S40 V40 Cars: - My Volvo is driving me mad

olamike · Aug 11th, 2015, 15:38

Hello everyone,

hoping someone will be able to help (gatos help) before my vehicle drives me mad -it seems when i fix something another problem pops up.

just recently it tend to loose power when i am driving, i sometime have to drop to 2nd gear before the turbo will kick in and the drive is quite labored. when i stop at a light it is quite sluggish pulling off and i really dont know what to do. I have checked the hoses and cant seem to find any leak.

also dont understand why but my drive belt start to screech when i switch on the ac

i have an s40 1.9d 2004

Dancake · Aug 11th, 2015, 16:02

Most likely causes of loss of power are damaged intake/turbo hoses, a leaking intercooler, a faulty N75 valve or a failing MAF sensor amongst other things. The belt screeching would indicate to me that your AC clutch pulley is either seized or in the process of seizing.

skyship007 · Aug 11th, 2015, 16:10

Has this diesel just been serviced correctly, including a new fuel filter (With the 2 O rings), air filter, EGR & intake clean, PLUS spraying the MAF sensor with alcohol cleaner (A real MAF spray like wot CRC do on Fleabay for a tenner, or Halfrauds flog) ???

Once that has been done, then it's get the codes read time or you will go round in circles changing everything.

When was the main cam belt service done ??,

Has the Aux belt and tensioner been changed ??

Leave the AC off until you figure out why the belt is slipping, assuming the AC pulley has not failed which is a lot less common than a duff belt, tensioner or alternator pulley.
If the Aux belt fails at high power it can wipe out the cam belt, which is game over for the top end.

Wild guess, but the power loss sounds like a dirty MAF sensor or blocked EGR. There is a good guide to cleaning the EGR in this forum (New intake O ring and metal EGR gasket required). If the intake is clean, the EGR will probably be OK.

bobthecabbage · Aug 11th, 2015, 20:40

If you have a smart phone you could try one of these iobd2 bluetooth code readers.

http://iobd2.co.uk/

More expensive than the throw away ones on ebay but you only need to buy it once and you can keep using it on any fairly recent cars (2003/4 for diesels, 2001 for petrols).

I don't have one as I bought an Autel AL419 which may or may not be genuine (paid for a genuine one, no one can tell me if actually is or not).

A code reader is a must if you are going to start tinkering and most garages charge a fair sum just for a code read so it pays for itself after one or two uses.

My V40 has a couple of lumps in the rev range at about 1900rpm and somewhere higher up. Don't know what that is but a serious power loss problem (and black smoking) was fixed by a new MAF (genuine renault one from eurocarparts).
I got a transient code for the maf and then a permanent one.
I also visually checked the EGR which seemed to be clear.
Also the N75 can be seen to be working by watching the actuator on the turbo when someone starts the car and then revs it (it goes up and down).

In order for the N75 to work, all the vacuum hoses need to be intact and not kinked or collapsed (which some of mine were).

olamike · Aug 11th, 2015, 23:10

yes the vehicle has been serviced did the service in February with genuine Volvo part. the egr is clean and i cleaned it again last weekend and sprayed the maf sensor using halford cleaner. I changed N75 valve last year, it is not showing an error code or the code reader i am using could be pants.

gatos · Aug 12th, 2015, 11:27

Try unplugging the MAF and try driving the car. If not MAF, it could also be the FPR or the fuel pressure sensor

V40DSchariot · Aug 12th, 2015, 22:10

It could also be the air shut off solenoid. Not a very common problem, but it happened to me.

olamike · Aug 13th, 2015, 20:29

i unplugged the maf and the car is alot better. so it looks like the maf sensor is the guilty party. how long can i go without the sensor plugged in

gatos · Aug 13th, 2015, 20:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by olamike

i unplugged the maf and the car is alot better. so it looks like the maf sensor is the guilty party. how long can i go without the sensor plugged in

Forever. However mpg and power will be lower. Try cleaning your MAF with electrical contact cleaner spray and see if it makes a difference

coffeejunky · Aug 13th, 2015, 20:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatos

Forever. However mpg and power will be lower. Try cleaning your MAF with electrical contact cleaner spray and see if it makes a difference

The sort you need (contains no oils and completely evaporates) is available from Halfords and is sold in a can with a green cap for £3.99.

Well worth a try before buying a new MAF!

Aug 11th, 2015, 15:38	#1
olamike Junior Member Last Online: Oct 30th, 2015 11:51 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: stoke	My Volvo is driving me mad Hello everyone, hoping someone will be able to help (gatos help) before my vehicle drives me mad -it seems when i fix something another problem pops up. just recently it tend to loose power when i am driving, i sometime have to drop to 2nd gear before the turbo will kick in and the drive is quite labored. when i stop at a light it is quite sluggish pulling off and i really dont know what to do. I have checked the hoses and cant seem to find any leak. also dont understand why but my drive belt start to screech when i switch on the ac i have an s40 1.9d 2004

Aug 11th, 2015, 16:02	#2
Dancake Premier Member Last Online: Today 08:50 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Belfast	Most likely causes of loss of power are damaged intake/turbo hoses, a leaking intercooler, a faulty N75 valve or a failing MAF sensor amongst other things. The belt screeching would indicate to me that your AC clutch pulley is either seized or in the process of seizing. __________________ 1996 850 T5 - Sold 2003 S40 1.9d - Sold 2004 S60 D5

Aug 11th, 2015, 16:10	#3
skyship007 Premier Member Last Online: May 2nd, 2018 08:14 Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: DownSouth	Has this diesel just been serviced correctly, including a new fuel filter (With the 2 O rings), air filter, EGR & intake clean, PLUS spraying the MAF sensor with alcohol cleaner (A real MAF spray like wot CRC do on Fleabay for a tenner, or Halfrauds flog) ??? Once that has been done, then it's get the codes read time or you will go round in circles changing everything. When was the main cam belt service done ??, Has the Aux belt and tensioner been changed ?? Leave the AC off until you figure out why the belt is slipping, assuming the AC pulley has not failed which is a lot less common than a duff belt, tensioner or alternator pulley. If the Aux belt fails at high power it can wipe out the cam belt, which is game over for the top end. Wild guess, but the power loss sounds like a dirty MAF sensor or blocked EGR. There is a good guide to cleaning the EGR in this forum (New intake O ring and metal EGR gasket required). If the intake is clean, the EGR will probably be OK. __________________ 2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) Last edited by skyship007; Aug 11th, 2015 at 16:17.

Aug 11th, 2015, 20:40	#4
bobthecabbage Premier Member Last Online: Aug 12th, 2020 21:26 Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Plymouth	If you have a smart phone you could try one of these iobd2 bluetooth code readers. http://iobd2.co.uk/ More expensive than the throw away ones on ebay but you only need to buy it once and you can keep using it on any fairly recent cars (2003/4 for diesels, 2001 for petrols). I don't have one as I bought an Autel AL419 which may or may not be genuine (paid for a genuine one, no one can tell me if actually is or not). A code reader is a must if you are going to start tinkering and most garages charge a fair sum just for a code read so it pays for itself after one or two uses. My V40 has a couple of lumps in the rev range at about 1900rpm and somewhere higher up. Don't know what that is but a serious power loss problem (and black smoking) was fixed by a new MAF (genuine renault one from eurocarparts). I got a transient code for the maf and then a permanent one. I also visually checked the EGR which seemed to be clear. Also the N75 can be seen to be working by watching the actuator on the turbo when someone starts the car and then revs it (it goes up and down). In order for the N75 to work, all the vacuum hoses need to be intact and not kinked or collapsed (which some of mine were). __________________ '04 V40 1.9D

Aug 12th, 2015, 11:27	#6
gatos Premier Member Last Online: Nov 15th, 2022 21:34 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: London / Essex	Try unplugging the MAF and try driving the car. If not MAF, it could also be the FPR or the fuel pressure sensor __________________ Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba

Aug 11th, 2015, 23:10	#5
olamike Junior Member Last Online: Oct 30th, 2015 11:51 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: stoke	yes the vehicle has been serviced did the service in February with genuine Volvo part. the egr is clean and i cleaned it again last weekend and sprayed the maf sensor using halford cleaner. I changed N75 valve last year, it is not showing an error code or the code reader i am using could be pants.

Aug 12th, 2015, 22:10	#7
V40DSchariot Master Member Last Online: Apr 3rd, 2022 15:09 Join Date: May 2013 Location: Derbys	It could also be the air shut off solenoid. Not a very common problem, but it happened to me. __________________ 2016 V60 SE Lux Nav 2001 V40 T4 S - All The Fun of The Fair The big print giveth and the small print taketh away

Aug 13th, 2015, 20:29	#8
olamike Junior Member Last Online: Oct 30th, 2015 11:51 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: stoke	i unplugged the maf and the car is alot better. so it looks like the maf sensor is the guilty party. how long can i go without the sensor plugged in

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