Body/Trim: 70: Rust on 1998 V70 Tdi

[Martin Cox]

I'd agree. It's difficult to tell to much from the pictures and my main purpose in including them was to identify the location of the problem area. It's so much clearer than trying to describe it. A cursory poke around when I took the photos suggests that it may not need welding so I think my next move is as you say: clean up and assess.

I'd welcome any further suggestions as to good products to use for treating rust and bad ones best avoided. Things must have changed since I last had a go at treating any rusty bodywork many years ago.

Martin

[Alpine]

Originally Posted by Martin Cox

I'd welcome any further suggestions as to good products to use for treating rust and bad ones best avoided.

Martin

Bilt Hamber or Dinitrol as mentioned above, they are the main ones, you don't need to waste your time looking at others. I prefer Bilt Hamber of the two.

[Martin Cox]

I'm thinking either Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 or Deox Gel and Electrox. If I'm going to do it I may as well do as good a job as possible.

Martin

[XC90Mk1]

Originally Posted by Martin Cox

I'm thinking either Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 or Deox Gel and Electrox. If I'm going to do it I may as well do as good a job as possible.

Martin

I have only used the original but would probably go bilt gambler now due to experience with their products.

[Alpine]

Originally Posted by Martin Cox

I'm thinking either Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 or Deox Gel and Electrox. If I'm going to do it I may as well do as good a job as possible.

Martin

Hydrate 80 is what I use, to "cure" the rust. If its an enclosed section, such as an inner wing or cill I then use their Dynax S50 to give a protective film.

But on such an exposed part of your car you might be better using Hydrate 80 and then paint over with Black Hammerite paint. That is what I have done. Dynax S50 tends to get washed off under the car as it is so exposed.

[eternal optimist]

Originally Posted by Alpine

Hydrate 80 is what I use, to "cure" the rust. If its an enclosed section, such as an inner wing or cill I then use their Dynax S50 to give a protective film.

But on such an exposed part of your car you might be better using Hydrate 80 and then paint over with Black Hammerite paint. That is what I have done. Dynax S50 tends to get washed off under the car as it is so exposed.

Don’t use Hammerite, it’s a shadow of what it used to be.

Another big fan of Bilt Hamber here. Hydrate 80 and Dynax S50 internally; either Electrox or black epoxy primer brushed over the treated rust (assuming no perforation or serious thinning requiring welding, then Dynax S50 on top of the epoxy primer or Electrox. Bilt Hamber do a good epoxy primer.

[Martin Cox]

I do have some unopened tins of Hammerite I bought in 1985...

[Alpine]

Originally Posted by eternal optimist

Don’t use Hammerite, it’s a shadow of what it used to be.
.

I agree Hammerite is not that great, but at least when the rust starts to show through again in 12 months time it is easy to see and you can scrape and retreat so its good for another 12 months. I have found in the past that if you apply a sticky /messy product sometimes the rust can start to come through again below it, without you being aware it is doing so. You'd want to use the Hydrate 80 first though.

[Martin Cox]

So, the Hydrate 80 having arrived and the sun shining nicely, I decided to make a start on the rust. Happily it was little more than surface rust with a little pitting here and there and the underlying steel is sound enough.

Dremel in hand, I ground out as much of the rust as possible, degreased with some isopropyl alcohol and then gave it a good wash followed by a blow dry with the leaf blower followed by an old hairdryer. Two coats of Hydrate 80 as per instructions and that will do for today.

I'll put a couple of coats of Electrox on tomorrow and then think about a top coat later in the week.

I'll look into some Dynax S50 for inside the section.

I bought a box of accessories for the Dremel from Lidl the other day; £12.99 for a ridiculous number of items. Admittedly there was quite a lot of sandpaper in it but that's what I needed. Unfortunately the first couple of little sanding drums didn't last long at all. Then it occured to me to read the instructions. The drums last a hell of a lot longer if you run them at the correct speed! The kit seems good value.

[chelle_belle]

Could we have some after pictures if possible.

Craig