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XC90 '02–'15 General Forum for the P2-platform XC90 model |
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Suspension noise I cannot traceViews : 3372 Replies : 23Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 31st, 2015, 17:06 | #1 |
New Member
Last Online: Mar 9th, 2024 18:31
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Location: Argyll
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Suspension noise I cannot trace
Having had a couple of volvos, I'm no stranger to the seemingly interminable suspension clunks but this particular one has me confounded. I've had this particular problem for about 10 thousand miles on a 2007 xc90 with 100k on the clock:
I seem to have vibration through the steering wheel at 60 mph plus and also when I brake. when I turn full lock, I get a very, very loud, quite high pitched "clank," that sounds like a metallic joint or something under a lot of stress / compression - not just a general clunk. I also get it when I brake hard from normal road speed to a stop, say at a roundabout. Pretty sure it is from the offside and definitely at the front. I have checked the ball joints, steering and track rods, wheel balance and bushes and looked at the arb links, spring seats and given everything a good prise to check for movement with both wheels raised but can't find anything. Tyre wear looks reasonably normal although a bit more worn on the outer of the tyres but not excessive. New genuine volvo pads and discs have been put on about 15k ago. I'm not sure if it is related but in wet weather I very occasionally get the abs and brake assist / tracs message saying it needs a service, but this always disappears when the car is restarted. Could it all be a hub related issue or a cv joint? The reason I ask is that I see on the service history that both cv joints were replaced about 50k miles ago and wonder if something wasn't done properly back then. All help is appreciated, it's driving me nuts. |
Aug 31st, 2015, 17:16 | #2 |
C70 T5
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CV Joints are usually tested from lock to lock and as the noise seems more severe at full lock I would suspect is related to that area.
Do you know where and what parts were used to replace the CV joints? Have you tried getting it up on a ramp or stands and got someone to turn the the wheel from lock to lock whilst you have have a look and listen underneath?
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Aug 31st, 2015, 19:24 | #3 |
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Yes I've turned lock to lock with the wheels up but can't replicate the noise as I assume the weight of the car needs to be on the tyres to create the noise, judging by the clank which does sound like something under a lot of tension.
Seems to be difficult to replicate intentionally to trace the noise anyway. Sod's law law I suppose. I'm not sure what the reason was for replacing the cv joints and if they are genuine replacements or not it was a previous owner that had this done and I just have a receipt from a non Volvo garage. The noise also happens when braking from road speeds but is not as loud and can happen regardless of if the wheels are being turned at the same time. Turning lock to lock and driving round and round does not produce the usual clackety clack of worn cv joints, just a one off, very loud clank. As I can't find issue with any other obvious areas, this was where I wondered if the issue could be. I'm not very sure of the hub assembly and what does what but did wonder if some problem in here, together with a duff abs ring could explain the symptoms. |
Aug 31st, 2015, 19:36 | #4 |
Junior Member
Last Online: May 24th, 2019 19:28
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Location: Sheffield
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I had a similer noise on my 90 and it was the ARB link that had come loose where it meets the shock.
Turns out that some links do not have enough thread cut into them so they have to be VERY tight to not move. |
Aug 31st, 2015, 22:27 | #5 |
Member
Last Online: Aug 10th, 2023 18:16
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I have just cured the noise you describe by replacing the bottom suspension arm and balljoint, I also replaced the drivers side engine mount, which like the suspension arm was contaminated with diesel and very soft, although this mount cured other noises the bottom arm has got the clunk.
So that's diesel leak cured, engine mount fitted, bottom arm and ball joint fitted, just another 98 jobs to do 😕 |
Sep 9th, 2015, 19:52 | #6 |
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Thanks for all the replies. I've had it in at a good Volvo specialist and they can't find anything and checked all the arb links, ball joints, tie rods, spring seats etc. they said there was a tiny amount of play in the driveshaft but didn't think it excessive at all. A wheel was out of balance so that cures the vibration so there is just a small amount when braking.
I've been trying to pin down the exact conditions to cause it and it seems if I drive forward, press hard on the brake, it will clank once then be fine, then if I reverse it and brake it will do the same. Comes from the front offside wheel area and can feel it clunk through the steering wheel. But it also does it if turning the car full or nearly full lock even if I don't touch the brakes although less often than if braking. Am I right in thinking it must be steering related? I'm wondering if something is knackered in the hub which would cause this noise and also the vibration when braking. Tempted to get a dial gauge and investigate this area. |
Sep 9th, 2015, 20:13 | #7 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Jul 26th, 2021 21:24
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How are the engine/transmission mounts?
Another reason for a loud noise, at the steering lock can be a coil spring that is moving (rotating) in place. The steering stops located on the control arm are in plastic and can fail causing noise at full lock. Have you tried to ask someone to turn the steering at rest and wheels on ground and keep a hand on various parts of the suspension (making sure not to get your hand trapped) to feel where the noise comes from.
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Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ECTts0FSVSOT_c Last edited by oragex; Sep 9th, 2015 at 20:17. |
Sep 10th, 2015, 09:38 | #8 | |
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Sep 13th, 2015, 22:14 | #9 |
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The wishbone bushes must be really in pieces to cause a clunk. Good thing is it's good to have them replaced anyway as they are a typical wear item. Make sure the mechanic only uses either original Volvo or Lemforder wishbones as any other replacement brand is known not to last more than 1 year.
As for the clunk when stopping, I would look closer at the ball joint, upper spring seat, engine/transmission mounts. Also a close inspection to the caliper mounting bolts and lower strut mounting bolts.
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Sep 14th, 2015, 07:14 | #10 |
The Engineer
Last Online: Apr 12th, 2024 13:38
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The clank on braking and setting off I found to be the rear engine mount. the spring inside had broken, so once the ends of the spring had moved past each other you got no further noise. The replacement of the lower suspension arms cured another clonk on braking and the vibration that occoured at high speed braking. Just got the RH engine mount to change now, and then the 48 or so other 'little jobs'! ie swirl arm replacement!
Cheers |
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