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Volvo s40 slow acceleration / sluggish

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Old May 26th, 2016, 07:19   #11
hasitha
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Thanks alot V40DSchariot

I read your thread as well, seems like i have the symptoms of your issue.. because i too checked the vac lines and the the vac line which goes to the shut off valve was damaged , the pipe neck had snapped. i super glued it. and the shut off valve works when shutting down, but could it be that there is some leak? is there a way to test it?

And please let me know, when you rev up the engine without any load. ( not in gear) did it rev up above 3000 rpms ?
mine doesnt.

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Old May 26th, 2016, 10:22   #12
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When I had the issues I took my car to a Volvo autthorised garage, the mechanic there had a tool which pushed into the vac lines that created a vacuum, I have'nt a clue what this tool is called, but that proved the turbo was good and a problem with the vac line somewhere.
If i remember rightly my car would rev over 3000rpm but only when left to get there, it would'nt rev round straight away.
From the shut off valve trace the vac line back to the solenoid, on the opposite side of the solenoid take the vac line off and seal up, a screw or bolt will work fine and try your car again.
I think it's a case of elimination and systematicly going through all the vac lines after trying the above method. If you have another piece of pipe to replace as your going through your search, it would only need a tiny hole to create a problem.
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Old May 26th, 2016, 12:17   #13
hasitha
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Thanks V40DSchariot

Yes like you said mine too revs up above 3000 when not in gear but takes a bit of time.. Well i actually presume it could be the same problem.

Can you please tell me which vac line to take off. There are two lines which goes solenoid below the vacuum tank. Should i seal the one which goes to the shut off valve or the other? I will search for more damaged hoses meanwhile.

Many thanks friends
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Old May 26th, 2016, 13:30   #14
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You need to check the solenoid, so you need to take the other pipe off and seal up, not the one that goes to the shut off valve. If you still have any doubts take both pipes off and seal both up.
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Old May 26th, 2016, 15:46   #15
hasitha
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You need to check the solenoid, so you need to take the other pipe off and seal up, not the one that goes to the shut off valve. If you still have any doubts take both pipes off and seal both up.
I blocked the line like you advised. Please check the photo below.
But it did not make any difference, it was the same. so could that be a issue? since it might make it worse or better right? since nothing happened could it be that the solenoid is worn?
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Old May 26th, 2016, 16:02   #16
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If you've got the right pipe and it's still the same i'd say the solenoid is good. Is that silicone around the solenoid? From reading your post there seems to be a lot of pipework that needs replacing.
I think the best way forward is to get a pipe the same size as the small vac pipes and swap one at a time and see if you find any difference that way and if you find a vac pipe thats faulty in anyway replace it.
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Old May 26th, 2016, 16:36   #17
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Thank you V40DSchariot
yes that is silicon. well i will update you guys soon as i get it scanned and fix it with new vac lines.

many thanks to everyone
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Old May 27th, 2016, 07:58   #18
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Could you guys please check the following video and let me it my turbo actuator is working properly. I just saw that the when revving up the car the actuator doesn't move .

Please let me know if it should move at high rpms or not?

https://youtu.be/u6TkDhuiZhw
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Old May 27th, 2016, 12:58   #19
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Buddy,take some pictures of your Vac lines behind the air inlet manifold, some of the hose placement look weird... Can you move the turbo actuator by hand(up and down, do NOT rotate the actuator arm!!!)? If not vanes are stuck.. if yes then there might be a problem with the actuator diaphragm.. remove the vac hose attached to the actuator diaphragm, ask somebody to rev the engine, block the vac line with your finger, you should feel the vacuum at higher rev's, but only at higher revs as vac solenoids work different when the car is stationary. Could somebody with a working engine confirm at what rpms there should be a vacuum in the hose connected to turbo actuator?
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Old May 27th, 2016, 13:39   #20
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Buddy,take some pictures of your Vac lines behind the air inlet manifold, some of the hose placement look weird... Can you move the turbo actuator by hand(up and down, do NOT rotate the actuator arm!!!)? If not vanes are stuck.. if yes then there might be a problem with the actuator diaphragm.. remove the vac hose attached to the actuator diaphragm, ask somebody to rev the engine, block the vac line with your finger, you should feel the vacuum at higher rev's, but only at higher revs as vac solenoids work different when the car is stationary. Could somebody with a working engine confirm at what rpms there should be a vacuum in the hose connected to turbo actuator?
Thank you Biotoxic for replying.

I will take some photos and post it here.
Well before i made the video i moved the actuator up and down, and it moved. and as you can see in the video as soon as the engine starts the actuator rods moves up. so i think the vanes aren't stuck by the looks of it. Whats your opinion?

I just came home and the car is warmed up then i asked my mom to accelerate to see if the Actuator moved. Well there was a slight movement i would say it was barely noticeable, i made a video but you cant actually see it move in the video so i didnt upload it.

Biotoxic you said to test if there is vacuum by removing the vac line which goes from the N75 valve to the turbo actuator right??
So should i unplug the hose from the solenoid and place my finger on the hole not in the hose right?

I will test it and get back to you.
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