TF-80SC Fluid Change Done

[PeteB1]

I got around to doing a sump dump and fill on my 6 speed TF-80SC auto box today. This is for the D5, some of the components that have to be removed to get to the various plugs may be different on other engine variants.

Tools Required:

4 litres of JWS3309 fluid of your choice - I went with the Volvo fluid as it was cheaper than either Mobil 3309 or Toyota T-IV.
Torx 40 driver (for level check plug as part of the integral level check/drain plug).
Torx 55 driver (for filler plug).
17mm hex sump plug removal tool.
Long flexi funnel.
Measuring jugs (to check amount removed and measure same amount for addition).

As it was the first time and I couldn't find much info on the 6 speed (there is loads for the 5 speed) it took a while as I didn't want to get into a problem point of no return so this was my procedure:

First, remove the undertray and check the level plug loosens OK but don't remove at this stage. Then get the car as level as possible.

Then, remove the air filter housing so the filler is accessible and loosen the filler plug with the relevant Torx driver. It was quite tight but came undone. ONLY remove the Torx 55 plug, don't touch any other bolt head.

Having checked all this, then put the drain bowl underneath, removed the level check plug fully and let the little bit of fluid drain out into the bowl. Once this stops, then undo the drain plug with the hex tool and let the main bulk of the fluid drain out. I left this about an hour to let as much drain down as possible.

Clean the drain plug and level plug, re-install and tighten them both.

Using one of the measuring jugs, measure the amount of fluid that was drained. I was surprised to find that only 2.5 litres had drained from the sump, a little less than the 3 litres or so that those with 5 speed versions often say drains from the sump.

Clean around the filler plug and remove it. Install the long flexi funnel. The filler tube is angled so the funnel cannot be pushed in too far.

Using another clean measuring jug, carefully measure out and fill with the same quantity of fluid through the funnel. Once done, re-install and tighten the filler plug.

Re-assemble the air filter etc, then start the engine and check everything is OK.

As my car is on 58k miles, I intend now to run the car for about 500 miles and repeat the process. As I only got 2.4 litres out, I may even do a third change after another 500 miles or so, then at least a quantity of fluid equivalent to the total box volume has been changed. After the third change, I will do a proper level check even though careful measurement has been used in checking fluid removed and matching the amount added as I have no record of the level being checked prior to the change.

The 6 speed is claimed by Volvo (but not necessarily other manufacturers who use it) as "fill for life".

I attach a photo of what came out next to what went in.

ATF Comp.jpg

Now, with my limited but not all that good experience of auto boxes in the past, I wouldn't fancy leaving that in and expecting to get several 100k miles without a problem. That fluid smelt and looked not dissimilar to what I remember removing from Borg Warner 35 boxes I had in a couple of cars in the 1980's. In both cases, these boxes were giving trouble around the 100k mile mark. In one case, terminal failure soon followed, in the other I sold the car before it got that far.

So, I leave others to decide on the validity of "fill for life" when a large annual mileage is being done.

[SourDiesel]

Good write up... most people only seem to have tackled the 5-speed box. I need to do mine at some point.

Did you replace the washer on the level/drain taps? I assume you used Volvo ATF? Have you seen an improvement in how the box shifts?

[PeteB1]

Originally Posted by SourDiesel

Good write up... most people only seem to have tackled the 5-speed box. I need to do mine at some point.

Yes, there is virtually no information regarding fluid changing on the 6 speed in any of the Volvo forums. Most of what I could find is on the US Ford Fusion forum so I realised as far as the auto Volvos go, I was on my own. That's partly why I bottled out to a simply repeat sump dump/fill rather than trying the more involved 'Gibbons' technique in case anything went wrong.

Originally Posted by SourDiesel

Did you replace the washer on the level/drain taps?

Not at this stage as I will be repeating the process again after a week and then again after a further week, 3 times in all, draining 2.5 litres each time. I shall put new ones in after the 3rd and final change for this round. The main drain plug uses a metal washer which is the same Part No as the engine oil sump drain plug washer. The inner smaller level check plug and filler plug both have rubber 'O' rings so it may not be necessary to replace those?

The exact amount I got out was about 2.4 litres but I miscounted and put 2.9 litres back in. So with that, with the car on the drive, I ran the engine and put the gear change thorugh 5 secs in P, R, N & D each then repeated the process in reverse and repeated the whole combination another 2 times. I then drained out 350ml, leaving 150ml more in than came out. Hopefully, the second time round, I'll get 2.55 litres out. After the 3rd dump/fill, I'll do the proper level check procedure for the 6 speed box. This process is exactly the same as is often used on manual boxes rather than the dipstick more usually used for auto boxes.

Originally Posted by SourDiesel

I assume you used Volvo ATF? Have you seen an improvement in how the box shifts?

Yes, I used Volvo ATF. With the VOC discount, it is cheaper than either base Mobil JWS3309 (which is what they all are) or Toyota T-IV. There is also a GM version, strangely in the GM case, the Part No for the 6 speed fluid is different to the 5 speed fluid. I don't know why as these autoboxes are made by Aisin AW, a subsidiary company in which Toyota have a majority shareholding and Toyota recommend the same fluid for both 'their' 5 and 6 speed autoboxes. There are other JWS3309 compatible fluids which are cheaper still and others in this and other forums have reported using these without any issues so far. Again, I'm not sure whether these are mainly 5 speed versions though.

Regarding shift, then undoubtedly smoother, especially under load. Even with this first stage fluid change, there is a noticeable improvement. It wasn't bad before, it's just that now, I'm not even aware of some of the changes other than by the engine rev indications and switching to geartronic manual mode to see what gear it's in. It also looks from early indication that fuel consumption is improved slightly. Not too surprising as that old dark worn stuff was higher viscosity than the new clean stuff that went in.

HTH

[MartinK]

Pete - thanks for posting this, it's brilliant information. My Gen3 has just turned 50k miles (and just over 3 years old, and hence just out of warranty). I have noticed the gear changes - especially when cold - are not quite as good as they used to be - so I am also planning on a oil change (and will follow your guide).

I've been shopping around for the oil. For info of others:

Volvo's Own Oil

1 Litre Part # is 1161540
4 Litre Part # is 1161640

The RRP on the 4 Litre is around £60.52 inc VAT from your local Dealer. I usually ask my dealer for a wee customer discount, and they usually knock-off 10% for me...

Mobil JWS 3309

Available from Opie Oils for £56.94 for 5 litres, or £11.99 litre.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69402-mo...ion-fluid.aspx
Ebay is about the same price.

It appears (from Pete's write-up) we'll need to buy 8 litres to manage the 3 cycles, with a bit left over.

This may also be useful:

[PeteB1]

Originally Posted by MartinK

Pete - thanks for posting this, it's brilliant information. My Gen3 has just turned 50k miles (and just over 3 years old, and hence just out of warranty). I have noticed the gear changes - especially when cold - are not quite as good as they used to be - so I am also planning on a oil change (and will follow your guide).

I've been shopping around for the oil. For info of others:

Volvo's Own Oil

1 Litre Part # is 1161540
4 Litre Part # is 1161640

The RRP on the 4 Litre is around £60.52 inc VAT from your local Dealer. I usually ask my dealer for a wee customer discount, and they usually knock-off 10% for me...

I paid £41.something for a 4l container of the Volvo badged 3309 (bought 3) as was planning the full 'Gibbons' style flush at the time but bottled out as I could only find details for doing it on the older 5 speed. Although the 6 is very similar in cooling circuit design to the older 5, I wasn't certain as to any other issues that may occur as a result of doing it this way. You'll get a discount quoting this site, especially if you're a paid up member with a membership number.

Originally Posted by MartinK

Mobil JWS 3309

Available from Opie Oils for £56.94 for 5 litres, or £11.99 litre.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69402-mo...ion-fluid.aspx
Ebay is about the same price.

It appears (from Pete's write-up) we'll need to buy 8 litres to manage the 3 cycles, with a bit left over.

This may also be useful:

The subject of which AT fluid one is quite free to choose to use is a big debate in another thread in this sub forum at the moment. However, without me having seen proper Laboratory test results for long term tests on the 6 speed TF-80SC in vehicles or on a test bed with any of the other claimed JWS3309 Spec but not officially assessed AT fluids, I'm more than happy to allow others to be the real time on the road testing Laboratory for them. When they subsequently post real several 10's of k miles test results showing that their post 2002 AW 5 or TF 6 speed gearboxes ran perfectly satisfactorily without any issues of any kind over the time, then I'll consider the testing complete and may subsequently choose one of the alternative cheaper 'compatible' fluids for a future ATF change.

Until that point, I go with the official Volvo table posted above.

[Jim314]

Originally Posted by PeteB1

The exact amount I got out was about 2.4 litres but I miscounted and put 2.9 litres back in. So with that, with the car on the drive, I ran the engine and put the gear change thorugh 5 secs in P, R, N & D each then repeated the process in reverse and repeated the whole combination another 2 times. I then drained out 350ml, leaving 150ml more in than came out. Hopefully, the second time round, I'll get 2.55 litres out. After the 3rd dump/fill, I'll do the proper level check procedure for the 6 speed box. This process is exactly the same as is often used on manual boxes rather than the dipstick more usually used for auto boxes.

The difference in volume of 150 mL could be due to expansion from heating. You drained it when it was at a lower temperature then the final setting of the level was when it was hot and the fluid had increased in volume.

Possibly the way the concentric fill and level setting plugs are to be used is to fill through the fill port until ATF begins to run out. Then the fill plug would be screwed in without the inner plug. Start the engine, repeatedly cycle the gear shift, and let the ATF heat up. The level of the ATF would presumably rise until ATF starts to flow out of the level setting port. When the ATF is hot the ATF would cease to flow out and the level plug would be inserted and tightened.

[dave_s13]

This is where I got my 10litres from

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mobil-ATF-...-/130669373108

Just as an alternative.

[PeteB1]

Originally Posted by Jim314

The difference in volume of 150 mL could be due to expansion from heating. You drained it when it was at a lower temperature then the final setting of the level was when it was hot and the fluid had increased in volume.

Quite probably correct. Also, the length of time standing/draining may result in a slightly different amount out each time. I'll see what I get out on the third round of drain/fill due any time as soon as the current UK weather allows. I need it to be dry long enough to be able to drain, fill and get everything back together before the next shower.

Originally Posted by Jim314

Possibly the way the concentric fill and level setting plugs are to be used is to fill through the fill port until ATF begins to run out. Then the fill plug would be screwed in without the inner plug. Start the engine, repeatedly cycle the gear shift, and let the ATF heat up. The level of the ATF would presumably rise until ATF starts to flow out of the level setting port. When the ATF is hot the ATF would cease to flow out and the level plug would be inserted and tightened.

Yes, I think that's how it's done. The GM (Saab & Vauxhall Vectra) sites describe a very similar way of setting it to this in the cars using the TF-80SC. Basically fill until the fluid just starts to drip. Insert the level plug and add a further 0.5 litre, run and warm up to the required temperature range then cycle through the gear shift at least twice and remove the level plug until the fluid ceases to flow.

I would be very grateful if anyone with VIDA could just check the exact Volvo procedure as I currently only have the Haynes manual description. Thanks in advance.

[Jim314]

Originally Posted by PeteB1

. . .The GM (Saab & Vauxhall Vectra) sites describe a very similar way of setting it to this in the cars using the TF-80SC. Basically fill until the fluid just starts to drip. Insert the level plug and add a further 0.5 litre, run and warm up to the required temperature range then cycle through the gear shift at least twice and remove the level plug until the fluid ceases to flow.

I would be very grateful if anyone with VIDA could just check the exact Volvo procedure as I currently only have the Haynes manual description. Thanks in advance.

How would you add 0.5 L of ATF through the small level setting oriface?

I'm supposing that when the level is at the bottom of the larger fill oriface, this is slightly more ATF than is needed when at operating temperature, and that thermal expansion would cause the excess to flow out the level setting orface to achieve the correct level.

[PeteB1]

Originally Posted by Jim314

How would you add 0.5 L of ATF through the small level setting oriface?

I'm supposing that when the level is at the bottom of the larger fill oriface, this is slightly more ATF than is needed when at operating temperature, and that thermal expansion would cause the excess to flow out the level setting orface to achieve the correct level.

No, unlike the AW55 5 speed, the TF-80 6 has a proper fill plug (Torx 55 head) as it doesn't have a dipstick. Fill slowly through there until ATF drips from the level check. Or, deliberately add slightly more ATF than drained out, get ATF to the correct temperature range, cycle through the gearchange procedure and remove the level check plug and let the excess drain out.

See attached images showing the fill plug. They're not from my car but AT box top surface is similar once the air filter upper housing has been removed. Don't touch any other bolt heads on top of the AT box!.