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oil light on

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Old May 16th, 2014, 16:07   #21
s2000
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Hi Again sorry for the delay, here is the update, first off I saw that where they had done the pressure test it must of been leaking as the sump was covered in oil that led to the sensor, also the connector to the sensor does not clip on, clip is knackered so it is free to drift? Anyway I've cleaned it all out & a long story short I put it all back together & oil flushed it twice. Now I have included a pic of my tester & would like you all to tell me if the readings are good as I don't trust myself lol, I have marked it with two red lines the lower line is idol the top one 4000 rpm, the tester needle was rock solid no shaking, & I waited for the rad fan to come on before I took the any readings. Now if you look at the pic I thought those readings were good? but please let me have your input before I charge off down the motorway. The oil pickup was partly blocked & the oil pan had some gritty crap in it bit I have seen worse, the first flush came out very black the second flush still dark but noticeable cleaner ..... What do you think ????
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Old May 16th, 2014, 19:47   #22
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Engine warning light is usually the sensor failed. Check the sensor fuse (engine comp) and replace it for another. Is it running hot or normal temp?

If there is thin oil in the engine now, then it will need some thicker oil in it to boost the oil pressure for an older engine. So, if its got 0W/30 in it then try putting in some 15W/40 to thicken it up, or just drain and replace with 10W/40 Castrol (recommended). Pressures look ok to me - at least you have oil pressure at the lower level. There is also a black oil breather pipe top front of the engine which can get clogged up. Check that's clean too.
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Last edited by morrismen; May 16th, 2014 at 19:52.
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Old May 16th, 2014, 20:47   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrismen View Post
Engine warning light is usually the sensor failed. Check the sensor fuse (engine comp) and replace it for another. Is it running hot or normal temp?

If there is thin oil in the engine now, then it will need some thicker oil in it to boost the oil pressure for an older engine. So, if its got 0W/30 in it then try putting in some 15W/40 to thicken it up, or just drain and replace with 10W/40 Castrol (recommended). Pressures look ok to me - at least you have oil pressure at the lower level. There is also a black oil breather pipe top front of the engine which can get clogged up. Check that's clean too.
If the warning light responds correctly when the ignition is turned on, the chances of the low oil pressure sensor failing after the engine is started are very, very slim.

If any engine is burning oil, it's worth checking the CCV system is functioning correctly and an engine that has sludged up is more likely to have blocked the vent.

Castrol Edge 0/30 is a real good oil for use in Canada or Siberia during the winter, but I agree an older engine should use an x/40 during the summer. None of the Iffy lube places in Germany use x/30 grades for older Volvo cars, even though it is in limits according to the handbook.

It would be a good idea to use an oil that cleans well to help get the top end clean, as the sump is only half the story. I would recommend Shell Ultra 5/40 as a good value cleaner and I would change it after only 3K miles, or earlier if it gets real black.
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Old May 16th, 2014, 21:31   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrismen View Post
Engine warning light is usually the sensor failed. Check the sensor fuse (engine comp) and replace it for another. Is it running hot or normal temp?

If there is thin oil in the engine now, then it will need some thicker oil in it to boost the oil pressure for an older engine. So, if its got 0W/30 in it then try putting in some 15W/40 to thicken it up, or just drain and replace with 10W/40 Castrol (recommended). Pressures look ok to me - at least you have oil pressure at the lower level. There is also a black oil breather pipe top front of the engine which can get clogged up. Check that's clean too.
Oil light has only been on when the engine is hot, I was not sure if I was reading the pressure tester right so wanted someone to confirm, I've now put 15/40 oil in.
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Old May 16th, 2014, 21:52   #25
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Anyone confirm these readings as good ? Would they restore your confidence? Not sure how long you should hold the revs at 4000 rpm either ? Anyone know ?

Last edited by s2000; May 16th, 2014 at 21:56.
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Old May 16th, 2014, 22:04   #26
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Anyone confirm these readings as good ? Would they restore your confidence? Not sure how long you should hold the revs at 4000 rpm either ? Anyone know ?
Did you miss a second pic or something, as all I can see is a gauge at zero?
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Old May 16th, 2014, 22:10   #27
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Did you miss a second pic or something, as all I can see is a gauge at zero?
2 red lines on the left, with engine hot, bottom line idol top line 4000rpm..
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Old May 16th, 2014, 22:42   #28
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I would say that those readings appear good !
It would appear that the blocked pick up pipe/strainer could have been the problem ?
Sludge in the pressure relief valve can also sometimes cause it to stick open or prevent it from sealing properly, so the several oil changes that you've done may have helped there as well ?
Is the oil light still on ?
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Old May 17th, 2014, 02:13   #29
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I would say that those readings appear good !
It would appear that the blocked pick up pipe/strainer could have been the problem ?
Sludge in the pressure relief valve can also sometimes cause it to stick open or prevent it from sealing properly, so the several oil changes that you've done may have helped there as well ?
Is the oil light still on ?
Oil light is off but I have not been anywhere yet..
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