Brakes: - Power wires insulation has crumbled away.

Moose850 · Sep 14th, 2020, 23:59

I have to remove the ABS pump on. Any tips particularly when it comes to bleeding system after refit?

Can the plastic cap be removed as I need to fit two new power cables as the insulation has gone brittle and is crumbling off? These cable go up into the black plastic cap.

Cookeh · Sep 15th, 2020, 09:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moose850

I have to remove the ABS pump on. Any tips particularly when it comes to bleeding system after refit?

Can the plastic cap be removed as I need to fit two new power cables as the insulation has gone brittle and is crumbling off? These cable go up into the black plastic cap.

Yes, it can be removed. Easy to remove when the pump is off, a nightmare in car. You can just cut these wires up towards the top end, add heatshrink and solder the join.

Moose850 · Sep 15th, 2020, 11:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cookeh

Yes, it can be removed. Easy to remove when the pump is off, a nightmare in car. You can just cut these wires up towards the top end, add heatshrink and solder the join.

That's good news. Any bleeding issues likey? None is this 'auto-bleed' using OBD scanner I hope like more modern stuff.

I normally start furthest wheel but someone said with Volvo you start nearest?

Cookeh · Sep 15th, 2020, 23:29

No idea, never had to remove a pump - so wouldn't like to comment.

Moose850 · Sep 16th, 2020, 08:36

I removed the three torx screws that hold the unit to its mounting bracket and unclipped the brake pipes on the firewall and it came away from the turret a good few inches without disconnecting brake lines or putting any stress on the brake lines at all. There is a technique to getting the top off - just s queeze inthe right place and a tease with a screwdriver.

The insulation had crumbled off each cable to about 3/4" from the top where they go into the motor so it was a good call to remove the cap, a 'short' would have happened sometime soon. It is obviously an age related problem so a god thing to keep an eye on. I check two other cars of similar age and both showed signs.

Shinsplintz 101 · Sep 16th, 2020, 21:14

I've noticed the same thing on the last couple of pump units I've swapped out - must be the heat of the engine bay, or perhaps the heat generated by the current flowing through them when the pump motor is at full chat? Copious layers of elecrical insulation tape carefully applied also does a fine job if your nervous about cutting the supply cables to apply heatshrink.

Re: bleeding. Start on the O/S/R then N/S/R followed by O/S/F finishing N/S/F. I use a pressurised one man brake bleed kit & purge twice to be on the safe side. Brake fluid is cheap. Brake failure is not 😬.

Happy bleeding. Cheers

Sep 14th, 2020, 23:59	#1
Moose850 Member Last Online: Sep 17th, 2020 14:17 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Norfolk, England.	Power wires insulation has crumbled away. I have to remove the ABS pump on. Any tips particularly when it comes to bleeding system after refit? Can the plastic cap be removed as I need to fit two new power cables as the insulation has gone brittle and is crumbling off? These cable go up into the black plastic cap. __________________ *The Power of the Moose* 850 2.0L 20 valve 2WD Estate 1996. MK1 Escort Twin Cam 1969.

Sep 15th, 2020, 23:29	#4
Cookeh Premier Member Last Online: Sep 14th, 2022 17:04 Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Derbyshire	No idea, never had to remove a pump - so wouldn't like to comment. __________________ 1995 Volvo 850 T5 Estate (Manual)

Sep 16th, 2020, 08:36	#5
Moose850 Member Last Online: Sep 17th, 2020 14:17 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Norfolk, England.	I removed the three torx screws that hold the unit to its mounting bracket and unclipped the brake pipes on the firewall and it came away from the turret a good few inches without disconnecting brake lines or putting any stress on the brake lines at all. There is a technique to getting the top off - just s queeze inthe right place and a tease with a screwdriver. The insulation had crumbled off each cable to about 3/4" from the top where they go into the motor so it was a good call to remove the cap, a 'short' would have happened sometime soon. It is obviously an age related problem so a god thing to keep an eye on. I check two other cars of similar age and both showed signs. __________________ *The Power of the Moose* 850 2.0L 20 valve 2WD Estate 1996. MK1 Escort Twin Cam 1969.

Sep 16th, 2020, 21:14	#6
Shinsplintz 101 Senior Member Last Online: Apr 12th, 2024 22:08 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Baldock View Photos By: Shinsplintz 101	I've noticed the same thing on the last couple of pump units I've swapped out - must be the heat of the engine bay, or perhaps the heat generated by the current flowing through them when the pump motor is at full chat? Copious layers of elecrical insulation tape carefully applied also does a fine job if your nervous about cutting the supply cables to apply heatshrink. Re: bleeding. Start on the O/S/R then N/S/R followed by O/S/F finishing N/S/F. I use a pressurised one man brake bleed kit & purge twice to be on the safe side. Brake fluid is cheap. Brake failure is not 😬. Happy bleeding. Cheers

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