G/box: 2WD: Replacing valve body or..

[Bashy]

Hi folks, I have wasted all the time and money in the flushes and not achieved anything, it's exactly the same as before, so it looks like I need a valve body or can I just replace the solenoids? Is one or the other a task I can do myself or does it have to be a garage job? If the latter, then I will have to get rid

[Georgeandkira]

I've never gone nearer the VB job than reading about it.

CORRECT VB = $750 - $1,100
jack and stands I got
Lowering the subframe is necessary
Free up some motor mounts and hotch the engine up
Off with the side pan
Out with the VB and/or solenoids (the ones you can reach?)
Reverse
Road test...reset to learning mode with VIDA....more?

See, that's all I know. From reading your posts I'm guessing the job is beyond your capabilities. No shame there.

I cannot remember the development of your trannie woes but I wish people would simply try getting their fluid to clean with as many D&Fs as needed then adding LubeGard (red).

[Critical Bill]

You need to lower the sub frame by 50 mm if I remember correctly in order to replace valve body or brake booster in RHD volvos
I never replaced VB my V70 as car was write off but I bought volvo tool to lower sub frame.
You can try to find local shop which can fix your valve body . Just google "Valve Body Repairs".
If you want try to do this yourself you can buy or rent engine support beam or I can lend you this tool.

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by Georgeandkira

I've never gone nearer the VB job than reading about it.

CORRECT VB = $750 - $1,100
jack and stands I got
Lowering the subframe is necessary
Free up some motor mounts and hotch the engine up
Off with the side pan
Out with the VB and/or solenoids (the ones you can reach?)
Reverse
Road test...reset to learning mode with VIDA....more?

See, that's all I know. From reading your posts I'm guessing the job is beyond your capabilities. No shame there.

I cannot remember the development of your trannie woes but I wish people would simply try getting their fluid to clean with as many D&Fs as needed then adding LubeGard (red).

Damn, thats well beyond my expertise

I have done about 50L flush all in using the gibbson method

I have seen used ones under £200 and recon ones at about 400 and new at about £500

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by Critical Bill

You need to lower the sub frame by 50 mm if I remember correctly in order to replace valve body or brake booster in RHD volvos
I never replaced VB my V70 as car was write off but I bought volvo tool to lower sub frame.
You can try to find local shop which can fix your valve body . Just google "Valve Body Repairs".
If you want try to do this yourself you can buy or rent engine support beam or I can lend you this tool.

Thanks Bill, there are a couple of possibilities within about 40 mile of me.
Lowering the sub frame maybe more than i can chew, or maybe not, the problem would be if i get part way through and struggle to finish, plus i have a dodgy back so i am limited to how much strain i can use.

I will ring around on monday and see where im at, i am hoping i can buy the VB myself cause i bet the garage would charge more just for that alone, then theres the fluid, actually i have about 10L left lol, they can use that

The other option is adding another cooler, but i do have some reservations about that, such as the box never reaching its optimal temp, could that have an impact and so on. Not ruling it out, might even try that to be honest, for £40 its worth a punt really....

[Simmy]

Originally Posted by Bashy

Hi folks, I have wasted all the time and money in the flushes and not achieved anything, it's exactly the same as before, so it looks like I need a valve body or can I just replace the solenoids? Is one or the other a task I can do myself or does it have to be a garage job? If the latter, then I will have to get rid

go on you tube type moose cave .they have a video of vb replacement hope this helps you undrstand what is involved

[pierremcalpine]

Originally Posted by Critical Bill

You need to lower the sub frame by 50 mm if I remember correctly in order to replace valve body or brake booster in RHD volvos
I never replaced VB my V70 as car was write off but I bought volvo tool to lower sub frame.
You can try to find local shop which can fix your valve body . Just google "Valve Body Repairs".
If you want try to do this yourself you can buy or rent engine support beam or I can lend you this tool.

Lowering subframe is not a big deal FWIW:
1) Support engine under sump with jack and piece of wood
2) Take out bolts (5 I think) that hold steering rack to subframe
3) Remove small plate just behind steering rack (4 bolts)
4) Tap/Pry rack to make sure it is loose from subframe
5) Remove front subframe bushing nut, two bolts from engine mount near crank
5) Loosen rear subframe bolts but do not remove entirely
6) remove front subframe bolts

that should give you tons of access.

[Bashy]

Thanks guys, it does look a bit beyond what i am comfortable with, i tend to forget stuff or break things, so whilst stipping it down may or may not go ok, ya can pretty much guaranteed sommat will break or i will forget to put sommat back or forget where it goes or worst case, ruin the box

[alcashj94]

Give the new fluid time to let the detergents work, having replaced that quantity of fluid you should have got rid of all the original !
When I did mine some years ago it took several hundred miles to start seeing any improvement and a lot longer to settle down.
You should do a 'sump dump' occasionally to remove the stuff the new fluid is loosening from the system, I now do that with each engine oil change and my box is continuing to work OK having done about 15000 miles since I did the original fluid change.

[Bashy]

Originally Posted by alcashj94

Give the new fluid time to let the detergents work, having replaced that quantity of fluid you should have got rid of all the original !
When I did mine some years ago it took several hundred miles to start seeing any improvement and a lot longer to settle down.
You should do a 'sump dump' occasionally to remove the stuff the new fluid is loosening from the system, I now do that with each engine oil change and my box is continuing to work OK having done about 15000 miles since I did the original fluid change.

Thats a little more reassuring, thank you, much appreciated, i dont do that many miles a year, 5-6k so could be a while yet...