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Old Oct 25th, 2020, 13:26   #41
Laird Scooby
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Should I of heard it buzzing inside the car, as I didn't?

It's a 1996 on a P reg. Under the passenger seat there is a cradle but think its a fuel filter?

James.
For the first second or two when you first switch the ignition on or if you crank it for a couple of second and release the key, you should hear the pumps run for a second or two.

You need to check that cradle, find out if it's just a filter or if there's a second pump there. Yours is on the changeover between the older two pump (low pressure lift pump in the tank, high pressure pump underneath) but it would also pay to check the VIN plate :

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/vin_900.shtml

The 10th character denotes the model year :

Model Year
R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998

If your car really is a 96MY it will have T as the 10th character, i suspect it might be S or even R if your car had been hanging around in a dealership for some time.
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Old Oct 25th, 2020, 14:28   #42
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
For the first second or two when you first switch the ignition on or if you crank it for a couple of second and release the key, you should hear the pumps run for a second or two.

You need to check that cradle, find out if it's just a filter or if there's a second pump there. Yours is on the changeover between the older two pump (low pressure lift pump in the tank, high pressure pump underneath) but it would also pay to check the VIN plate :

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/vin_900.shtml

The 10th character denotes the model year :

Model Year
R = 1994 S = 1995 T = 1996 V = 1997 W = 1998




If your car really is a 96MY it will have T as the 10th character, i suspect it might be S or even R if your car had been hanging around in a dealership for some time.

That will be just a filter under car as mine is a 1996 on N plate and it has only one in tank b*stard ..........I mean pump
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Old Oct 25th, 2020, 14:58   #43
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That will be just a filter under car as mine is a 1996 on N plate and it has only one in tank b*stard ..........I mean pump
You may well be right Mark but i've known many cars of all marques that turned out to be older than the reg plate, sometimes a lot older! In one case the car is registered as a V/99 reg but had been out of production since 1995.

For that reason and because 95/96 was the changeover year for the dual/single pupmp set ups, that's why i'm urging James to double-check everything.
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Old Oct 25th, 2020, 15:06   #44
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The 10th character is a V. Looked underneath and it is a fuel filter canister.

Does this mean the in tank pump may well be knackered, or still a sensor fault like CPS, Fuel relay etc?

James.
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Old Oct 25th, 2020, 15:29   #45
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The 10th character is a V. Looked underneath and it is a fuel filter canister.

Does this mean the in tank pump may well be knackered, or still a sensor fault like CPS, Fuel relay etc?

James.
My in tank pump got louder and louder ( it was like having a Chinook helicopter in the rear of the car ) when it was on the way out but I don't know if that's always the case. Once replaced it's silent.
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Old Oct 25th, 2020, 15:37   #46
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My in tank pump got louder and louder ( it was like having a Chinook helicopter in the rear of the car ) when it was on the way out but I don't know if that's always the case. Once replaced it's silent.
not had any noise from anything. If it is the pump. Amazing 1 minute worked and 3 minutes later it's dead. We'll see what happens when other parts fitted. Hoping not the pump as looks fiddly!

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Old Oct 25th, 2020, 17:59   #47
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not had any noise from anything. If it is the pump. Amazing 1 minute worked and 3 minutes later it's dead. We'll see what happens when other parts fitted. Hoping not the pump as looks fiddly!

James.
If you've fed the pump direct from the battery James and still no noise/movement from it or any petrol from there, chances are the pump is FUBAR.

I'd remove the pump first and bench test it to confirm but i would say at this point the pump is knackered. Before you do, double-check you get 12V on the pump while cranking by putting the -ve probe of your multimeter in the black connector to the pump and the +ve of the meter in the pink connector and stand outside the car so you can see the meter (most have stands to tilt them for this purpose) or get your glamorous assistant to crank the engine while you observe the meter.

I know i said before to check fuses 1, 11 and 13 and you said you had checked #1 and you'd check 11 and 13 later, have you done that?
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Old Oct 25th, 2020, 18:02   #48
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Did you fit a new fuel pump relay ?
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Old Oct 25th, 2020, 18:37   #49
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Originally Posted by Laird Scooby View Post
If you've fed the pump direct from the battery James and still no noise/movement from it or any petrol from there, chances are the pump is FUBAR.

I'd remove the pump first and bench test it to confirm but i would say at this point the pump is knackered. Before you do, double-check you get 12V on the pump while cranking by putting the -ve probe of your multimeter in the black connector to the pump and the +ve of the meter in the pink connector and stand outside the car so you can see the meter (most have stands to tilt them for this purpose) or get your glamorous assistant to crank the engine while you observe the meter.

I know i said before to check fuses 1, 11 and 13 and you said you had checked #1 and you'd check 11 and 13 later, have you done that?
I only connected a positive wire from the battery to the pink wire. Not fed a negative from the battery to the black wire of the pump wiring connector.
I'll phone my assistant who will help and I'll get the multimeter on the wires and get my friend to crank the engine and see if we have voltage tomorrow.

Could I disconnect the wiring harness and directly connect a live and negative feed directly from the battery, that I can site in the boot for testing or does it need the float/sender unit to form the power supply circuit?

I have re-checked fuse 1,11 and 13 again this morning and all good.

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Did you fit a new fuel pump relay ?
Not yet, still awaiting delivery, hopefully arriving Tuesday!

Many thanks to you both. James.
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Old Oct 25th, 2020, 18:56   #50
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I only connected a positive wire from the battery to the pink wire. Not fed a negative from the battery to the black wire of the pump wiring connector.
I'll phone my assistant who will help and I'll get the multimeter on the wires and get my friend to crank the engine and see if we have voltage tomorrow.

Could I disconnect the wiring harness and directly connect a live and negative feed directly from the battery, that I can site in the boot for testing or does it need the float/sender unit to form the power supply circuit?

I have re-checked fuse 1,11 and 13 again this morning and all good.


Many thanks to you both. James.
Feeding the pink wire with a +ve feed direct from the car battery should be enough James.
You could disconnect the plug and feed the pump directly from a slave battery as you describe but be careful not to let the +ve touch the level sender wire!
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