - explosions and burns are not good for business!

Cheers

Jack