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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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water lossViews : 1729 Replies : 40Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 18th, 2019, 11:29 | #31 | |
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BUT: Do I understand this correctly? Water is escaping through the header/expansion tank. Do you actually mean the expansion tank? Does it fill up completely with coolant then eject it through the breather pipe? You state that no escaped coolant can be seen so I suspect not so does the expansion tank now appear empty? Did you confirm that the heater valve is on the engine side of the bulkhead? Is the heater valve open or closed? If it’s open then coolant will be able to flow through the heater and leak away. Even if it’s closed I suggest that, as there is a leak in the heater matrix the pressurised coolant is able to enter the matrix via the return end and leak away. I do not understand how the system is pressurising so much if the heater matrix is leaking, surely that will be preventing a build up of pressure. I’m still thinking, access those heater hoses and isolate that heater matrix. You will ascertain the state of the heater hoses whilst doing so. Then see what happens. If the pressure is still building then move on to a suspect head gasket and the usual checks for that. The “how to change a heater matrix” seems very comprehensive. I agree that it appears to be a long tedious job and would consume a lot of labour hours if someone else needs to be paid to do the work, but, it’s probably still less than the cost of a replacement car, and GreenBrick has a re-cored matrix available, if it is the correct one. Just to add to the sorry story, I once owned a Ford Cortina Mk3, 1600cc. It was fine around town and on short trips but after a couple of hours on a motorway the coolant all disappeared. The cylinder head gasket was suspect but when the head was removed it was found to be cracked. It was replaced with a good used one. The coolant still continued to disappear. The piston rings eventually gave up (blue smoke etc) so the engine was completely stripped and the block and head checked by a reputable engineering works. No faults were found. The engine was rebuilt but continued to use coolant. No idea where it was going or how. Traded the car into a dealership who wanted the registration number and the Rostyle wheels. Sorry if I’m on the wrong track here, just trying to help. Last edited by Ian21401; Jul 18th, 2019 at 11:52. |
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Jul 18th, 2019, 13:04 | #32 | |
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Cortinas were notorious for coolant loss (among many other faults) but the heater matrix was a 10 minute job to change. Two Jubilee clips, a few self tappers, job done. Trouble was, because the heater matrix was the highest point of the system, air locks were endemic in them which in turn caused overheating and over-pressurisation of the system, resulting in coolant loss through the radiator cap. They also were susceptible to radiator blockages with all that entails.
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Jul 18th, 2019, 16:03 | #33 | |
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Coolant Leaking into Auto Box.
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Jul 18th, 2019, 17:33 | #34 | |
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With the amount of coolant being lost on this one, i would expect to see a rise in the ATF level though.
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Jul 18th, 2019, 22:15 | #35 |
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I am still wondering, including wondering what tests have been done.
If the water loss is from pressure and the header tank, is it concluded or observed that coolant leaves the cooling system via the pressure cap? If so, is that over pressurisation, or normal pressure with a faulty pressure cap, or even a blanking cap instead of a pressure cap. Inspect and test the cap? Test the cooling system? A correct and working cap might cure this. Are there any other signs to implicate the head gasket? For example:
Re the heater. Bypassing it would isolate it helping to focus investigations. If you do keep the car, please replace the heater hoses whatever condition they appear to be in. Whether to keep the car depends on things about the car and the circumstances that I do not know. In my opinion generally, if the body is sound, mechanical things can usually be fixed. Well that's a starting point for considerations. Good luck. . |
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Jul 24th, 2019, 00:06 | #36 |
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well!
the water has stopped leaking out of the expansion/header tank, its not pressurising anymore,not added coolant for over a week ! it was 33 degrees today and its been on the dog run 3x and nothing grrrrr make a liar of me,so no water to be found leaking anywhere the ground is bone dry under the car,it has been on longer journeys same thing no leaks we still check it before and after every run, there is NO MAYONANNAISE, car runs smoothly so fingers crossed and touch wood it lives to drive another day ONLY a minor issue my lovely husband managed to break the key off in the drivers door lock,so the last bit of the key is well and truly buried, lucky we had 2 keys so we can still drive it just cant lock it which is annoying but in the meantime looking for a lock with a key so it can be changed, thanks for all the help |
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Jul 24th, 2019, 00:21 | #37 |
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Bad news on the key breaking in the lock! The good news is, if you can get the lock out, you shold be able to get the remains of the key out of it and not have to worry about changing the lock and having an extra key.
You can lock it, open the rear drivers side door and press the button down on the drivers door and shut the rear door. You can unlock the passenger door, open it and lean across to open the drivers door with the internal release handle - this automatically unlocks it. This is assuming all your locks are the same key. If it helps i can tqake some pics tomorrow of the screws that hold the lock in and give you some tips to remove/refit the drivers door lock - just done mine so it's fresh in my brain cell! Good news on the water loss or lack of as well, may have been an air lock that was reluctant to shift perhaps.
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Jul 26th, 2019, 12:04 | #38 |
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appreciate the instructions on getting the lock out,not sure the key will come out as broke off at the weakest point where its skinny then flares out like a paddle, its the paddle bit left in the lock,still waiting on lakes to find a matching lock and key and just sent him a picture of the keys as he may be able to get one cut,i cant find any numbers on the keys just says 'YMOS GERMANY' not even sure they are originals for this car as it had volvo guard,which i don't think works just flashes,never heard an alarm anyway, still checking the water before and after journeys tad paranoid now.fingers crossed was just a an airlock.
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Jul 26th, 2019, 12:10 | #39 | |
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Jul 27th, 2019, 23:24 | #40 |
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Sorry for the delay! Finally, some photos! First i should point out this is on a 760 but the lock is from a 940 so there will be detail differences. These two screws on the door hold the clip in place that secures the lock :
That's the horseshoe that holds the lock to the door. The loop on the end of the lock that the short rod fits into normally points towards the rear of the door - with that in mind you can see this is a passenger door lock but you need another clue to know that. There is a "finger" in the lock casing, one top, one bottom and the bottom bit has a wider "finger". Once the horseshoe is loose (assuming the door card is already removed) it slides towards the front of the car to release the lock from the door. The lock can then be partially withdrawn and turned so the loop attached to it with the rod for the lock operation is down in the lock aperture. Then the rod can easily be withdrawn from the loop. Then you can remove the lock from the door. Refitting you "Haynes it" - in other words, reversal of removal. Meanwhile, you have a few options wonce it's out. First is you can try and get at the remians of the key now you can see more closely where it is. Second, you can turn the lever on the end of the lock through 180 degrees so the loop (that the lock rod sits in) is now the opposite side of the lock barrel - this means you can fit it in the passenger door, do similar to the passenger lock (swap the lever/loop through 180 deg) and fit that in the drivers door, meaning you can now lock and unlock from the drivers door again. To turn the lever/loop through 180 deg, you need to slide the E-clip (a bit like a circlip) off the end of the lock barrel, lift it off and turn it round - there are two slots and fingers so it can do this easily. Don't forget to move the return spring at the same time. Then refit the E-clip. If you have something like a Dremel or a very steady hand, you could try drilling the end of the lock barel with a small hole, just big enough to be able to put a piece of stiff wire (paperclip straightened out is good) through and push the broken piece of key out. On some older locks, there was already a hole there making life easier for this. If you do swap the passenger door lock with the drivers lock by doing this (assuming it's keyed the same) then once again you'll be able to lock/unlock from the drivers door without needing to carry an extra key. If you eventually get another lock, you could fit it to the passenger door and hide the key somewhere on the car where you know where it is using a neodymium magnet - emergency use only obviously unless you want to carry an extra key! Hope i've covered what you need to know there, if not feel free to ask and i'll do my best to help!
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