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Parasitic battery drain V50

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Old Oct 19th, 2019, 16:59   #11
lockstock
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Originally Posted by eddieace View Post
Thanks for taking the time to respond lockstock and statusred

Not aware of any blackbox fitted, I think I would of found one as I’ve been inside and everywhere in it.

Fitted a new alternator, still does pretty much the same voltage wise first 2 minutes of running voltage is as expected 14.7 then drops to 13.3 volts at the battery.

Picked up a new multimeter, when i measure the current it starts at 1.2 then drops after 30secs to .66 then .12 for 30 secs then 0.00

Alarm sounder still currently disconnected

Not seeing any eureka moment at the minute where I think I’ve nailed it, the green lights are still on, are other v50s always on with this?
the voltage behaviour with the alternator will likely be what I suspected. Variable voltage for battery recharge. alt probably fine.

The current draw of 1.2 Amps (im assuming) is probably correct. On my old VW the alarm and other ancillary draw when normal was under 200mA. So I suggest you reconnect the alarm system, so the same test and see what happens.

If the current draw stays after car off and is high, then it confirms faulty alarm or alarm battery issue. often the circuit in the siren goes bad so is more than just swapping battery.

If there is no actual paracitic drain, the you are back to a faulty car battery or a short somewhere in the wiring loom.
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Old Oct 19th, 2019, 17:07   #12
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Sat in car and 15 minutes have passed, heard a relay click and now those green lights are off,

Little stumped on the sounder as its different to the you tube fixes 😂

This isnt going smoothly
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Old Oct 21st, 2019, 14:04   #13
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Little update, alarm service message now gone off car still has a dead battery when returning to it overnight, figured I’d give the battery a full charge and maybe try a current draw whilst at work, checked for any codes on the off chance and 2 stored, p0380 glow plug heater circuit A and u0301 software incompatible with ECM/PCM

Erased and restarted car, U0301 returns.

Not happy the alternator voltage drops from 14.5 volts to 13.2 (12.8) when electrics are being used.

Looking more and more likely it may need a dealer visit.
Unless someone has seen this u0301 before.
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Old Oct 21st, 2019, 14:42   #14
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Originally Posted by eddieace View Post
Little update, alarm service message now gone off car still has a dead battery when returning to it overnight, figured I’d give the battery a full charge and maybe try a current draw whilst at work, checked for any codes on the off chance and 2 stored, p0380 glow plug heater circuit A and u0301 software incompatible with ECM/PCM

Erased and restarted car, U0301 returns.

Not happy the alternator voltage drops from 14.5 volts to 13.2 (12.8) when electrics are being used.

Looking more and more likely it may need a dealer visit.
Unless someone has seen this u0301 before.
there is something in the air as yesterday went out to car....... dead battery! mine is a 2012 c30 2l petrol. battery showing 11.9v.. tried recharging... got to 12.2 and won't charge.. charging indicates full. car still wont start... got a variety of worrying warning messages including power steering service.


Anyway, bought a new bosch s5 battery. PITA to install as my clamp was slightly too small. done though.. Car now running sweet. battery at 12.6.

Fyi. with my car running, voltage is 14.6 from alternator. doesn't seem to drop. tried turning on lights, heated seats, aircon etc. sits between 14.5-14.6... It may be that your voltage droping when car is running isn't variable charging it's a failing alternator... I'd try a new battery first though

I suspect yr bad battery and possibly bad alternator is causing the other or at least making worse, the other electrical problems.

FYI, if you can start car, this is a great video on checking basic alternator issues. including ground and positive continuity
https://youtu.be/LGB6ZEjGm7Q


also to check alternator diodes. you use the diode check function on multi meter. positive to positive, negative to the case. the swap, should be zero(1) one way, and really high the other way.





I
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Old Oct 21st, 2019, 16:00   #15
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Well battery is 7 months old

Alternator is new.

Watched chris fix video and carried out some of the alternator checks up to frying my meter, so not checked the diode or B+ Connection yet, do have a good earth though, my fault with the meter left it connected for current measure as i measured the voltage will pick up another 😣
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Old Oct 21st, 2019, 16:17   #16
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Originally Posted by eddieace View Post
Well battery is 7 months old

Alternator is new.

Watched chris fix video and carried out some of the alternator checks up to frying my meter, so not checked the diode or B+ Connection yet, do have a good earth though, my fault with the meter left it connected for current measure as i measured the voltage will pick up another 😣
aorry to heat it's not going great... where did you get alternator?
You may have to cut yr loss and ask a main dealer.,.. ohhhh speaking of which, if you change alternator and has a differnt current rating to standard, you need a software update from dealer..... mismatched current could cause all sorts of problems.....
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Old Oct 21st, 2019, 16:21   #17
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“ohhhh speaking of which, if you change alternator and has a differnt current rating to standard, you need a software update from dealer..... mismatched current could cause all sorts of problems.....“

Aww crap! That might be where the software mismatch has come from then! Gonna go back to older cars 😢 with a choke
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Old Oct 21st, 2019, 17:01   #18
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Originally Posted by eddieace View Post
“ohhhh speaking of which, if you change alternator and has a differnt current rating to standard, you need a software update from dealer..... mismatched current could cause all sorts of problems.....“

Aww crap! That might be where the software mismatch has come from then! Gonna go back to older cars 😢 with a choke
yea when I had the battery issue today I was checking alternator prices on ' Parts for volvos' online and the higher amp rated one stated "the need for a software update at main dealer"... best check specs and part numbers of the new alternator you had fitted before you do anything else



https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=196446

Last edited by lockstock; Oct 21st, 2019 at 17:43.
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Old Oct 21st, 2019, 20:40   #19
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Stop throwing parts at it without a proper diagnosis

You can test the battery with a battery tester: one that puts a proper load on the battery.

The alternators are intelligent, you can run alternator tests in VIDA to check their temperature compensation: and VIDA will also tell you what charge the alternator is putting out

You should have easily 14.0 V at 1000 RPM, mine will hover at 14.4 and drop down to 14.0 as the battery charges up.
Charging voltage at idle will vary, mine will be around 13-ish at an idle of 700 RPM, but remember that the load on the alternator varies according to engine temperature. Only as the engine warms up does the CEM allow the alternator to put out more power at idle. This is to help the engine come up to operating temps.

The lower the temperature, the faster a bad battery dies. And the more the alternator will increase the output voltage to compensate.
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Old Oct 21st, 2019, 21:33   #20
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Picked up a new multimeter, when i measure the current it starts at 1.2 then drops after 30secs to .66 then .12 for 30 secs then 0.00
What's the meter make and model?
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