1970 1800E Prop shaft advice sought! - Page 2

sleek lemur · Sep 6th, 2020, 16:48

Thanks Ron. That does make sense. I had avoided the vice for fee of deforming the shaft. Now I have the rear UJ off, it might be possible to to brace the open end in the vice.

And thank you, I have your driveshaft alignment diagram printed out for reference!

142 Guy · Sep 6th, 2020, 17:51

Something to be aware of. This may only apply to the 140; but, I think it also applies to the 1800. When Volvo introduced the B20E, they increased the U joint and driveshaft size. In fact, there are 3 U joint sizes with yoke sizes of 2.75", 3.25" and 3.5". The only uncertainty is what your 1970 1800E received as 1970 appears to have been a transition year in the sizing so the 1800E might have received different sizes if the change was implemented part way through production. The 70 and 71 1800E appear to have the larger 2" driveshaft so should have received the larger U joints; but, that is not absolutely certain. Measure your U joint yoke diameter to make sure that you order the correct U joint. I also seem to recall that all three joints might not be the same size; but, its been 7 years since I fiddled with mine so just check to be sure.

I suggest having your bearings pressed in by someone with a hydraulic press. You can try it with a really large vice or a big truck ball joint press; but, it is easy to mess up.

Finally, given the condition of the one U joint it would probably be prudent to do all three U joints unless you know that the others have already been replaced.

sleek lemur · Sep 6th, 2020, 18:50

Thanks 142. Only the rear UJ is sticky, the other 2 seem fine. No movement and free-swivelling. Have ordered one from Brookhouse, which do have 2 different items, one for B20E and one for F.

No luck with the nut for the central bearing (basically my workbench isn't up to the job, the torque I'm applying is ripping the vice out of the cheap chipboard) , I'm going to have to go to my local engineering shop. I think half the issue is that the nut is so thin.

Groan....I suppose this is "character-building".

Derek UK · Sep 6th, 2020, 22:45

The good thing about Stillson/Pipe Wrenches is that once you have them correctly adjusted the holding force increases as you put more leverage on them. That minimises the chance of slippage. On the shaft, grip it as close as possible to the weld at the end. Best to have a bigger wrench than a smaller one that is been adjusted right out as it will be longer for more leverage.

sleek lemur · Sep 6th, 2020, 22:53

Thanks Derek, but nothing doing. Still stuck fast. Never known anything like it!

c1800 · Sep 7th, 2020, 02:55

As Derek mentioned, use a proper penetrating oil over several days, and apply heat, even a propane torch will suffice.

sleek lemur · Sep 7th, 2020, 16:40

Prop shaft split.jpg

Finally managed to split the shaft. All I needed was a decent vice on a decent bench in the end. I went to Mark Bradley at Spot On Tuning and it was off in a jiffy. Incidentally, Mark tuned my fuel injection and got it working really well. I recommend him. He's in Diss, Norfolk. 07526687575.

When I split the shaft, look what fell out of the tube! The old spring and cup washer.

Brookhouse supplied a UJ for the rear end. All three are the same, incidentally, and Brookhouse's unit came with a grease nipple. Which is nice.

Just awaiting new central bearing and then let's see what I notice when it's back on the car. That rear UJ was pretty-much locked solid, the carrier was v old and non-Volvo and the shaft UJs weren't aligned. So.…anticipation !

Derek UK · Sep 7th, 2020, 23:39

The spring and cup washer has me scratching my head. Do I know what it's for? Looks more like one from a hydraulic cylinder. Remind or enlighten me.

c1800 · Sep 8th, 2020, 03:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Derek UK

The spring and cup washer has me scratching my head. Do I know what it's for? Looks more like one from a hydraulic cylinder. Remind or enlighten me.

Later models have a spring pushing against the donut and the mounting bracket.

sleek lemur · Sep 8th, 2020, 09:14

Yes, the rubber mounting for the centre bearing had obviously been changed in the past as it's a non Volvo part, so it seems that the person who did that stuck the Old spring and cup washer inside the prop tube. Weird. But still not as weird as what someone did with the brake light switch, which had been routed such that if the fuse failed no IGN systems of the car would function.

I guess that over the period of 49 years, there's a lot of time for odd things to happen.

Sep 6th, 2020, 17:51	#12
142 Guy Master Member Last Online: Today 16:19 Join Date: Jul 2020 Location: Saskatchewan, Canada	Something to be aware of. This may only apply to the 140; but, I think it also applies to the 1800. When Volvo introduced the B20E, they increased the U joint and driveshaft size. In fact, there are 3 U joint sizes with yoke sizes of 2.75", 3.25" and 3.5". The only uncertainty is what your 1970 1800E received as 1970 appears to have been a transition year in the sizing so the 1800E might have received different sizes if the change was implemented part way through production. The 70 and 71 1800E appear to have the larger 2" driveshaft so should have received the larger U joints; but, that is not absolutely certain. Measure your U joint yoke diameter to make sure that you order the correct U joint. I also seem to recall that all three joints might not be the same size; but, its been 7 years since I fiddled with mine so just check to be sure. I suggest having your bearings pressed in by someone with a hydraulic press. You can try it with a really large vice or a big truck ball joint press; but, it is easy to mess up. Finally, given the condition of the one U joint it would probably be prudent to do all three U joints unless you know that the others have already been replaced. Last edited by 142 Guy; Sep 6th, 2020 at 17:55.

Sep 7th, 2020, 16:40	#17
sleek lemur Senior Member Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 11:47 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Thorndon, near Eye, Suffolk, England	Look what I found! Prop shaft split.jpg Finally managed to split the shaft. All I needed was a decent vice on a decent bench in the end. I went to Mark Bradley at Spot On Tuning and it was off in a jiffy. Incidentally, Mark tuned my fuel injection and got it working really well. I recommend him. He's in Diss, Norfolk. 07526687575. When I split the shaft, look what fell out of the tube! The old spring and cup washer. Brookhouse supplied a UJ for the rear end. All three are the same, incidentally, and Brookhouse's unit came with a grease nipple. Which is nice. Just awaiting new central bearing and then let's see what I notice when it's back on the car. That rear UJ was pretty-much locked solid, the carrier was v old and non-Volvo and the shaft UJs weren't aligned. So.…anticipation !

Sep 6th, 2020, 16:48	#11
sleek lemur Senior Member Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 11:47 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Thorndon, near Eye, Suffolk, England	Thanks Ron. That does make sense. I had avoided the vice for fee of deforming the shaft. Now I have the rear UJ off, it might be possible to to brace the open end in the vice. And thank you, I have your driveshaft alignment diagram printed out for reference!

Sep 6th, 2020, 18:50	#13
sleek lemur Senior Member Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 11:47 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Thorndon, near Eye, Suffolk, England	Thanks 142. Only the rear UJ is sticky, the other 2 seem fine. No movement and free-swivelling. Have ordered one from Brookhouse, which do have 2 different items, one for B20E and one for F. No luck with the nut for the central bearing (basically my workbench isn't up to the job, the torque I'm applying is ripping the vice out of the cheap chipboard) , I'm going to have to go to my local engineering shop. I think half the issue is that the nut is so thin. Groan....I suppose this is "character-building".

Sep 6th, 2020, 22:45	#14
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 15:54 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	The good thing about Stillson/Pipe Wrenches is that once you have them correctly adjusted the holding force increases as you put more leverage on them. That minimises the chance of slippage. On the shaft, grip it as close as possible to the weld at the end. Best to have a bigger wrench than a smaller one that is been adjusted right out as it will be longer for more leverage.

Sep 6th, 2020, 22:53	#15
sleek lemur Senior Member Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 11:47 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Thorndon, near Eye, Suffolk, England	Thanks Derek, but nothing doing. Still stuck fast. Never known anything like it!

Sep 7th, 2020, 02:55	#16
c1800 Master Member Last Online: Apr 22nd, 2024 18:48 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Alberta	As Derek mentioned, use a proper penetrating oil over several days, and apply heat, even a propane torch will suffice.

Sep 7th, 2020, 23:39	#18
Derek UK VOC Member Last Online: Today 15:54 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Chatham	The spring and cup washer has me scratching my head. Do I know what it's for? Looks more like one from a hydraulic cylinder. Remind or enlighten me.

Sep 8th, 2020, 09:14	#20
sleek lemur Senior Member Last Online: Dec 29th, 2022 11:47 Join Date: Jun 2019 Location: Thorndon, near Eye, Suffolk, England	Yes, the rubber mounting for the centre bearing had obviously been changed in the past as it's a non Volvo part, so it seems that the person who did that stuck the Old spring and cup washer inside the prop tube. Weird. But still not as weird as what someone did with the brake light switch, which had been routed such that if the fuse failed no IGN systems of the car would function. I guess that over the period of 49 years, there's a lot of time for odd things to happen.

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