1995 940s 2.4 tdic cam belt kit ???

[Jimarilo]

Originally Posted by J liddy

OK we knew that .have you made progress in getting the parts for your service as they are all out there . Online Car parts. UK are a good starter probly got all the parts you will need !

Recently I have been distracted by various events, including changing the cam belt on my 309 Peugeot and getting it mot'd, which it passed first time

I have also been delayed trying to source tools as well as parts. So far I have a water pump, a cam belt and a IP timing kit, including ip lock pin, cam lock plate and dial gauge

After a first failed attempt at timing the pump, the next day I realised my mistake in not zeroing the dial to the lowest point. The pump is now set at .95mm and running like a dream. I have had since a potential stuck vacuum pump, where there was a loud ticking from the top end. After pulling over and having a look and restarting a couple of times it seemed to clear it's self and all has been well ever since ......but was very scary at the time

The car is due for it's mot this week and will see how that goes. I am contemplating buying a 240v heavy duty impact wrench to undo and do up the main crank bolt as this rig torques up to 450nm (ebay284560443168), which covers the bolt requirement This would save buying either a heavy duty torque wrench, the pulley locking tool and the 27mm extension arm

The top of the two front door cards have been repaired. Removing the door cards are a walk in the park by design. All credit to who ever designed the way they were attached. Never found a door card so easy to remove and refit. I used a contact glue which allows a some movement once contact is made ...... Alpha Thixofix Contact Adhesive

[Jimarilo]

Just been reading up on the crankshaft pulley in the green book, as I was under the impression the four small bolts and the main bolt had to be changed due to being stretch bolts. However in the green book it doesn't say replace bolts, just use thread lock on the bolts

Good enough for me ;-)

[lynns hubby]

I am contemplating buying a 240v heavy duty impact wrench to undo and do up the main crank bolt

What's wrong with a Battery impact wrench. Millwakie or Dewalt are available which should have more than enough torque to remove what you want.
No leads trailing about getting in the way etc. (is there such a thing as a 240V impact wrench?)

[Jimarilo]

Here is one on ebay that I have ordered, not sure if there will be a need to take out the intercooler as well as the radiator to gain access using this method


Ebay item nos 175056032879

[BogfordGarage]

I took my radiator out when I did it but I don't think it's necessary with the special tools. With the impact wrench however it is probably the easiest way to get access. I'm still not confident that a impact wrench is a good way of retorquing the bolt afterwards, only because you don't know how accurate it is and it's quite important to get the right torque. For removal it is probably the easiest way to do it.

[Jimarilo]

I just had the impact wrench delivered today

This is 1010watts so is very powerful, there is no clutch or speed setting, just forward or reverse. I have no doubt that it will torque to the required amount, but will it strip the thread in doing so ??

You cannot slowly build up speed, it is either on or off, will need to see how it works maybe on wheel nuts, before I make a decision to use it or not lol

Edit: The idea of the wrench is, to replace the need for the crank locking tool and 27mm extension bar. So if the camshaft and ip locks are removed, this will allow some give, if the force was over the top and potentially save the the thread, with the engine rotation acting as a clutch .....possibly lol

[Jimarilo]

Been a while, since I last posted, so here is an update

This morning I did a test drive after having fitted both the cam and IP belts and what a contrast the car is to drive now

Using the electric wrench to remove and re-fit the 27mm crankshaft bolt meant having to take all three rads out, including the A/C rad to gain access. I then decided to take out the AC pump etc out all together, as it would need to be re-filled and it is not needed up here

I marked the IP belt and slid it off the pulleys and marked the new belt and put it back.

The cambelt sprockets were already marked with white dots, with corresponding marks to line up. I marked the belt again and fitted the new belt after replacing the water pump, idler and adjuster pulleys. The idler pulley had a plastic contact area which was badly cracked and fell apart when removed..........very lucky it didn't happen before. The adjuster pulley looked much newer and may have been change on the first belt change. Certainly the water pump looked original. Re-set the IP to .93, after realising the dial gauge plunger rod was slightly bent preventing it from returning.

I had to drill out a couple of bolts that connect to the headlight brackets through the plastic cross brace. I put two new 6mm bolts in and welded to the bracket is per original.

Used a new metal/rubber rocker cover gasket, the cork one was hopeless. The 6 mm dome nuts look fab on the rocker cover and are held firm with spring washers

The electric wrench was fantastic, it undid the 27mm very easily and did a great job doing it back up. Used thread lock to add strength to the hold .......fingers crossed all good

I had to do a mend and make good job on the bottom hose, where the AC pump had been rubbing on the hose and must have been just 1 or 2 mm from going through. The cut had gone well through the reinforcing thread in the hose bang in the middle of the 90 degree turn in the hose. I happened to have an "S" shaped pole for mounting a sky dish, so cut out a bend and cut a 45 in the hose and slipped the pipe in on both new ends of the pipe and jubilee clipped an inch from either end of the metal pipe. A new hose is on order.

I also welded the hole in the egr pipe that connects to the exhaust manifold and made a thin stainless plate blocking the other end.

Edit: Forgot to mention changing the original thermostat, will need to test the old one to see if it was working ok, but for £4 odd off ebay ;-)

The combination of items has resulted in a very perky Volvo, a transformation even, much more responsive and already have noticed, even with using the turbo the fuel consumption is greatly improved........very well pleased overall

I was working outside and in between the rain, it took two days to complete everything. My new additional little bench workshop was very useful and made things much easier

Have two new rear tailgate struts on order as well

[J liddy]

Hello just read your last interesting post the issue you had the the failed idler pully happened to me too back in about 2004 the 1st garage I used in 1999 did not change the idler pully I was very lucky too .I have supplied the INA all steel idler pully ever since I HOPE YOU HAVE TOO .you can get them for about £30 online volvo when they had them cost near £50 also use the llitens Tensioner pully made in Canada. My D24 volvo will be having the job done next year at about 55000 miles interval it's on 294000 miles now

[Jimarilo]

Thanks, yes I fitted a steel pulley (SNR) from autodoc.co.uk. They seem to have most things I want, they are not the quickest, but the prices are good

The previous belt change was at 80K and has 158K on the clock now

This is the first time in a very long time this engine has actually worked as near it should, I say that because I have never had one before so have nothing to compare with. It certainly has made huge steps since day one, when we drove the car from Epsom where we bought it, to the Highlands. It was hesitant, sluggish and drunk fuel big time (blocked air filter didn't help). The complete opposite is true now

The tailgate struts arrived today and are fitted, straight swap like for like £20

eBay item number:114993864669

The bottom hose is due any day and have fresh coolant awaiting the new hose being fitted, which for once is a nice easy job

[J liddy]

Hi tip on coolant change .on D24 diesel undo upper hose at cold start .this will ensure you don't get air trapped in system.