head bolt torques - B200K

[timofthomas]

Hi again all - giving this its own thread because the only link I've found was for the turbo 2.3s - does anyone have a manual that tells them the correct torque for the head bolts on the 2 ltr normally aspirated engine please? if so please can you post the torques on here? Thank you. I assume the tightening order is the same as it's the same block just bored out?

[jamies volvo]

according to the Haynes manual,stage 1 is20 nm/15lb/ft.stage 2 is 60nm/44 lb/ft and stage 3 is angle tighten a further 90 degrees.hope this helps

[timofthomas]

an update - I was very pleasantly surprised to discover just how easy it is to prep this engine for a head gasket change - with no manual at all, and experience changing heads on minis, metros, ford escorts and the rover k-series 16v engine, I have to say this is by far the easiest of them all - testament to this is the fact I got as far as everything except the head off with no manual in 2 hours, with no cuts or gashes on my hands - unheard of!

The bad news however is, whoever last disturbed the head has seriously overtightened the bolts. I have broken two extension bars trying to shift them - I used progressive torque to avoid breaking the bolts off in the block but this just twisted the heads off the in the sockets.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a means of getting these bolts out without breaking them please? (or breaking them right below the bolt head so I can use the shaft to extract the rest of the bolt once the engine head is clear of the block?) ideas on a postcard to this thread please

[adamsky01]

Install and tighten screws in three stages in the following order, see illustration.
1.=20 Nm
2.=60 Nm
3.=Angle tighten 90°
Run the engine to operating temperature, approximately 10 minutes.
Then tighten screws in two stages.
1.=90 Nm
2.=Angle tighten 45°

[1stRaven]

Originally Posted by adamsky01

Install and tighten screws in three stages in the following order, see illustration.
1.=20 Nm
2.=60 Nm
3.=Angle tighten 90°
Run the engine to operating temperature, approximately 10 minutes.
Then tighten screws in two stages.
1.=90 Nm
2.=Angle tighten 45°

This is for the early blocks (B**) and not for the B***(ie B200). We made this mistake by following an early green book and ended up snapping a head bolt in the block.

My engine is running 24+psi and has been fine following the first three steps which are the steps listed in the correct green book and the haynes manual.

[adamsky01]

Originally Posted by 1stRaven

This is for the early blocks (B**) and not for the B***(ie B200). We made this mistake by following an early green book and ended up snapping a head bolt in the block.

My engine is running 24+psi and has been fine following the first three steps which are the steps listed in the correct green book and the haynes manual.

u are corect in what u say but u take a look at the vardis for the seting for a b230fk and those are the seting it states so my first gues is this its the original gasket for the car or its last gasket change was done buy the main dealer ethier way u will need to be carfull in removal

[foggyjames]

Different specs seem to say different things. The manuals say one thing, the leaflets with the head bolts say another...etc. The leaflet with an Elring (OEM) HG matches the Haynes manual (20/60/90deg), so I trust that.

The only time I've ever gone wrong involved using the 'solid' bolt procedure on a stretch bolt. Duh! Since then, I've been extra careful...

cheers

James

[philip]

when I did my 200 engine I followed Haynes exactly and had no problem, except on last torque up on last bolt, I felt it start to "Neck" so stopped torquing immediately and just left it.

I snapped bolts off before on a datsun and they went in the block.

I S**t meself but a few persuasions with a screwdriver soon tapped them out as they were loose once tension was released.

I would SERIOUSLY recommend a new set of spiffing volvo bolts on next replacement. Remember these have already been stretched several times and a new set are worth every penny (about £8.00 each i think).

Also put some K-Seal in the rad on top up (Get from ebay). This stuff sorts any hairlie cracks in blocks (Ive had one last 40k) and is great.

I Love head gsakets!!!!!!

[timofthomas]

And finally....

My boss lent me an old 1/2 in drive 4 in extension bar - it's very old and obviously made of tougher stuff than the new ones because with my 1/2 in drive torque wrench and gentle persuasion, all ten bolts eased out and do not appear to even stretch - tbc when I have full daylight and a work lamp rather than a security arc light to work by! (20 mins added to task. I will be taking the pump off this weekend while I have the head off and making the most of it. Job for next month is a new cam belt as this one looks a little aged and is a little too slack for my liking. I'd do it now but pay day is the 13th Feb and I'm skint now after paying £70 for a new gasket set and pump with seals + new tools to replace broken ones. As it's doing ok I'll put it back exactly as it was and then sort it out in three weeks. as it's easy enough to get to.

PS - 150k miles and bores look like new! There is a bit of flakey coke on the top of the pistons but the bores are smooth and shiny with a hint of the original machining marks on them still.

[cumbrianmale]

Is it a round tooth or square tooth cam belt?

I have one in the garage, if it's the right one I could post it to you. Just send me a replacement when you get paid.