|
700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
Information |
|
940 LPT 2.3 problems starting in dampViews : 6963 Replies : 160Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
Nov 2nd, 2018, 17:02 | #1 |
Member
Last Online: Jan 24th, 2024 09:34
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Newmarket
|
940 LPT 2.3 problems starting in damp
My 940 has had problems this week starting up in damp weather (I'm assuming that damp is a factor as I've not had problems otherwise). I was advised to change the spark plugs, wires and distributor would resolve the issues, but two days later I've had the same problem.
The engine cranks but won't start and you can hear the engine misfiring slightly before failing to start. The recovery service earlier today managed to get it started by cleaning the ignition coil connections, after which the engine misfired for around a minute when starting before gradually getting going. The car runs well when hot and isn't stalling at all. I was wondering about whether the ignition coil was part of the problem and whether there are any tests I can do to narrow the problem down? I have the car booked into another garage on Monday but I suspect that they'll not be able to find it. I had the oil breather box and hoses cleaned and few weeks ago so I'm wondering if this could also be related to that. Last edited by haymitch; Nov 2nd, 2018 at 17:12. |
Nov 2nd, 2018, 18:37 | #2 |
Member
Last Online: Jan 24th, 2024 09:34
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Newmarket
|
Just realised I hadn't asked any clear question so. Does the below sound like a good plan of attack?
- Replace ignition coil - Fuel filter - Crankcase position sensor - Better spark plugs and leads (not currently OEM). - Are there any good points to attack with contact cleaner to help with the starting in the general? I don't really want to start replacing everything in the hope that I'll solve the issue, but not sure where to start currently. The battery should be good - I replaced it around a year and a half ago. Last edited by haymitch; Nov 2nd, 2018 at 18:52. |
Nov 2nd, 2018, 18:58 | #3 |
Torquemeister
Last Online: May 6th, 2024 17:32
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Asgard, Cheshire
|
One thing to check is that the HT Lead is properly secured to the distributor cap, as it's in a really stupid place.
__________________
loki_the_glt - Skipper of the Exxon Valdez, driver of Sweden's finest sporting saloon - and pining for another Slant-4. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to loki_the_glt For This Useful Post: |
Nov 2nd, 2018, 19:16 | #4 |
Member
Last Online: Jan 24th, 2024 09:34
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Newmarket
|
Thanks Loki - I'll give that a check. I'm guessing it would worth replacing the HT lead from the ignition coil to the distributor? I don't think this was replacing alongside the other wires.
I've sent you a PM about the code reader by the way - I can't see the message in my sent folder though so let me know it does not come through Last edited by haymitch; Nov 2nd, 2018 at 19:20. |
Nov 2nd, 2018, 19:20 | #5 |
Member
Last Online: Jan 24th, 2024 09:34
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Newmarket
|
New spark plugs were put in by a garage a few days ago, but I don't know what brand they were I'm afraid. I'll have a look.
I think you might have mentioned the meths to someone else laird I currently have well over half a tank left - why do you need to make sure that the tank is 1/4 or below? Last edited by haymitch; Nov 2nd, 2018 at 19:23. |
The Following User Says Thank You to haymitch For This Useful Post: |
Nov 2nd, 2018, 21:24 | #6 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 01:55
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
Converting 4 gallons to litres works out at 18L so adding 2L of meths gives 2L in a total of 20L so is 10% concentration. If it is condensation in the tank, since it's turned cold will make it worse as the condesnsation will form easier. I might be wrong but from your description it sounds as if you have condensation in the tank. It settles overnight causing a poor cold start because the fuel pump is pulling the water from the bottom of the tank. Once it's warmed up and has been moving, that condensation has not only been sloshed round the tank but the fuel returning from the engine that hasn't been used causes a swirl effect in the bottom of the tank where the pick up is for the pump. This is a baffled area to minimise fuel starvation under cornering, acceleration, braking etc but also the lowest point of the tank on a flat road. For the cost of 2L of meths from Toolstation (about £6), it's a cheap and easy thing to try. If it doesn't make any difference, it will remove any condensation that is starting to build preventing a future problem for a while in any case. Also eliminates condensation as being the cause of the problem.
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
May 5th, 2019, 21:32 | #7 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Oct 8th, 2023 19:49
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: cardiff
|
crank tool
|
May 6th, 2019, 20:14 | #8 |
Member
Last Online: Jan 24th, 2024 09:34
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Newmarket
|
I took the car out for a test drive today - it started fine.
However, I now have another warning light! My code reader is now giving me the code 1-1-3. On the Volvo owner's club's code diagnostic page this is the fault condition 'Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or rich' and the cause is 'Mixture incorrect: O2S wiring fault'. My car has the Bosch LH2.4 ignition system. I think I might now be getting to the second underlying problem with my car Does anyone have any idea what to go for next? My ideas are: - Replace O2 sensor / wiring - Clean grounds - Clean / replace the MAF sensor. This was replaced by the garage with a second hand unit so may have introduced another fault. |
The Following User Says Thank You to haymitch For This Useful Post: |
May 6th, 2019, 20:30 | #9 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 01:55
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
Quote:
I'd leave the MAF sensor alone for now as well, this "fault" has only happened since renewing the Coolant Temp Sensor for the ECU so the ECU is probably relearning fuel trims etc. However, if the lambda sensor has gone weak, whether because the heater in it is dead/dying or because the sensor itself is dead/dying it will maybe take a bit longer for the ECU to relearn. What's the mileage and do you know if the Lambda sensor has ever been replaced since new?
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Nov 2nd, 2018, 19:12 | #10 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 01:55
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
|
What plugs have you got at the moment and what are the gaps like on them?
Also worth adding, as suggested before i think, about 2L of meths to the fuel tank as long as it's at a 1/4 or below. Can't remember if you did it or not last time i suggested it.
__________________
Cheers Dave Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........ |
The Following User Says Thank You to Laird Scooby For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|