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2003 S80 bi-fuel wonít switch to LPG

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Old Jan 27th, 2018, 23:43   #1
Bu5hy
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Angry 2003 S80 bi-fuel wonít switch to LPG

recently bought a 2003 s80 bi-fuel ( wife wonít let me drive the 2.5T anymore) anyway got it for a steel as the LPG system didnít work , as I said to the wife ďhow hard can I be ?Ē Well :
1. Changed the vapourisor elbow and solenoid
2. fitted a new filter
3. Checked fuses
4. Stripped down the distributor , cleaned thoroughly and found a small piece of (possibly O ring ) stuck in the side of the stepper motor , gave it a little push and it popped out , I now know this was not a good think to do .
5. Found a faulty injector and replaced for new .
6. Checked the plugs ( theyíre the multi point type ) going to change for bog standard NGK
7. Got plenty of heat circulating around the regulator.
8. Got a click sound from the boot area when operating the switch but not from the solenoid under the bonnet .
9. Tank is 3/4 full and as metioned thereís gas to the dizzy
10 . Screemed ďwhy wonít you workĒ at it !

Iíve read all the posts a learnt plenty from the guys on here , Iíd be happy right now if it just ran a little , even if it was rough , cut out after 10 miles , misfired , backfired or just broke wind !

Autogas 2000 have been great so far and Iíd recommend them highly.

Is there anyone out there with any help , advise or similar experience to mine please ?
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Old Jan 28th, 2018, 11:18   #2
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If the vapouriser solenoid is not clicking then have you cleaned inside it?

If clean inside then try a new coil on it
https://www.classicswede.co.uk/Bifue..._10879079.aspx
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Old Jan 28th, 2018, 12:43   #3
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If the vapouriser solenoid is not clicking then have you cleaned inside it?

If clean inside then try a new coil on it
https://www.classicswede.co.uk/Bifue..._10879079.aspx
Itís clean inside and a bought a new coil from yourselves, thereís no power to it , had a multi meter on the leads and thereís no voltage when the switch is activated (engine hot or cold)
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Old Jan 29th, 2018, 17:47   #4
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Looks like your might be best replacing teh front end for a propper system
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Old Jan 30th, 2018, 08:55   #5
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Have you checked the solenoid operation by applying 12v from an external supply to see if it switches?
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Old Jan 30th, 2018, 13:22   #6
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Have you checked the solenoid operation by applying 12v from an external supply to see if it switches?
Cheers for that , I havenít to be honest Iíll give that a go , that one should activate with the switch along with the rear one (obviously) I was wondering if the temperature sensor in the head would have to send a signal before the front one would operate.
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Old Jan 31st, 2018, 08:41   #7
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Cheers for that , I havenít to be honest Iíll give that a go , that one should activate with the switch along with the rear one (obviously) I was wondering if the temperature sensor in the head would have to send a signal before the front one would operate.
That would make sense, but it's so long since I had a bi-fuel I can't remember exactly how it works and unfortunately the manual I have doesn't cover the bi-fuel, so I can't look at a wiring diagram to see how it should operate.

When mine was faulty, it would switch over to gas briefly before the engine died of fuel starvation, so the theory seems sound.
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Old Jan 31st, 2018, 21:44   #8
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That would make sense, but it's so long since I had a bi-fuel I can't remember exactly how it works and unfortunately the manual I have doesn't cover the bi-fuel, so I can't look at a wiring diagram to see how it should operate.

When mine was faulty, it would switch over to gas briefly before the engine died of fuel starvation, so the theory seems sound.
Ok , wired to 12v it activates with a good click ( donít why I didnít try that before) , so the fact Iím not getting power from the system leads me think :
1. Faulty switch ( but if fires the rear solenoid ok )
2. It needs to be up to temperature ( faulty temp gauge )
3. Faulty ECU maybe !
4. Faulty relay ( learn how to check that )
5. Faulty stepper ( not fitted right now, away being tested )

I think thatís my list complete, these are just my workings out, I appreciate guys get cheesed off with folk cribbing rather than working it out for themselves on here but having looked through the forum Iíve seen plenty of rough running and also fail after running issues but not a wonít switch over at all problems as such , could be as classic swede said ďnew front end ď Just need to be sure Iím not throwing the baby out with the bath water first .
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Old Feb 6th, 2018, 16:14   #9
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If I remember rightly (and I often don't). The car will wait for the coolant temperature to reach a certain value before switching to LPG, mine used to switch within a mile - the obvious place to switch is the front (or both) solenoid/s. Can't remember where the sensor is though, some necam vaporisers have one in the body, but I think it's deleted in the Volvo installation. You need to check.

Won't be the stepper or distributer as that's after the solenoid.
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Old Feb 6th, 2018, 22:57   #10
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Yes Iíve been told the temperature sensor on the vaporiser is not used (although fitted to the casing ) I can only surmise at this point it gets a signal from the temp gauge on the head or via the ECU (a wiring diagram would be handy) my local Volvo dealership were reluctant to pass that on to me ďoddlyĒ .
Iím working away at the moment so Iíll have another bash on my return , thanks so much for the continuing help I really appreciate it.
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