1.6 Drive injector replacement guide

[Seanl82]

Hi all. Hopefully this is allowed and can be stickied, so it helps someone out in future. I'll add some photos in the next few days if so to help further.

Anyway, I purchased my car (2011 V60 1.6 Drive) in Feb this year. Looking through the history, it had been to Volvo in October last year to investigate a minor hesitation when under load. Volvo replaced the fuel filter and sent the previous owner on their way. When I purchased the car however, it was still apparent. It seemed to only happen when under full acceleration and happens once or twice for the briefest moment. I'd put 6k miles on the car since purchase and was living with it, however on my 83 mile return trip from work, I got 8 miles from home where I go up a long incline, and the car went into limp mode with a service now message appearing along with the engine management light. I managed to nurse it home but it was obvious the car was a cylinder down. The nearest garage is 2 mins away from home so I limped down to them the following day where they stuck it on their diagnostic. It's a generic snap on reader but pointed to cylinder 3. (I'm in rural North Devon so no one around with Vida unfortunately).

Always one to attempt my own repairs as I can't justify dealer labour costs for simple DIY jobs, I jumped into it after purchasing an injector which after research was the most likely cause.

Disclaimer: I'm not a professional mechanic but I'd call myself an accomplished DIYer. When working with the fuel system, always wear PPE and as the injectors can be under high pressure, ensure eye/face protection is worn. This is a diesel system so very unlikely to spontaneously combust, but if you have any reservations please leave it to the pros.

Tools required;

14mm open ended spanner
E12 female torx socket
Small flat bladed screwdriver
Rag(s)

Parts required;

Injector(s) Part Number: 50274v05 or an aftermarket alternative. I used a Siemens/VDO one from ECP/CP4L

Time required;

60 - 90 mins

Begin by ensuring the engine is cold and remove the top engine cover by firmly pulling at the 4 corners to release the ball joint mountings from the rubber retainers.
The injectors are surrounded by a black foam cover which is divided into a top and bottom part. The top can be moved out of the way with a little persuading, which then gives better access. Disconnect the offending loom connector by pressing the tab on the top of it down, and sliding it off. This is where the flat bladed screwdriver comes in handy as they can be a little stiff to either push the tab down or slide it off. Be gentle though, so as to avoid breaking anything.
This is now the most difficult part - removing the lower part of the foam cover! It's difficult to get access to the hex bolts and retaining forks with it in place but probably doable with some effort. I chose to tear the foam between the specific injector and tuck it out of the way.

Now you should be able to see along the back where the injectors fit into the head. Have a look for any evidence of leaks around each one as unmetered air can cause issues as well as the lack of fuel delivery. If you've been unable to determine which one is at fault, it's worth having a look to see if there is anything untoward.

If you know which one(s) are at fault or just replacing the lot, place the rag underneath the hard line to the specific injector you're working on and using the 14mm spanner, tucking a bit of the rag over the top to minimise the chance of pressurised fuel spitting up, loosen the securing nut. There is a rubber band on the hard line to stop the nut sliding all the way down into the ether but if it's not in place, use a cable tie to ensure it doesn't drop down.

Use the E12 hex socket on a ratchet with an extension bar to remove the bolt. Remove the securing fork if possible and gently wriggle the injector free.

There is a plastic guide/protector on the lower half so retain that if you haven't bought new. Place it on the new injector, and refitting is the reverse of removal.
The retaining forks are apparently susceptible to breaking so be careful when torquing down. Correct torque is 4nm (finger tight) plus 45 degrees.
I've not seen torque settings for the hard line, but ensure it's nice and tight without swinging off it and risk twisting the line or rounding the nut.

Once the wiring connector is back in place, leave the engine cover off and start the car. You're likely to hear a 'diesel knock from that injector where there is an air lock from the hard line being disconnected.
My engine warning light and rough running disappeared at this point so I knew it had been successful. With the engine running, place the rag over the hard line nut and with your eye protection/face mask in place, loosen the nut a half turn to expel any air. You'll see bubbles forming and when they're no longer apparent, nip it back up tightly. Turn the engine off and mop up any spilt fuel as best as you can. Start the engine again and let the engine warm up. The diesel knock may still be apparent but the air should now be minimal and should work its way through. Check for any fuel leaks and once warm, shut off and let the engine cool down.

Check to torque of the securing fork again, then replace the engine cover and go for a drive. It is recommended driving for approx 20 mins in mixed conditions to allow the ECU to re-learn injector values. If you have VIDA, you can calibrate it through the software.

I just took it on a short drive to begin with, and chanced it the next day for my commute. By the time I got to work the knock had gone and I'd already noticed my MPG had increased from 51-53 previously, up to 56-57 and performance had vastly improved (as much as the 1.6l diesel can!).

Pat yourself on the back for having the confidence to do it whilst realising it was actually very easy, and knowing you've just saved yourself over £100 in labour for a single one from the dealer!

[capri3]

And You forget one, you need enter new IMA codes(written on coil) so you need VIDA online programming this, so you need ASO or someone who have VIDA subscription.
Sorry for my english.

[Rocinante]

Originally Posted by capri3

And You forget one, you need enter new IMA codes(written on coil) so you need VIDA online programming this, so you need ASO or someone who have VIDA subscription.
Sorry for my english.

The original post seems to suggest that VIDA is not required and the whole job can get carried out without it.

This now seems to suggest you can't do that.

So which is correct ?

[GrahamBrown1]

The injectors do need to be coded in ideally, care could be taken if fitting a reman one as often the code is not the code on the injector solenoid but a new code that is issued during the reman process and should come with the reman injector.

[monkeh]

Point to note, the injector seat needs to be meticulously clean. A tool needs to be used to clean the seat either made up, like a piece of wood or a purpose made tool to cut and clean the seat.
Good job on the writeup, although the procedure for a blowing injector stops at "wiggle injector free"!
I've had to take days to soak a d5 injector with carb cleaner, eventually running the engine at high rpm releasing the injector clamp. Relying on the engine pressure to pop it loose. Definitely an arse puckering moment!