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C30 / S40 & V50 '04-'12 / C70 '06-'13 General Forum for the P1-platform C30 / S40 / V50 / C70 models |
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Parasitic battery drain V50Views : 2577 Replies : 29Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 19th, 2019, 16:59 | #11 | |
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The current draw of 1.2 Amps (im assuming) is probably correct. On my old VW the alarm and other ancillary draw when normal was under 200mA. So I suggest you reconnect the alarm system, so the same test and see what happens. If the current draw stays after car off and is high, then it confirms faulty alarm or alarm battery issue. often the circuit in the siren goes bad so is more than just swapping battery. If there is no actual paracitic drain, the you are back to a faulty car battery or a short somewhere in the wiring loom. |
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Oct 19th, 2019, 17:07 | #12 |
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Sat in car and 15 minutes have passed, heard a relay click and now those green lights are off,
Little stumped on the sounder as its different to the you tube fixes 😂 This isnt going smoothly |
Oct 21st, 2019, 14:04 | #13 |
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Little update, alarm service message now gone off car still has a dead battery when returning to it overnight, figured I’d give the battery a full charge and maybe try a current draw whilst at work, checked for any codes on the off chance and 2 stored, p0380 glow plug heater circuit A and u0301 software incompatible with ECM/PCM
Erased and restarted car, U0301 returns. Not happy the alternator voltage drops from 14.5 volts to 13.2 (12.8) when electrics are being used. Looking more and more likely it may need a dealer visit. Unless someone has seen this u0301 before. |
Oct 21st, 2019, 14:42 | #14 | |
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Anyway, bought a new bosch s5 battery. PITA to install as my clamp was slightly too small. done though.. Car now running sweet. battery at 12.6. Fyi. with my car running, voltage is 14.6 from alternator. doesn't seem to drop. tried turning on lights, heated seats, aircon etc. sits between 14.5-14.6... It may be that your voltage droping when car is running isn't variable charging it's a failing alternator... I'd try a new battery first though I suspect yr bad battery and possibly bad alternator is causing the other or at least making worse, the other electrical problems. FYI, if you can start car, this is a great video on checking basic alternator issues. including ground and positive continuity https://youtu.be/LGB6ZEjGm7Q also to check alternator diodes. you use the diode check function on multi meter. positive to positive, negative to the case. the swap, should be zero(1) one way, and really high the other way. I |
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Oct 21st, 2019, 16:00 | #15 |
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Well battery is 7 months old
Alternator is new. Watched chris fix video and carried out some of the alternator checks up to frying my meter, so not checked the diode or B+ Connection yet, do have a good earth though, my fault with the meter left it connected for current measure as i measured the voltage will pick up another 😣 |
Oct 21st, 2019, 16:17 | #16 | |
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You may have to cut yr loss and ask a main dealer.,.. ohhhh speaking of which, if you change alternator and has a differnt current rating to standard, you need a software update from dealer..... mismatched current could cause all sorts of problems..... |
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Oct 21st, 2019, 16:21 | #17 |
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“ohhhh speaking of which, if you change alternator and has a differnt current rating to standard, you need a software update from dealer..... mismatched current could cause all sorts of problems.....“
Aww crap! That might be where the software mismatch has come from then! Gonna go back to older cars 😢 with a choke |
Oct 21st, 2019, 17:01 | #18 | |
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https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=196446 Last edited by lockstock; Oct 21st, 2019 at 17:43. |
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Oct 21st, 2019, 20:40 | #19 |
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Stop throwing parts at it without a proper diagnosis
You can test the battery with a battery tester: one that puts a proper load on the battery. The alternators are intelligent, you can run alternator tests in VIDA to check their temperature compensation: and VIDA will also tell you what charge the alternator is putting out You should have easily 14.0 V at 1000 RPM, mine will hover at 14.4 and drop down to 14.0 as the battery charges up. Charging voltage at idle will vary, mine will be around 13-ish at an idle of 700 RPM, but remember that the load on the alternator varies according to engine temperature. Only as the engine warms up does the CEM allow the alternator to put out more power at idle. This is to help the engine come up to operating temps. The lower the temperature, the faster a bad battery dies. And the more the alternator will increase the output voltage to compensate.
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Oct 21st, 2019, 21:33 | #20 |
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What's the meter make and model?
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