"Clonk" still there after replacing enginemounts

[Symes]

The 3rd pic ... Looks like the metal ring is out of shape, is that supposed to be the case?

[R-P]

I think so, this means they are original. I have come across this before and as far as I can tell, they (Volvo) changed this so you can now fit 4 identical ones with round inserts.

My engine was replaced in ~2009 when I bought the car, but I doubt they fitted new rubbers. And I have no clue whether they reused the original subframe or swapped the new engine including subframe. ("New" means from a UK import with 80k km (similar age) instead of my run down, compression-leaking 194k km, untuned police engine). So I have no clue whether my dented subframe is my own or came with the engine. I am fairly certain I didn't damage it myself, and it has been like this for at least 7 years since I discovered it, so it is not causing the problem I am trying to solve (so why mention it...))

Edit: Come to think of it, they reused my GT gearbox as far as I know, so I am assuming they kept my original subframe.

[MarvinMitt]

The ellipse shape is normal for that bush, makes the subframe bolt holes easier to align IIRC.

I had a big clonk from subframe bushes but your bushes don't look anything as bad as mine did.

[D5meister]

Often the rear brakes give a clonk as the shoes move forward or back after reversing and braking.

Sometimes the fronts give a little clonk after manouvering. The pads hopping in the play

The inner cv joints do wear a little and wrattle/ knock (not really a clonk) the outers dont.

The strut top mounts can get noisey. sometimes worse in damp weather.


Sometimes get an odd blump sound from the base of steering column where it goes thru rubber bush in firewall. try silicone spray on it.

The exhaust could have a crack enabling physical movement - mine went just after the turbo on a 90 deg bend

[ASt85]

Originally Posted by D5meister

The exhaust could have a crack enabling physical movement - mine went just after the turbo on a 90 deg bend

In common with D5meister's post, it might also be worth checking the rear exhaust mount these can look as though they are OK as the exhaust stays pretty much in position even though the rear most metal "rod" has rotted through inside the rubber.

[john493]

Guys,
Sorry to hijack this thread

My 2007 2.4D had no vacuum pipes on the front & rear engine mounts when I bought the car nearly 4 years ago. I've finally got round to looking at this.

(I think this came about from Mr Clutch fitting a new clutch slave before I bought the car - the vacuum pipes were just hanging in the engine bay with screws in the ends to block them off)

My mounts look shot so I'm going to buy new - but how does the rubber vacuum pipe fit onto the mount ?

The raised boss on the mount is clearly too big for the rubber vacuum pipe to fit over it.

[Willow place]

It would appear the plastic nipple has been broken off of the raised boss,well it was on mine.

[john493]

I just found out that the plastic connectors come with the vacuum pipe, I just bought this item:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-V...wAAOSw-3FZHX8r

[MarvinMitt]

The plastic connector is a standard 90 degree angled 3,2mm hose insert available in every decent car or tool shop.

[rogerb]

There is a Volvo mod to help with this type of clonking.
Basically two large thick O rings that fit between the subframe and body round the rear mounts on the engine subframe. Unfortunately I am not home at the moment so can’t tell you the part numbers. I fitted them to my car along with the other kit that has four big shaped plastic washers that fit between the subframe bushes and the washers with the bolts.
My car is/ was a 2003 AWD auto D5. Now dead due to gearbox.
With regards to the rear mount, I changed mine on the drive in less than a hour. By supporting the engine, unbolting the steering rack and lowering the rear of the subframe.
Still a bit fiddly but easier than with the subframe in place.