Radio Wiring guide

[RichT4]

Hello,

This is purely here as a guide for when you want to remove the Standard head unit and replace it with a more updated aftermarket one.

I couldn't get hold of the wiring harness adapter 'on the day' so i thought i'd study the wiring diagrams and convert the standard head unit wiring (shown below) to the ISO connectors.


When taking a look at the wiring diagram, you'll notice the letters denoting colours, these are listed below:

BL - BLUE
BN - BROWN

GN - GREEN
GR - GRAY

OR - ORANGE
P - PINK

R - RED
SB - BLACK

VO - VIOLET
W - WHITE

Y - YELLOW

In the wiring diagram, page 140 is where you'll need to direct your attention:


On your new ISO connectors they should be labeled to show which is which, so cut, strip and either solder or crimp to join the new cables on ending up with this:


Large Red = Common live
Brown and White = Ignition live/remote
Large Black = Earth

These are the only ones i've used to ensure that the radio is useable.

The other cables i have left out because they aren't essential to the Radios operation, unless you wish to dim the radio or boost the aerial signal; in which case these link to the Central Electrical Module (CEM).

Moving onto the speaker arrangement; you'll notice that there are only 8 wires going into the connector. These are arranged so that the positive and negative are side by side rather than above and below each other.



Once you have 'amended' these you will be left with this:


Brown + and white - for the drivers side front
Green/yellow + and Gray - Passenger side front

Yellow/black + and Green/black - to Passenger Rear speaker

Yellow + and Green/white - to Drivers rear speaker

The subwoofer takes a feed off of both these rear speakers and is powered via junction box further along in the car. (small red cable behind the head unit).

The aerial you can strip down and place a new aerial connector on the end of it.
http://budgetcaraudio.co.uk/ds-ebay/...tor/PC5-27.jpg


The tricky bit was fitting the cage, as you can see it doesn't fit in the standard housing.



I had to use a soldering iron to melt the plastic back so i can get a snug fit for the cage:


Don't secure it in just yet though, you have to fit the plastic unit back into the console other wise you block the securing screw entry at the bottom.


Once the cage has been put in, the Stereo connected up: it's time to switch on, set it up and enjoy the music!





If there is anything i've missed, don't hesitate to add it below and i can amend the guide to make it as accurate as possible.
Thanks!

[adamamam]

Wow! This is superbly helpful, not to mention timely!

I cannot thank you enough!

[adamamam]

And so the questions begin...

Are you saying that the sub takes a feed from the rear speakers SOMEWHERE ELSE? So I don't need to worry about a feed for the sub when wiring the stereo so long as I'm feeding the rear speakers?

I ask this because I'm trying to make sense of the butchery committed by the previous owner, and I'm almost certain that the sub isn't running...

[RichT4]

Originally Posted by adamamam

And so the questions begin...

Are you saying that the sub takes a feed from the rear speakers SOMEWHERE ELSE? So I don't need to worry about a feed for the sub when wiring the stereo so long as I'm feeding the rear speakers?

I ask this because I'm trying to make sense of the butchery committed by the previous owner, and I'm almost certain that the sub isn't running...

Yes, it takes a feed from both speakers (look at diagram where the sub is the large box top left of the drawing).
It's not designed to take ONLY the deep bass sounds, it plays simply like a normal speaker but deeper.

You can see where it takes it's feed from the left and right speaker.

[adamamam]

Originally Posted by Rich306

Yes, it takes a feed from both speakers (look at diagram where the sub is the large box top left of the drawing).
It's not designed to take ONLY the deep bass sounds, it plays simply like a normal speaker but deeper.

You can see where it takes it's feed from the left and right speaker.

Ok, thanks.

Do you know what powers up the sub amp then? Or is it always on?

At the moment I have sound at all speakers, but not from the sub. Looking at the sub, it doesn't seem to have been disconnected, so I can't understand why there would be no sound.

Gah! I wish that doofus hadn't taken the stereo out!

[RichT4]

Originally Posted by adamamam

Ok, thanks.

Do you know what powers up the sub amp then? Or is it always on?

At the moment I have sound at all speakers, but not from the sub. Looking at the sub, it doesn't seem to have been disconnected, so I can't understand why there would be no sound.

Gah! I wish that doofus hadn't taken the stereo out!

The sub should always be on, pull the sub out and see whether you get a feed of 9 - 12V from the red wire, using the black as your neutral.
Check to see if it's on when the ignition is off or on stage 1.

The feed for the sub looks like it comes from 44/13 junction point 3

[killzone]

Thank You So Much

[silverunner]

Hello Rich306, what a great info! Thank You!

I have just purchased the same radio (at least it looks like it - Sony WX-GT90BT) and on your pictures you've got a very nice fit around the radio when installed. Could you provide info with regards to the kind/brand hardware you've used in your installation? (cage, bezel)
Any info greatly appreciated!

[RichT4]

Originally Posted by silverunner

Hello Rich306, what a great info! Thank You!

I have just purchased the same radio (at least it looks like it - Sony WX-GT90BT) and on your pictures you've got a very nice fit around the radio when installed. Could you provide info with regards to the kind/brand hardware you've used in your installation? (cage, bezel)
Any info greatly appreciated!

Hello mate,
First of all thanks to all of you for the replies!

I used the standard cage that I got with the sony head unit, everything I had there was supplied with the stereo aside from the wiring harness itself.

If I am honest mate, it requires time and patience to cut down the inner rails for the cage to sit in tight, holding it in is purely by bending the cage 'pins' in where you can.

Give it a shot and yours should sit in sweet post some photos when done of your completed work, any dramas then don't hesitate to PM me.

Good luck!

[baldmosher]

Just saw this thread - awesome stuff

Just in case nobody's asked this already.... the previous owner had left a yellow wire inserted (rather loosely) into the otherwise unused top right (as you look at the back of the HU) opening in the green connector. Just wondering what that might have been for? Is it the switched input for a hands free kit maybe? If so, I'm also wondering if there was other necessary wiring for that, and he pulled them out before I got there... and if so, I'm wondering if it's possible to hack it to work with any aux input??