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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Dash RemovalViews : 2039 Replies : 14Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 21st, 2015, 20:22 | #1 |
New Owner - 1800S
Last Online: Apr 8th, 2018 08:16
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Location: Tonbridge
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Dash Removal
Gents
Maybe a silly question, but I am trying to remove the dash and its all come out OK except it wont come off over steering spindle. I have taken of the stalks but it still looks like the mounting bracket is wider then the opening. Do you have to remove steering post? Any helpful advise would be very appreciated. Thanks John |
Nov 21st, 2015, 20:44 | #2 |
Senior Member
Last Online: May 10th, 2024 15:09
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John,
I'm 90% sure the column tube has to taken out before the dash can be removed. As the top of the tube where that small cowling is fastened is larger than the hole in the dash. It's easy to do , slacken off the bolts on the top mounting and those at the bottom of the column. Just make sure that you make a note of the order of Spring, washer etc. I did mine not so long ago. Another important thing , before the column is undone mark the column tube where the bottom bracket is held , because the tube has a slight tension on it. There's a spring on the bottom, which needs to be compressed, or measure the distance the bottom of the tube from the bracket. Hope this helps Dave |
Nov 21st, 2015, 20:53 | #3 |
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Last Online: Dec 14th, 2023 11:57
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Location: fareham
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I don't think the column needs to come out. But it does need to be dropped by removing the support post that bolts to the structure.
I've taken the dash out twice and didn't need to remove the column Russ |
Nov 21st, 2015, 22:07 | #4 |
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I'm pretty sure that the column tube has to be slid off the shaft. If it's got to be unfastened at the top then it will have to be unbolted at the bottom too, so in that case you might as well slide the tube out. That would make it a lot easier.
When I put a complete new dash, top and bottom in, i did it with the gauges, wiring loom, switches the lot connected, which made it quite heavy to handle. It took two of us to lift in place, being careful not to damage anything. We slid the column shaft through the the hole and slid the tube on after. It might be possible to leave it in place if the bracket that hold the small cowling on bend in wards. I have just looked at a spare dash and I think it's the only way it can be done. Unless Russ is right of course Dave |
Nov 22nd, 2015, 00:13 | #5 |
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It is better to remove the steering column as suggested. I have done a few dash removals to repair window frames and put new dash pads in. Also while you are in there check the column support bracket that attaches to the bottom of the window frame as many of these have become unattached due to rust. A few strategic spot welds sort them out. Also I find it easier when the front windscreen is also removed.
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Nov 22nd, 2015, 01:03 | #6 |
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I did mine with screen fitted but agree it would perhaps been easier with it out. I struggled to get the dash far enough in because it was up against the screen rubber. The new dash top backing was also thicker than the original .
I had to try and push the top of the dash down which was difficult with screen in place. Got there in the end. I did it that way , thinking the new dash top might get scratched by the windscreen fitters when they were stringing it in, because the edge of the rubber was below the dash. I suppose it's all I learning curve, as long you are happy with it in the end. Dave |
Nov 22nd, 2015, 11:38 | #7 |
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Last Online: May 23rd, 2024 10:52
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Location: Peterborough
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It sounds odd but it depends on the car (and the dash obviously) sometimes you can get the dash off with the steering column in place - because the hole in the dash is just big enough - and sometimes you can't.
Also some dashboards can be removed and replaced easily with plenty of room at each end and others appear to be almost 'sprung' in place and are an absolute b*****d to get out and back in without causing damage. I guess both the shells and the dash's must vary in size to a degree. Good advice about measuring where the column sleeve was and also keeping note of the shims under the mounting brackets. |
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Nov 22nd, 2015, 14:09 | #8 |
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Mike,
I agree with you the dash is a really tight fit between the screen pillars. I replaced the top dash pad with a new one , and before I fitted the pad I bent the ends of the metal frame inwards about 1/8". This was to try and make it easier to fit between the pillars and also the pad had a thicker backing than the original. Before I tried to fit the whole dash I tried just fitting the top to see what the clearence was like. It went in OK but was a bit tight. I don't think it would have gone in at all if I hadn't bent the frame in slightly. Going back to the column tube, it's not the cowling hole that's the issue its the inside hole where the mounting bracket is fixed. That is smaller a lot smaller. Unless they changed the design on different years I still think the tube has to be removed first. Dave |
Nov 22nd, 2015, 15:57 | #9 |
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One other thing I've just remembered. When the column tube is out, it's a doddle to fit the indicator and overdrive switches, because otherwise the screws are a hard to get at. Also when refitting, pull the wiring connectors through and attach them before sliding the tube all the way down.
Going for a lie down my head hurts now. Dave |
Nov 22nd, 2015, 17:08 | #10 |
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Not sure what you mean about the two holes Dave - its a long time since I did one, but yes fitting the stalks while the column is out is a good idea because the screws have to be really tight or the switches work loose after a while and you cant get good purchase when their half inside the dash.
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