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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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Any Advice?Views : 13367 Replies : 248Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 22nd, 2020, 09:44 | #31 | |
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Regards, John.
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Jan 22nd, 2020, 10:16 | #32 | |
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The "E" in GLE historically for Volvo was used to denote fuel injection (from the German word einspritzt = injection, dates back to the Bosch injection on the 164GLE) but with the more widespread adoption of fuel injection has generally come to mean "Executive" . To give a more universal idea of the comparison between a GLT and GLE mechanically, they're usually very similar with the GLT having a slightly lower ratio back axle (normally!) to give slightly livelier acceleration. Other manufacturers examples of the relationship between GLT and GLE are roughly speaking : Ford GT = GLT, Ghia = GLE Vauxhall SRi = GLT, CDi = GLE I picked those as they're mainstream models to illustrate the basic differences, Loki has gone in details of trim etc so i won't repeat all that. As for the injection systems, i believe Motronic came in (officially) around 1996 although some refer to the LH system as Motronic. Any 240 you buy with electronic injection will be either L or LH Jetronic. Most are likely to be K-Jetronic (mechanical injection) which is generally a reliable system and has no ECU to go wrong. I'm not sure when the improved rustproofing started on the 240, i know it started as a result of cheap Russian steel that was on the market in the mid 70s so many early (pre 1980) 240s have now succumbed to Tin-wormski. That's one of the reasons i suggested go for as late a model as possible. Any 4-speed auto is overdrive, the 3rd ratio (whether it's denoted as "3" or "D") will be the same as 4th in a manual car, 1:1 ratio. On the ZF box, the forward speeds (if memory serves) are denoted as 1, 2, 3, D and on the AW7x transmissions, 1, 2, D with a button on the side of the gear lever. This is an "overdrive defeat" button, after selecting "D", press this button and it should bring an orange upwards poiniting arrow on the instrument cluster. Automatic shifts are restricted to the first 3 gears. Press the button again to release the defeat and it should (above 45-50 on a light ish throttle) shift into overdrive/top gear. The defeat is handy for overtaking when you don't want/need full kickdown for overtaking. For example, you're on a dual carriageway/motorway at 70mph, slight incline and a lorry in front of you and limited time to get past - kickdown would be too much but you still need a bit extra on a part-throttle overtake. Squeeze the loud pedal, hit the defeat button and it drops into 3rd, accelerating better than it would in overdrive and as you reach the sped you want, hit the defeat button again and as soon as the box senses the normal circumstances to engage 4th (O/D) it changes up. Similar can be done on the ZF box but you need to move the lever to 3 and then back to D.
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Jan 22nd, 2020, 13:53 | #33 |
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I've got a '92 240 Estate for sale if you're interested? It was great as my first car, lots of work done by myself to learn the ropes but he can still put his stamp on it. It's in the Sales section, drop me a PM if you're after any other information.
Cheers Alex
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2008 V50 2.0D R-Design @ 175K Previously 1992 Volvo 240 SE Estate B230F/M47 (was AW70) @ 200K (I wish I could've kept him) |
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Jan 22nd, 2020, 18:00 | #34 |
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Thanks for the replies all.
Loki - thanks for that correction - I was just assuming what the T stood for, things are never so simple! Toys are good things but on the down side, they tend to go wrong (my 850 was a T5 which I loved, but had all kinds of bits that the kids, when small, could fiddle with and started going wrong, which is why I got rid of it in the end. I'm sure we all look back at cars we had which now would have been worth hanging on to!). LS - those comparisons are really helpful, and I'll try to avoid anything that might suffer from tin-wormski. On transmission, things are becoming slightly clearer as I'm reading all the replies. John and Alex - budget is a low as possible for maximum return. Hmmm. But definitely something we can drive home - when the plan was to get something needing lots of work (very cheap) for him to learn on and another modern car to drive, condition on the project didn't matter, but now we've found one car that he can learn to work on and also drive, I'd rather put the money into something that's together already and just could be improved. When I've bought in the past, I've always looked for fsh and lower mileage and it's more or less worked for me. As for budget, I saw this which is slightly over but if it was an estate, I'd try to negotiate: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...4181496489371/ And I really appreciate your last comment, John - I'm pretty sure the answer's yes, he does. And he'll be reading this soon, so the answer's yes, he'd better. :-) |
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Jan 23rd, 2020, 17:13 | #35 |
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OK, reality of what's out there kicking in. Given what's been said about the smaller engines, is a 5-speed manual 1990 2.0L GL, 12 months MoT, 185000 miles, price about half the one I linked to above, a bad idea? I'm sure lots of variables could affect the car, but all things being equal?
Last edited by Chris152; Jan 23rd, 2020 at 17:34. |
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Jan 23rd, 2020, 20:24 | #36 |
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Can't comment on pricing as I can't see the FB advert[I don't do "social"media] It's the mid eighties since I had a 245-and then it was an auto-but would imagine it's much like my V70[140] in that it's no ball of fire,never going to win a "traffic light GP" but is more than capable of holding its own in modern traffic.This may or may not be a good thing but it might teach him how to read the road ahead/anticipation for any overtakes rather than relying on sheer grunt to pass slower moving traffic.If the price seems reasonable to you and as it has a full "ticket" it can't hurt to have a look/test drive can it?
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Jan 23rd, 2020, 20:35 | #37 |
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The two litre was introduced to get below a tax threshold in, I think, Italy, Chris.
As 'L.S,' said, it will do the business, but has to work harder to do it, which tends to hurt economy. Unless your lad is looking to carry heavy loads and / or haul a heavy trailer, it will probably serve him very well. Why not take an extended test drive and see how he gets on with it? If the rest of the car is sound, it may not be an unreasonable compromise to accept the smaller engine. It is much better to buy a good car with a smaller engine than a poor one with the larger one, and It may also help with his insurance, too. From your description at, I assume, c£1500, it doesn't sound a bad buy at all. Is there perhaps a knowledgeable forum member in your area who might be prepared to look at it with you in exchange for some beer tokens, to give you greater confidence? Regards, John.
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Jan 24th, 2020, 14:41 | #38 |
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We'll definitely take it for a test drive if we can (I have to take out a day's insurance as mine counts as a commercial vehicle, so the insurance doesn't cover driving someone else's car) and take it from there. But it does seem like it may be a shame not to wait for the right car - I'm sure the 15% less engine capacity could make quite a difference over nearly 200 000 miles. And now another 2L one (Torslanda) has come on the radar - being patient vs not missing a good thing's not an easy balance...
ps - looking to the future, is it a much more complex job to replace a 2L engine with a 2.3L engine than to replace a 2L with a 2L? Does everything fit both engines or do you end up having to replace all kinds of other bits? Last edited by Chris152; Jan 24th, 2020 at 15:04. |
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Jan 24th, 2020, 15:27 | #39 |
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I certainly wouldn’t get hung up regarding the 2.0 Ltr. The cars are more than capable in today’s traffic- you have to accept that these are from a different era and cannot compete with modern lightweight cars produced today. You will drive a classic for all the reasons already noted so the advantages out way the minor engine size- none are designed to be fast cars- none of them are! Just drive it with consideration in every aspect. Service it properly & the 2 Litre will take you to the moon and back.
Good Luck. Bob. (You will soon find out why people stop and say "I had one- best car I ever owned") Last edited by Bob Meadows; Jan 24th, 2020 at 15:32. |
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Jan 24th, 2020, 15:53 | #40 | ||
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For a simple capacity increase, few if any problems and the argument would exist that you bought it from a scrapyard as a 2.0 engine and fitted it, while you know one end of a spanner from the other you weren't aware (or even looking) for capacity details. You could even say it was in the car when you got it and had no reason to doubt it...... Quote:
That will reflect even more harshly in todays world. The extra 300cc makes a huge difference so going for the B230 from the off would be the only way i'd consider it. That said i'e always knwon high performance cars and learned to drive in a straight-6, 2.4 EFi in the early 80s. Took my test in an MG Metro but that's another story! I now have a B280E powered 760GLE and that is a world apart from the B230E 740GLEs i've previously had. In terms of performance and economy it's still no match for my other car which is a 2.7 V6 but they're totally different animals. They do however share a 90 degree V6 architecture, a 4-speed auto box (overdrive 4th obviosuly) and a similar kerb-weight of just under 1500kg. However, no estate version of that car exists, the closest estate i have found in terms of size, equipment, performance, comfort, quality etc is the 760GLE estate. For that i'm willing to compromise on the performance/economy.
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