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What's the P80 850 V70 S70 C70 Killers & Std. Faults

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Old Mar 29th, 2017, 10:43   #41
CNGBiFuel
Classic P80 1999 BiFuel
 

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850 / V70 More Tailgate Rattles - and you thought it was only the trim? Sorry, there's more to do

You want part number 9485477 and you'll likely need new gas struts too. All hold the tailgate tight. The wiper motor, the speaker trim panels and the tailgate wiring often rattles as well. Best you get SHMBO to drive whilst you sit as 'tail-gunner' in the rear and you'll see what I mean.

The lock brace (9485477) has been redesigned, although later V70 might have this, 850s don't.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic...te-rattle-fix/

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthr...lgate-rattling)

Used to drive me mad. You will silence the thing... eventually. Have fun.
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Old Mar 30th, 2017, 21:38   #42
Jod T5
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Default 850 t5

Evening,

I do not get back to this site very often - Mainly to crib @Bob themes and css for my own site.

On the subject of Police spec pads - These are without doubt the best mod (moneywise) I have did on my T5. Stopping wise and fade wise (as indicated by Andrew earlier) these far outstrip standard Volvo pads, DS2500 (aside from the fact these are outlawed on later models) and Red/Green/Yellow and Blue stuff EBC pads.

A couple of other areas that I did not see noted are:

Erect Headlamp Wipers - Leading to...them not working and intermittent operation of windscreen wipers

Complete Failure of Rear Wiper - Due to corrosion in the nylon collar and siezure of the spindle.

Regards


Jod
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Old Mar 13th, 2018, 16:09   #43
CNGBiFuel
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Default iCarSoft i906 The best Code reader for these cars?

You'll need a ODB scanner Top dog unless you're going all the way to VIDA/VADIS etc etc is an iCarSoft i906. Does all the proprietary codes distinct to Volvos with correct allocation. Will read as a VIDA/VADIS etc etc.

Generic all-comer readers don't do this, but they are 40. Found cheapest on eBay, sadly, an iCarSoft i906 is double that.

But mine has paid for itself by being right!
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Old Apr 20th, 2018, 08:38   #44
CNGBiFuel
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In conclusion:
Whilst there's bound ot be a few more as I think of them, you can conclude in the hands of a vaguely capable DIY mechanic with a complete set of tools these P80 cars are very capable of galactic miles. Largely because they don't rot and are at the core so well engineered. This generation of Volvo, and the last of the RWD, are like Mercs used to be. Yet, without the crazy parts prices. Look around you, cars don't last 20-25 years anymore, and those used as daily-drivers tend to be limited to a few marques. Your Volvo is one of them.

Parts are plentiful and dirt-cheap. Up there with Beetles, Minis and Morris Minors, these P80 cars are amongst the very cheapest for parts. I recently put a new radiator in for 70. Come on... 70! Any other car would be three times that.


If you are that vaguely capable DIY mechanic you'll do fine. With an eye on this list you'll not need to buy another car for the next 200,000 miles. Can you flush fluids? Good.

However they do suffer quite a few niggly faults that if you're paying 2-3 hours labour for each, and main dealer parts prices soon make these cars as expensive to run as any other. Perhaps more so. One of these cars will not be for you. However there's no more depreciation to suffer, cheap parts, and no rust. If you're a low mileage user fuel won't be a consideration, and if you're not, consider LPG or CNG. People will moan about fuel costs, yet depreciation and servicing are the biggest expense for most on a car. These I cover for under 2-300 a year doing 40,000+ miles. Yours will be lower. You can't run a car for much less.

If you can follow this mantra, in 2018 as I write this, you'll pick one up for less than a 1000, your motoring needs will be covered. This guy, RobertDIY, is your man:

https://www.youtube.com/user/RSpi007
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Old Apr 27th, 2018, 03:22   #45
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In conclusion, to the conclusion

Somehow I knew there would be more.

FAQ for factory Bifuel Volvos and after-market conversions running LPG / CNG.
Aimed broadly at those of us with the Necam Bifuel cars. I'm in the midst of writing this, but it's already got a fair bit of meat in there....

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=280332
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Old Jun 6th, 2018, 00:43   #46
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Could I post-conclude with a really bad killer for the 2.5TDI's ?

Leave the crankshaft pulley bolt loose, or at-least let an incompetent garage change the timing belt/s without realising that;
a) The bolt must be renewed each time (it's a stretch bolt)
b) The torque is 160Nm + 180degrees, "near enough" is not good enough
c) There's no Loctite on these; if you need Loctite, you're not doing it up correctly!
d) The crankshaft end-face and associated TV-damper face must be a good machined finish
e) Your favourite local garage has probably lost the special washer that goes into the clamped joint, but this, too, must be replaced each time the TV-damper comes off for the timing belt change. It's diamond-faced, but it doesn't cost a fortune (about 6) and will save your engine

If the crankshaft bolting to the TV-damper is not good, you will have endless issues of vibrations in the pump drivebelts and tensioner pulleys (with short lifetime on each) but also the engine will eventually self-destruct when the TV-damper finally comes loose. The crank timing gear only has a sintered woodrough key cast into it, and this will shear, allowing valves to meet pistons, requiring (usually) a spare cylinder head to be fitted.
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Old Mar 7th, 2019, 15:05   #47
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Ok, so there is not much mention of rust in this section of 850 killers, and for good reason. They don't tend to rust. Apart from the dodgy Volvo factory process regarding the front wings. Which most 850's have succumbed to. Although these can be changed quite easily, so not a killer.

But hello a minute. Now these cars are over 20 years old there is a hidden killer. Lurking in most 850's and not visible until it's possibly too late. This problem is really only coming to light now, but I believe this may be the 850's only rust killer!!

So where is this hidden killer, waiting to destroy your pride and joy. Well, it is hiding behind the plastic inner rear wheel arch liners, on both sides of the car. In bad cases you will see rust coming through just behind the rear door lower down, around the bottom wheel arch lip. Where the clear plastic covering is protecting this small piece of paint work.

The real problem though is hiding behind the inner plastic mud liners. You will have to remove this liner which involves drilling out the rivets to the rear bumper, but it has to be done, and I don't mean on cars that are showing rust. I mean on every 850 out there.

The rust eats away at the area which is on the curve inside the wheel arch. Even if you see no rust on the outside of the car, most 850's are suffering silently, and when you finally tackle it, it can be horrendous. Unless you are a dab hand with a welder this will kill the car, as it will be an MOT fail because it is within 12 inches of the rear seat belt mounting.

I have welded two cars up now, but every one I have come across has had bad rust under this lining that I have had to grind back and treat so that it has a chance of survival. When it gets really bad the mounting for the rear seat back will fall through. I had this happen after tackling what I thought was a small hole. I ended up having to take out the rear seat, grind off the seat back mounting, weld up the what ended up as a massive hole and then having to reconstruct the seat mounting, which wasn't easy, as the position has to be spot on for the rear seat to fix and work properly
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Old Mar 7th, 2019, 15:08   #48
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Old May 17th, 2019, 12:52   #49
CNGBiFuel
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I'll add another...

Fit your own LPG / CNG conversion:

Broadly because to get to the galactic miles these cars do, takes a heap of fuel, petrol versions could do with a gas conversion. But with BIG caveats, by their very nature, many conversions get bodged in, thus LPG gets a bad rap. Volvo's own factory-fit LPG/CNG cars need an eye on them. The poor install issue is not LPG's fault, but listen to the naysayers, and you'd think so.

Yet done right, and I DO mean done right, gassing a car works. For the savings involved, it's worth grasping, how to apply it, and why. A poor install will be a nightmare. If you're capable of keeping one of these cars on the road, you're capable of fitting a gas kit - and doing it well. If you're careful it'll cost you 3-400 (550 at most) in parts, and pay-back in months. Depending on your miles, it probably isn't as viable to have a pro fit for you, pay-back will be 3-4 times longer.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=294439&page=3
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=290215
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Old May 29th, 2019, 17:25   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNGBiFuel View Post
I'll add another...

Fit your own LPG / CNG conversion:

Broadly because to get to the galactic miles these cars do, takes a heap of fuel, petrol versions could do with a gas conversion. But with BIG caveats, by their very nature, many conversions get bodged in, thus LPG gets a bad rap. Volvo's own factory-fit LPG/CNG cars need an eye on them. The poor install issue is not LPG's fault, but listen to the naysayers, and you'd think so.

Yet done right, and I DO mean done right, gassing a car works. For the savings involved, it's worth grasping, how to apply it, and why. A poor install will be a nightmare. If you're capable of keeping one of these cars on the road, you're capable of fitting a gas kit - and doing it well. If you're careful it'll cost you 3-400 (550 at most) in parts, and pay-back in months. Depending on your miles, it probably isn't as viable to have a pro fit for you, pay-back will be 3-4 times longer.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=294439&page=3
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=290215
Perhaps; though personally I think LPG is a big white elephant - more due to personal experience on other marques as opposed to Volvos. It must have good valve lubrication for starters, which for sure the likes of the early factory fitted Ford system didn't - DIRE for valve seat regression!!
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