TF-80SC Fluid Change Done

[XC70Mark]

Great writeup

I'm replying to say thanks and also to bookmark the thread for future reference!!

Thanks!!

[Georgey dee]

Me too

I used this very recently to do my flush.

I would add - It is very important that the temperature is correct. I does make quite a bit of difference.

Also - When I first pulled the plug at 45 degs a litre of fluid came out! Very over filled!

[mdmuddin]

Hi everyone
Thanks for all the info and in particular thanks to PeteB1 for the write up.
Was hoping to get some help.
I gave my car (2005 XC70 185BHP D5 6-speed Geartronic) to an indi to change the radiator. When I went to collect the car, they told me the following:
Somebody in the garage turned the engine on when the ATF hose was out of the rad and ATF came gushing out all over the floor. The refilled it through filler under the air filter housing.They said they had to fill about 4 litres and they said they used Dexron 3 (as “that’s what they always use for auto trannies”).
Anyway, gearbox seems a bit sluggish since.

Now, the car has 200k (mostly by the first owner) and there’s no evidence of fluid change in the paperwork. No signs of it being used for towing either.

I’ve come to the conclusion that I should probably flush and replace with Mobil 3309. Does that sound wise? I’ve almost got the confidence after reading this thread but wanted to clarify a few things so will appreciate everybody’s help.
I’m considering doing the full Gibbon’s flush too so would appreciate more elaboration on that and confirmation from anyone who’s done it with the TF-80SC.


1: I want to try and get rid of as much of the current oil (a mixture of old oil and Dexron 3). For that, would the Gibbon’s method be the best?

2: Generally, to avoid messing around with the ECU and air-filter box, what do members think of feeding new oil through the return pipe that comes out of the top of the radiator?

3: If one is to try and refill through the return pipe, will it be possible to pour through a funnel or would some sort of pump be required and if so, what type?

4: When I do the initial drain from the sump, is it okay for the car to be totally cold (first thing in the morning) or is there any benefit in it being warm/hot?

5: To do the final levelling, is it true that the ATF temperature (which should be 50-60c) can be read through VIDA and DICE?

6: If one doesn’t have the VIDA/DICE setup, what do you think of the advice on the Mathew’s thread Pete linked? 

“You can leave check plug out and fill until it runs out. Let the engine run for 10-15 minutes as the temp they want it filled to is attained with it running that long. It is not a "hot" fill as is usual, rather it is a warm fill. The temp is reached and stays in that range for a long time with it idling out of gear but never driven.”

7: When doing the final level check, what do you think of the following method?
(Before this, ATF would have already been drained and refilled approximately and this is just for the final levelling)
Make sure the car is on a level surface.
The car should be pretty much cold (not warm or hot).
Remove the Level Check Plug using a Torx 40 driver.
Remove the air filter box and ECU. 
Undo the Filler Plug with a Torx 55 driver.
Place funnel into filler hole.
Reconnect ECU and Air box.
Add oil until the filler hole until it will fit no more.
Start engine and allow to idle.
Look below the car and wait for ATF to start pouring out of the Level check plug.
Once it stops pouring out (and is only dripping), turn off engine.
Replace the Level Check Plug and tighten to specified torque.
END

[mdmuddin]

If this story is true, i guess I should get flushing my transmission asap:

"Here is a story for you....

Customer owns a 06 S60 turbo. Had valvoline instant change place flush her trans fluid with the generic dexronIII/mercon. Two days later her car was towed into my dealership with the trans not pulling/engaging/shifting as designed. Guess what? Flushed it three times with Volvo ATF and it started working better and better."


http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s...81/#post228339

[mdmuddin]

Any advice?

[PeteB1]

Originally Posted by mdmuddin

Any advice?

As you say the wrong oil has been used to top up and an indeterminate amount of oil is in there so a Gibbons flush would seem to be the best bet at this stage. I have never done that on mine but just do sump dumps, measure the amount that has come out, then fill up with the same amount.

Because, as you have found the air filter/ECU has to be removed to get at the filler plug on these. When I was considering a Gibbons style flush, I was thinking of putting a length of flexihose into the filler hole, then reinstalling the air filter over the hose to enable filling to be done before removing again to remove the hose and refitting the filler plug. Make sure the hose end remains in the filler hole.

If you have VIDA/DICE, then the repeat filling/level check procedure is detailed. The same method is also given in the Haynes manual.

To get a roughly correct level to start would be to fill only until the fluid just appears through the level check plug, replace the check plug, add 0.5l of fluid, then perform the level check as described. When I drain mine (same model), around 2.4l come out and I refill with 2.4l + an extra 30ml to account for losses, i.e. that remaining in the draining tub, measuring jugs etc. So, alternatively, you could drain the excess from the car on a level surface, then refill with 2.4-2.5l to get a roughly correct level. Whichever method you choose, don't excessively overfill again which it sounds as if yours has been by the "workshop".

There are some on here who use the cheaper multispec fluids when changing theirs, they would be better to confirm compatibility of these with Dexron 3/Mobil 3309. I only have used proper 3309 on mine rather than a multispec fluid. If the multispecs do cover both types and are suitable for the TF80-SC, then maybe use one of these to flush the old fluid out and get the level reset correctly. If you wish, you could then perform a series of sumpdumps/fills with the proper fluid over a few 100 miles.

[mdmuddin]

Thanks a lot for your reply.

I understand the final level checking is temperature sensitive, but do you think it makes a difference if the engine is cold or warm when doing the initial dump and pump out in the Gibbon's method?

I know the warmer fluid is likely to hold slightly more volume, but in terms of getting more rubbish out of the box, etc., is it better to drain whilst warm/hot?

Draining whilst cold would make things easier (no hot fluids to be careful with, etc.) but would go for the warm/hot drain if there's a considerable benefit.

[PeteB1]

Originally Posted by mdmuddin

Thanks a lot for your reply.

I understand the final level checking is temperature sensitive, but do you think it makes a difference if the engine is cold or warm when doing the initial dump and pump out in the Gibbon's method?

There will be a slight volume change, just let the warm discharged fluid cool before measuring the final volume, the top up with similar volume at room temperature. AFAIAA, it's about 2l per pumping round before topping up.

I know the warmer fluid is likely to hold slightly more volume, but in terms of getting more rubbish out of the box, etc., is it better to drain whilst warm/hot?

Run the car first to pump the fluid around/heat it slightly. This will ensure more debris and wear material is in suspension in the fluid when discharged. This applies equally whether using Gibbons method or just dumping a sump full.

Draining whilst cold would make things easier (no hot fluids to be careful with, etc.) but would go for the warm/hot drain if there's a considerable benefit.

See above, go for a warm dump. The lower viscosity also helps in getting that bit more out.

Hope that helps.

[scvolvo]

I've performed gearbox flushes a few times on the 4,5 and 6sp boxes.

I've flushed my tf80sc twice and would just say, use the sump drop method not the oil cooler pump out method, also allow a good while between sump drops, I usually leave it at least a week to force the oil around the box a good 150 miles.

[mdmuddin]

Thanks both of you for your replies. I'm planning to go for it once I'm confident I've got as much info as I need/can get.

Regarding your recommendation to not go for the Gibbons and stick with the sump-dump, can I ask for the reasons? Are there any particular risk that you foresee or is it the fact that there are no reports (at least that I could find) of someone doing it and successfully?

The main attraction towards the Gibbon's method for my situation is to get the incorrect Dexron 3 stuff out asap and hopefully in one go. If I did the sump-dump a few times over and with some intervals, my main fear is that I will still end up with some sort of diluted ATF which is mixed between old and new as well as correct and incorrect fluid type, not to mention 2 different oils anyway.