Engine: TD: 2.5 TDI fuel pump timing mark / base settings

[Turbodave]

Gents,

Appreciate this topic has been done to death and yes, I have spent the past 24hrs scouring the internet, reading threads on here and the Audi forums and looking at several images.

Can I find the timing mark/s on my diesel pump? Can I hell. From what I gather, the pump body has a small mark at roughly 10 o'clock when viewed from the n/s/f wing and the pulley, the mark is where the cog section and outer metal 'flywheel' meet?

Basically, mine has consumed it's belt and is now dead in the water. I'm fairly confident I can get it to TDC (some kind soul has marked the crank side previously) plus can check via the bell housing / flywheel marks and I'm ok with the tensioners on the pump side (I think!)

I have the Autodata information but as said, I'm struggling with the pump timing and no end of reading and researching is helping.

The car ran fine prior to it going so my hope is that I can set it 'roughly' and get it started and then have it fine tuned by a professional - and on that note, if anybody can recommend somebody near Fife / The Forth Road Bridge, it'd be appreciated.

Cheers

[RiPsTa33]

The pump timing mark is a faint groove between the tipex marks
The timing mark on the pulley is a small nick near the belt (i'll try and get a pic later
With the pump belt removed slacken the bolt just below the tipex marks and the steel packer slides out
Line up the pulley mark with the pump mark and tighten the bolt back up without the packer in to lock the pump
Set the engine to TDC using the flywheel mark in the bottom of the geabox bellhousing
Fit the belt and adjust the tensioners
Slacken the locking bolt and refit the packer
Turn the engine at the crank by hand 2 full revolutions and check the marks are still lined up
I'll do a proper write up later as i have one in bits at the minute

[Turbodave]

That's a massive help, much appreciated.

I know it's a total bodge but I'm half tempted to get a belt (£12 from the local factors) and just try and get it timed up to make sure it starts or even turns over. It made one hell of a crack when it stopped running - last thing I want to do is spend a fair whack getting the belts done by a specialist only to discover something more serious has gone wrong and it was all in vain.

I'll have a look on the cogged section for that mark this evening - it's perhaps full of muck but then again, I was looking on the main outer wheel rather than the cog element.

[NI_Volvo_Nut]

Set it to the mark and bring it forward by 1 tooth, this is how an Audi expert told me to sort mine and after 3 months of ****ing about with a dial gauge, it started and ran perfectly, all be it had the MIL on

[Turbodave]

This has been creating no end of issues last night, it still won't run but I've not lost faith yet. So far...

There are painted marks on the cam cover / cam pulley on the o/s - I assumed some kind soul had marked TDC and when I put the flywheel on it's mark on the bell housing, sure enough the marks on the o/s cam pulley lined up. All good.

I then removed the packer plate, set the pump as near as dammit to it's mark. Locked it and fitted the new diesel pump belt starting on the diesel pump, over the lower pulley and then round the cam then refitted the upper tensioner.

Then made a school boy error and after 20mins of wondering why it wouldn't tension and why the pointer on the upper tensioner wasn't moving, I realised the pointer was no longer there and has sheared clean off.

So...

I can only assume the loud crack that was heard when the car was started and then subsequently cut out a few seconds later, was the tensioner giving up the ghost and in turn, the belt went slack and the cam turned within it, ripping off a good 5" section of teeth.

I'm now trying to get a tensioner for it - I am loathed to spend £100 on a kit as for some reason, my gut tells me the car may not be worth saving. I always said if something costly went wrong, that'd be it. It's done it's job, it owes me nothing... but, I ain't giving up yet.

I've taken some pictures of where I'm at so far - I'll pop them up later so you knowledgable chaps can keep me right and / or it may help others. I've found there's a lot of info on these belts, but also alot of conflicting advice and it's very easy to get swamped by the technical jargon!

Cheers

[RiPsTa33]

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Vo...2f90fff&000578

Use code websaver25 to bring the price down to £26.55 with free delivery

[Turbodave]

Originally Posted by RiPsTa33

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Vo...2f90fff&000578

Use code websaver25 to bring the price down to £26.55 with free delivery

I did have a look on Euro, no idea how I missed the tensioner on it's own. Then again, I also missed the fact mine has sheared a section clean off it so perhaps time to get myself along to Specsavers.

But, much obliged for the link. Sadly the local stores don't carry stock so it's looking like tomorrow before I can get back on the case and hopefully get it back up and running again.

I really do need to do all the belts / tensioners / water pump but I'm somewhat reluctant to invest alot of time / money in the car as it really isn't worth it. It's showing it's age now, been a fantastic workhorse but maybe it's time to move on.

Anyways, shall update this - no doubt with more tales of woe and despair!

Thanks again

[Turbodave]

Ok, update time and a cry for help before I reach for the matches...

I got a tensioner through a local factor (£39.00) and fitted it along with a new pump timing belt last night. I put the flywheel on it's mark which in turn, put the o/s cam in line with the marks some kind soul had already so that's all fine (in theory) and the engine's at TDC.

The pump, I removed the packer and put the pump as near a dammit on the mark then nipped that bolt up. Fitted the belt and the new tensioner, tensioned it up and then loosened off the bolt in the front of the housing again. Turned the engine over by hand and the marks line up.

Cranked it for what felt like a week and a half and nothing. I then cracked the injectors and each and every one is getting fuel so that's fine. What I did note, the n/s cam has a notch that, when the engine is TDC, said notch doesn't seem to line up with anything as far as I can see.

So... it's perhaps possible the n/s/ cam timing has been changed previously and thus, the timing marks maybe count for nothing? I've been told to loosen the n/s cam pulley bolt and turn the timing back (anti-clockwise) until it starts but that conflicts the advice here?

So at the moment, I'm stuck... and to be fair, probably in above my head too as diesel timing really isn't my strong point. So any advice would be appreciated or failing that, can anybody recommend a specialist / independent near to Dunfermline that can sort this one out for me?

Thanks

[RiPsTa33]

Your probably only 1 tooth out on the pump side, get it back to TDC, lock the pump, undo the tensioner and adjuster pulley then move the belt forwards or backwards on the top pulley 1 tooth then try again. If it doesnt work go 2 teeth the other way.

[Turbodave]

Originally Posted by RiPsTa33

Your probably only 1 tooth out on the pump side, get it back to TDC, lock the pump, undo the tensioner and adjuster pulley then move the belt forwards or backwards on the top pulley 1 tooth then try again. If it doesnt work go 2 teeth the other way.

This is one of those situations where it's difficult to describe / understand using the medium of written text... but when you say move the belt backwards / forwards one tooth do you mean:

A) Get it all TDC, lock the pump on its mark and then keeping the belt tight on the diesel pump, physically lift the belt clear clear of the cam pulley and move it back / forwards a tooth and then refit the lower tensioner, unlock the pump and turn it forward / backwards until the belt is taught over the lower tensioner and the refit the upper? Ie so the pump will have moved off it's mark a tooth?

or...

B) Get it all TDC, lock the pump on its mark and then loosen the n/s cam pulley bolt and turn it forward / backward one tooth and retighten the bolt?

I'm guessing it's option A as I'm still sat here wondering why I'd need to change the cam > cam pulley position as it hasn't been moved at all since the car was running perfectly. Somebody else mentioned playing around with the cam pulley position but I don't understand why I'd need to? Surely it's just a case of getting the pump in the correct position in relation to the cam given the pump is the only thing that's moved out of sync?

Sorry if that seems obvious but just trying to be clear in my mind.

Cheers