Coughing Volvo 340

[MetaTapir]

Hi Everybody,

My "brand new" Volvo 340DL 1,4 from 83' with a B14 engine is coughing alot. It seems like air leak or gasoline trouble. I'm no mechanic...

I'd won't run idle, I have to gas, but it doesn't seem to need choke, quite the opposite. When I drive (especially in first and second gear) it jumps and coughs alot. If at any point I let go of the gas, the coughing stops. Likewise if I accelerate, it seems to run fine...
But to drive either without gas or accelerating wildly does cost money ;-)

The carburator (?) is supposedly a Weber, and those, I'v heard, are crap and will start to leak air in...

Have tried tightening the bolts tying the carburator to (whatever is underneath it) but to no avail...

Any advice?

[MetaTapir]

The carburator "foot" is genuinely covered in some sort of black gooey mass... Maybe to mask an air leak long enough for someone to buy the car without noticing the problem?

[macplaxton]

Sounds like an air leak.

Head over here: http://www.volvo300mania.com/uk/foru....php?f=6&t=571

[Clan]

Originally Posted by MetaTapir

Hi Everybody,

My "brand new" Volvo 340DL 1,4 from 83' with a B14 engine is coughing alot. It seems like air leak or gasoline trouble. I'm no mechanic...

I'd won't run idle, I have to gas, but it doesn't seem to need choke, quite the opposite. When I drive (especially in first and second gear) it jumps and coughs alot. If at any point I let go of the gas, the coughing stops. Likewise if I accelerate, it seems to run fine...
But to drive either without gas or accelerating wildly does cost money ;-)

The carburator (?) is supposedly a Weber, and those, I'v heard, are crap and will start to leak air in...

Have tried tightening the bolts tying the carburator to (whatever is underneath it) but to no avail...

Any advice?

The B14 4E weber 32DIR carb is very trouble free usualy and is NOT prone to the base warping . That rumour comes from the B172K engine :-) Maybe the accellerator pump jet has come loose and is pumping loads of fuel in everytime you press the pedal . an easy fix to tighten it .

[Chris_C]

It's also worth a check on the post air cleaner changed B14 Webers that the top plate of the carb isn't loose, as well as the carb casting itself.

So I'd take the air cleaner housing off (checking tightness of those bolts) check the 4 bolts from carb to manifold, the 3 (I think it's three from memory, you will see the ones I mean with the cleaner off) screws from carb top plate to carb, then put the air cleaner screws back in.

Each carb casting is aluminium, torque to the correct setting (which will be in the green books section of www.volvo300mania.com)

[srtames]

Hi, its worth checking the idle speed solenoid which sticks out side of carb. If you can turn on ignition you should hear it click . If you do not have a replacement try removing solenoid and jet and cut 3mm off jet . Also clean all the jets by removing air cleaner and blowing air down to interior base of carb. I have found carb very good if cleaned jets once a year.

Good luck , Steve

[B00TS]

Also well worth checking the manifold nuts and gaskets. I once acquired a 340 for free that was supposedly 'dead''.

All that was wrong with it was that the manifolds had come loose from the side of the head.

Tightened up the nuts and it ran as sweet as you like for another 50,000 miles!