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My 940 turbo build thread. (was DomF1 car)

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Old Nov 21st, 2018, 22:27   #11
classicswede
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Photos are all now showing. Must have been a forum issue?

The T cam does fall flat on its face by 4500RPM. Of the factory cams the A cam is about the best but still flat after 5500-6000RPM. Cams like the VX,V and K do rev higher but at the expense of low end. A good turbo grind cam like the T3 or T2 is a much better choice if the A cam is not cutting it
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Old Jan 3rd, 2019, 14:00   #12
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OK let me write this again. I lost it all before

The chargecooler setup is working well. I'm seeing 8c starting temps on a cold day and peaked at 16c after a 2 mile hard boost kind of drive. The drive to this point was normal driving with boost on and off for 50 miles. I have a sensor in the return hose so the temps at the charge cooler will be cooler as the water enters.

The air con pump has been removed. I had no working air con and i'm not fussed about it. No idea what was wrong with it. I have most of the stuff to refit but will stick the pump online as spares/repairs.

I have ordered the inner steering rod as it's making a knocking sound. I hope to fit it soon ish.

The front bushes are all replaced with poly.

I replaced the alternator bushes x 2. I was not aware I needed 3 so one still need doing. I was surprised at how worn the old bushes where. They had all gone rock hard with age and distorted on the ends. The poly bushes are about 10 pounds each so I'm not best pleased at needing 3 after the costs for 2. The belt was also replaced.

I fitted LED lights in the cabin and it's made a massive difference. I used these and hot glued them into the lens... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/48-SMD-Wa...72.m2749.l2649

Note it took a good 10 days to turn up. Hot glue is your friend. This also just fits into the boot light. It's a really cheap and easy mod.

I have now started on the rear bushes. The pan rod was pretty simple to swap to poly once I worked out how to fit it back. (Fit the long bolt first and then wiggle the fat bush end back onto the car.

The large bushes on the 2 dog bones from the diff forwards are a pita to remove. I done one so far and had to drill it to death. I finally got it out and now I have the fun to fit the new poly bush. I'm waiting on a press so fingers crossed it's fitted soon. The bolt into the diff was mega tight and needs a good clean up. I will be using my shot cabinet for that.

Some pictures attached.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2019, 14:04   #13
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The QTP exhaust bypass valve was removed and refitted. It works on the bench with 12v but I get no power from the switch end and it's notchy as hell so suspect it's screwed. New switch on order. One of the small screws on the valve had fallen out so I shot blasted the crud off it and took the thing apart. It had hardly any grease in the gear part so I stuffed more in.

The valve must have opened on it's own as after boosting the **** of the car I got a loud exhaust and the turbo made a lot more power with the 3" open. I'm not kidding it was a different car.
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Old Jan 4th, 2019, 02:52   #14
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Electric exhaust cutouts seem to be problematic. Boost actuated cutouts look like they would be more reliable.



For the big poly bushes I used a 3" piston ring compressor. At first I tried putting the bush completely in the compressor and was getting nowhere. The trick was to put the bush only half way in the ring compressor, this creates just enough of a cone shape for the edge to sit a bit further in the torque rod, and this then allows them to get started when using a press.

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Old Jan 4th, 2019, 13:44   #15
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Thank you. I have never seen those before. I think if I can get this valve working i'll be happy. However if it plays up your option looks a better idea.

Regarding the bush, That's a good idea and i think I have one of those in the shed.

Press turns up today so will try it out.

Thanks again.
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Old Jan 8th, 2019, 14:53   #16
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Top man! That trick worked a treat and in it went. I still need to do the other dog bone above it.

Now I notice the frame (that holds all the diff ect) sort of slots? into the body of the car. I'm guessing that's going to be a pita to swap out.

Here are some pictures of the job and my new toy. The press fits on my bench and is small enough to put away. That is a big improvement over the old press which I sold on ebay a couple of years back.

I also fitted my gps tracker and started painting my dull bumpers.
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Old Jan 9th, 2019, 00:29   #17
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The bracket unbolts so should be easy to replace those two bushes.

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Old Jan 9th, 2019, 12:49   #18
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OK Thanks. I'll have to support the diff then. That QTP valve is being a bugger. The wiring is a mess and it's blowing the fuse so i'll strip it all out and re do it.
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Old Jan 28th, 2019, 14:39   #19
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I have the valve working again on new wiring. Not driven the car for 2 weeks and it's not going out again for another 2 weeks. It sounds good though.

I found 2 of the spark plugs had bend electrodes where the spark cables attach. No idea how they got like this. Another had the metal nut come off and was stuck in it's boot. I replaced all 4 sparks and now the to end ignition flutter has mostly gone. Maybe the dizzy and arm need swapping?


I'm going to post a thread about wasted spark.
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Old Jan 29th, 2019, 14:47   #20
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It's about time I found out how good or bad my perfromance is. I booked a power test on the 16th feb.

I suspect it's pushing 190BHP. I was neck and neck with a friends merc w124 2.8 litre. He says it's a factory 190bhp.
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