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how to open a underside fuse box on engine compartment?

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Old Mar 9th, 2011, 21:30   #11
sand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by altajeli View Post
I dont think the issue is getting the cover off, its removing the fuse/relay board underneath the cover which is held down by the torx bolts.
Even after removing torx bolts and sliding up the board via 2 clips, it's still holding on stuck. Don't see any bolts or clips to be removed. Refered to Haynes manual, no any information about 60 amp fuse or how to open it.
Lost...
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Sand
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Old Mar 10th, 2011, 12:09   #12
altajeli
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does anyone have any ideas with this? as I need to check my wiring under the fuse board.
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Old Mar 10th, 2011, 20:47   #13
sand
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Hi Altajeli, you've got to disconnect the battery on the boot first, then move on to your fusebox on the engine compartment under bonnet using Torx 15 screwdriver unscrew the 4 black torx bolts. You have to remove the positive red cable bolt beside the fusebox as well using 13mm deep socket as the fuse board is tied on with the bolt for support. After you've undone the bolt, lift out the red positive cable following with earth terminal and finally you'll see the fuse board support on bottom as slowly lift it up sliding past the two clips opposite and there you have gained access to underside facia of fusebox.
The fuse looks like
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
You'll need 5/16 spanner to undo fuse mounting bolts underside fuse board.
Thats about it i guess. Took a lot of guess to finish this DIY pheww...
Hope this helps out if you want to diagnose your fuse box
Regards,
Sand

Last edited by sand; Mar 10th, 2011 at 20:53.
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Old Mar 10th, 2011, 21:30   #14
altajeli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sand View Post
Hi Altajeli, you've got to disconnect the battery on the boot first, then move on to your fusebox on the engine compartment under bonnet using Torx 15 screwdriver unscrew the 4 black torx bolts. You have to remove the positive red cable bolt beside the fusebox as well using 13mm deep socket as the fuse board is tied on with the bolt for support. After you've undone the bolt, lift out the red positive cable following with earth terminal and finally you'll see the fuse board support on bottom as slowly lift it up sliding past the two clips opposite and there you have gained access to underside facia of fusebox.
The fuse looks like
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
You'll need 5/16 spanner to undo fuse mounting bolts underside fuse board.
Thats about it i guess. Took a lot of guess to finish this DIY pheww...
Hope this helps out if you want to diagnose your fuse box
Regards,
Sand
great stuff, thanks. I will have a go next week when im off! did you have any issues re-connecting the battery?
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Old Mar 10th, 2011, 22:11   #15
Jim314
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altajeli,

Why do you need to check the wiring under the board? What makes you think there is a fault there?

I must confess that I am surprised to hear that there is a 60 A link fuse there, but the hidden location of such a fuse is to me a tip-off that this fuse is not likely to be blown. I am guessing that it is in series with accessible a parallel set of fuses of lower amperage limit each of which would blow first. The one case where such a fuse would blow it seems to me would be if a number of circuits would simultaneously be near but slightly below their current limits and so the total amperage would exceed what the battery/alternator was designed to pass.

So why do you suspect a problem with at this level?

Jim
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Old Mar 12th, 2011, 18:49   #16
altajeli
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[QUOTE=Jim314;860217]altajeli,

Why do you need to check the wiring under the board? What makes you think there is a fault there?

I must confess that I am surprised to hear that there is a 60 A link fuse there, but the hidden location of such a fuse is to me a tip-off that this fuse is not likely to be blown. I am guessing that it is in series with accessible a parallel set of fuses of lower amperage limit each of which would blow first. The one case where such a fuse would blow it seems to me would be if a number of circuits would simultaneously be near but slightly below their current limits and so the total amperage would exceed what the battery/alternator was designed to pass.

So why do you suspect a problem with at this level?



Jim, http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=109444

The above explains my original prob. In brief I had an intermittent cutting out prob. In the end Volvo had it for 2.5 weeks and diagnosed that there were some poor electrical contacts UNDER the fuse board which they repaired/replaced, also some bad contacts with the elec plug that clips into the top of the fuse board - I knew about this and had replaced most of them myself, but I could never get the fuse board up to look myself. May have saved myself nearly £578! (although this included a new key)

The cutting out continued after this but no way as often, it went back in and they replaced the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel pump. that was 53 days ago, although it has cut out once and nearly stalled once since then so the prob is still there somewhere!
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Old Jun 6th, 2011, 22:17   #17
jpvolvo
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Default 60 Amp Fuses - where are you?

I’ve recently experienced trouble locating the 60A fuses but after removing the 4 Torx screws, removing the nut from the threaded live stud/terminal next to the fuse box (disconnect battery first) and finally pulling up the rubber grommet situated on the boundary of the fuse box – next to the earthing straps on the bodywork - the thing finally came out. Sure enough the elusive 60A fuse revealed themselves – I was beginning to think I was looking at a wiring diagram for another car.

Goes to show – when all else fails read the instructions!
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 17:18   #18
Jim314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpvolvo View Post
I’ve recently experienced trouble locating the 60A fuses but after removing the 4 Torx screws, removing the nut from the threaded live stud/terminal next to the fuse box (disconnect battery first) and finally pulling up the rubber grommet situated on the boundary of the fuse box – next to the earthing straps on the bodywork - the thing finally came out. Sure enough the elusive 60A fuse revealed themselves – I was beginning to think I was looking at a wiring diagram for another car.

Goes to show – when all else fails read the instructions!
What was the state of these 60A fuses, intact or blown?

Are there other smaller fuses in series with these 60A fuses? That is, is each 60A fuse protecting from simultaneous high loads on a set of circuits with smaller fuses?
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2007 XC90 FWD 3.2 petrol 6-spd auto

Last edited by Jim314; Jun 7th, 2011 at 17:23.
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Old Jun 7th, 2011, 20:37   #19
jpvolvo
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60A Fuses looked like the day they left the factory, gleaming and in perfect working order. I'm no auto electrician but as far as I can tell from the wiring diagrams the larger fuses protect either a single high current circuit or several slightly smaller current circuits - but don't take my word for it you can download the wiring diagrams from Matthews Vovo Site.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo-wiring-diagrams/
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Old Aug 23rd, 2011, 07:47   #20
ALANJACKSON2011
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Hello, did you ever sort out the cooling fan problem? I have a 2001 V70 turbo and the radiator fan won'r run. Engine gets VERY hot and I can't find the fuse or relay.
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